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1500 clutch replacement


Moorzee

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As above, gearbox tunnel out, and I usually pull one seat(passenger) too.
Undo clutch slave from bellhousing (keep it connected to hydraulics) and tie away to one side.
Undo the 4 prop bolts, speedo cable, and teh gearbox rear mounts. If OD you have to get under the car I think.

Remove starter motor. Now I put a jack under the back of the sump (wood to spread load)and lift so the rear gearbox mount is just lifted a touch.
Undo all the bellhousing bolts. Top couple last. You then tussle the gearbox out. May need a bit more lift under he sump, no hard and fast rules.

On a 1500 the clutch is held in place by allen head bolts. And you need to make sure the clutch plate is aligned perfectly as you do teh new one up. I use an old input shaft, or you can buy/beg/steal/make one. If this is not correct the gearbox will not go back on.

when refitting the gearbox is may be useful to have some longish studs 100mm?? fitted to the normal stud positions at the top. These can be used to guide teh box in. I also use bits of wood and a metal bar to help lift the box around once roughly in place. Check the clutch arm is sticking out the bellhousing in the correct position! otherwise you will be taking the box off again.

Worth fitting new clutch arm washers etc etc and I would fit a new pin that can not fall out.

As to clutch make, for me the best seems to be proper old stock Borg and Beck.

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and when refitting use a bit of wood as a eyesight gauge to make sure you have engine jacked and the gap between hsg and back plate
is parallel down both sides , its easy to think it looks square but ...its not and the last 1" proves a fight to the end
the studs and square on makes for an easy slide on

Pete

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