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New wheel studs and pulling rear hub


Talkwrench

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Guys how hard is it to pull the rear hubs? Seems like there is two 1/4" nf holes do you just use a standard puller? Are they on a taper and key like an early Ford?  How much torque is it to do them up?
I want to replace the wheel studs for larger ones as I lost 3 wheels studs at over 65 mph and it was a bit scary.. Can someone suggest where I might buy the studs? Also I need to use those stupid sleeve nuts ( for mags) to go with.. Cheers.

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To pull the hubs you MUST use the Churchill tool, buy/borrow one or findsdomebody to do it for you. Trying almost an other tool will bend the hub.
The 2 holes are probably the ones that are meant for the drum retaining scrtews?

If you just want to put bigger studs in, the origals will knock out OK, but you can drill a hole in the backplate to fit the larger studs, blank with a grommit after.
I used foird 12mm studs, but I believe the freelander versions are a better fit. Available lots of places. EBay?

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1953 wrote:
You don't even have to drill the back plate, remove the brake parts & there is enough room to knock out & install the studs. Use an old wheel nut to pull them through. This is what I did on Rarebits Bill's recommendation.


This is true for the standard studs only.  Anything else will need a hole drilling in the backplate.  Drilling a hole is best done from the back and will be less aggro than removing (or trying to remove) the hub.

Assuming you can get suitable sleeve nuts with M12 threads  (size of holes in the slot mags may prevent this) then Freelander studs are a very good solution.  Otherwise 7/16" UNF as used on TR7 /later Dolly Sprint will probably do it.

Nick

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Ok well maybe I'll go down that path. SO you just knock them out [one is loose already] when you put them in from the back is it then just left up to doing up the wheel nuts to press them in. Thought it would have taken more than that..?
Front you just remove the disc and pull apart , no probs there , I have a press for that side of it?

Yes I will have to double check the sleeve nuts available, nothing worse than doing all that and finding nothing will fit ..pft!
Is there any particular pitch on those M12's  [freelander]?

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Grayston engineering do a wide variety of nuts and adapters to suit most wheels.
Not available direct from them (I have tried!) but they will point you to local suppliers, who then get them in.
http://www.grayston.biz/wheelnutmenu.htm

and freelander/ford/mgf etc are 12x1.5, very common.

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Maybe you can pull the backing plate away? Might use a stepper drill and drill the hole if required.. Found a place online in the UK, some 4x4 shop that sells the studs for $13.75 AUD for 5 so I sent an email to see what price they could do 16 for. I think I have found the right sleeve nuts here in Oz for $45 inc the washers plus shipping.. SO getting somewhere.. Attached is the result of my flogging the red devil.. think it was the sideways around the roundabout that did the damage  ; o P

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piman wrote:
Hello Talkwrench,

carefully inspect the rear of the wheel to ensure that it goes over the raised centre of the hub, and seats firmly onto the brake drum. That was the reason I broke a couple of studs on my car.

Alec


Alec is correct. When I fitted MGF rims to my Spit I turned about 20 thou off the hubs, wheel was too tight. Only turned the outer bit so as to leave the brake drum centred. (Hope this makes sense) Mind you I had the hubs off  ;D Maybe your rims are ok.
Tony.

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9016 wrote:
Ok nice and simple.. Now could I trouble someone that's put a hole in the backing plate to take a picture of where it was done... Im looking and I don't quite get where the hole should be drilled there a ridge in line where the studs are ?


Right next to the flange, at 3 or 9. You may be able to get away with it being slightly away from it but mine are a little bit longer than the long studs so I haven't got a lot of wiggle room.

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just to add , the front ones depending on the size of the forged head can in some cases pitch on the machined register on the back of the hub, simple to file or grind a small chamfered relief to keep t clear or the stud will be pitched at an angle,

when you split the discs off make sure the hub and disc mating surfaces are clean and 'flat' or you will likely  get some disc runout

Pete

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Look at the size difference in the studs! Just doing the front at the mo'.   what is up with the dust cover for the hub nut, what bright spark came up with the idea of not putting a lip on it so you can get it off, Bashing, crashing, punching it around I finally got it removed I think I wasted half the time just trying to get that simple part off... Pfft! unbelievable.. Anyway one wheel is done phew...

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