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crankshaft pulley nut


bill4brickwork

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1 & 7/8" and no not a hope.  The tightening torque is 150 ft/lb so you'll need more than this to undo it, that is far more than the fittest of engines can deliver so drivetrain damage is likely.  

Starter off and screwdriver in the ring gear.  I used to use a 3/4" knuckle bar 2' long but a particularly stubborn example recently required an upgrade to 1" drive a full meter long.  You're welcome to borrow it if you're local to me. (Horley/Gatwick)

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we use a battery 1/2" drive impact wrench    its off in blink
in engineering terms 150lbs ft is not that monumental , about double what you can comfortably achieve with a 1/2 ratchet ,  so a breaker bar should work providing the flywheel is locked as has been  suggested

Pete

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hi thanks for the replies. i have been looking at the clark electric impact wrenches in machine mart. they do one for £65 quid with fairly good reviews. may even wait for one of their vat free days, rather go down this route then cause damage.will i still need to wedge something in the starter ring? thanks again

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6155 wrote:
will i still need to wedge something in the starter ring? thanks again


No. Impact wrench will remove it simply and easily. There's another thread on this somewhere advocating all sorts of sockets and bars / engine starts / mother-in-law standing on a twenty food extension bar while gangs of natives rock the car backwards and forwards but i'll still go for the impact wrench every time.
The pic shows a huge screwdriver that I used to jam the engine on a Spitfire 1500 - you can see how much force was used and STILL the nut didn't undo. The impact wrench removed it in thirty seconds.



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1/2" Electric rechargeable impact wrench. 24 volt - £80 off ebay delivered. Included 2 batts as well.
This has proved invaluable over the last 2-3 years and has also made me popular with the neighbors and distant family members lol

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peterhlewis wrote:

in engineering terms 150lbs ft is not that monumental ,


I came across a Torque Wrench calibrator recently, it seems to be for up to at least 2500lb/ft

so 150 is nothing (and would barely make the needle move! )

How long would the handle have to be to do something up to 2000lb/ft???

Mmmmmmm

:-)

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thescrapman wrote:


I came across a Torque Wrench calibrator recently, it seems to be for up to at least 2500lb/ft

so 150 is nothing (and would barely make the needle move! )

How long would the handle have to be to do something up to 2000lb/ft???

Mmmmmmm

:-)


I had a couple of pictures that I had taken onboard my last ship of some torque wrenches, unfortunately due to my HDD failing I lost them.

I can't recall off-hand what ratings the wrenches were, however we had three 'larger' wrenches (as in all bigger than the standard 1/2" drive you normally see), The smaller one was approx 1m (3ft) long, the next was about 5ft, and the longest one would have been about 9ft long. Not only that, we had an extension that fitted onto the end of the wrenches that was 6ft long, which I was informed by the Chief Engineer was needed to even think about using the long wrench at the higher torques (and this was with two or three guys pulling/pushing the damn thing!!)

Only prob was, the bolts that are tightened that high don't have the access space to use the wrenches!! LOL.

To be fair, most items on the ship that are torqued to that level are engine related (cylinder covers/cyl heads, tie bolts etc etc), and you very rarely use a torque wrench on them, instead we use a hydraulic tightener, and tighten to a pressure instead. An exhaust valve on the main engine may be  tightened up to 1000bar!! Now what kinda length wrench you reckon would be needed to loosen that!!!!

Cheers,

Phil

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Hey Phil,
I did my engineering apprenticeship at Mirrlees Blackstone. Have you ever worked on any of those?
I remember being awestruck on my first visit to the test shop and watching two guys climbing to the (individually turbo-charged) cylinder heads on a set of two piece ladders, on full extension.
I now work at Perkins, even on the tiny 400 series 2.2 litre engines, they use a 1.3 metre torque wrench to do the crank pulley nut. That's only if the Georges Renault electric wrench breaks down though.

Steve.

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1790 wrote:
Hey Phil,
I did my engineering apprenticeship at Mirrlees Blackstone. Have you ever worked on any of those?
I remember being awestruck on my first visit to the test shop and watching two guys climbing to the (individually turbo-charged) cylinder heads on a set of two piece ladders, on full extension.
I now work at Perkins, even on the tiny 400 series 2.2 litre engines, they use a 1.3 metre torque wrench to do the crank pulley nut. That's only if the Georges Renault electric wrench breaks down though.

Steve.


Fraid not, so far I have only come across MAN B&W S series engines and Holeby Gensets. I am just in the final throes of my 'apprenticeship' (they call us cadets in the Merchant Navy, which is  really the same thing) so no doubt when I start working properly I may well come across a Mirrlees engine.

Owned by MAN B&W now anyway, for the larger two-stroke engines there are only really two manufacturers left, MAN B&W and Wartsila, as far as I can tell they own everybody else between them!!

I was similarly awestruck when we did a complete overhaul on one unit of the main engine and I was tasked with wiping the cylinder wall down (only myself and the 1st Engineer were thin enough to fit, and a cadet is WAY below a 1/E in pecking order :-/ ). It was only once I had climbed inside I realised the sheer size of the thing, I could stand comfortably inside the bore,  and my head was not even poking out the top! It had a 50cm bore and a 2m stroke.
I don't think we had a crankshaft pulley nut on this engine ;)

Cheers,

Phil

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