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2000MKI: camshaft questions


popeye

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Hello there,
I am starting the inspection before to rebuild my early 2000MKI engine.
It is in quite condition and completely standard. There is only one part modified: the inlet manifold has been opened on a bench. the exhaust is the standard one (and would prefer to stay with it: the budget doesn't allow the CW manifolds :-( )

I am wondering if it would be a good thing to change the camshaft to have a little more "punch" (not a screamer) ... I know on small four cylinder engine the early and late 18/58 are often replaced by the MKIII camshaft 25/65 ...

Would it be interesting for me to use:
-  "307689"/150  (TR5& 6 early CP) 35/65 with 0.25 lift
-  "308778"   ( vitesse+GT6+ 2.5PIMKI & MKII) 25/65 with 0.232 lift
- "311399"/125   (TR6CR+2.5PIMKII) 18/58  with 0.240 lift

The original MKI is "306632"   18/58   with 0.220 lift  (quite similar to 306785).

"307621" seems to be less interesting : 10/50 with 0.215 lift


All your comments are more than welcome !  Thanks a lot !!

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From what I remember on my early Mk1, in early 1990s to the engine I simply:

Flowed the carbs and manifold.
Fitted a 6-2-1 (SAH?) manifold and CW sports exhaust.
Fitted a 1964 Lucas alternator kit (was NEW and boxed!)
Sports coil and competition (black yellow) copper plug leads.
Very carefully set up the ignition timing.
Very carefully set up the 150 Strommies

While not much it was enough to give the engine a nice little extra poke.  Plans to do the works to the engine (flow the head, Webers, cam, full balance and tuftride cam etc.) were on the cards when I took the car off the road ........ in 1997!

MUT

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Richard_B wrote:
Agree with Nick, the GT6 MkII had that cam on 150CD strombergs.


I was just told by folks on here if you do the carbs -cam and exhaust it makes the early engine quite poky and revy
I know Radders only changed to cam to a "pi" one and just by doing that it was a major improvement on a otherwise standard engine 😊

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1344 wrote:


I was just told by folks on here if you do the carbs -cam and exhaust it makes the early engine quite poky and revy
I know Radders only changed to cam to a "pi" one and just by doing that it was a major improvement on a otherwise standard engine 😊


Now owning said engine, it certainly goes very nicely indeed, however caveat to this, Radders also stated that engine had no right to go as well as it does, so that level of increase might be a one off!! (Might not be though.....)

I also intend to install an electronic ignition, have heard that can make quite a difference. Ultimately I will go EFI route, but I intend to try the SimonBBC ignition to start, he has some good reviews on here.

Recap - I have standard engine (AFAIK) with "pi" cam and standard everything else. Carbs have been tuned to cam (different needle I think?). Check out this vid to see how she goes! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IK8xiN-rjY

Cheers,

Phil

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1526 wrote:
From what I remember on my early Mk1, in early 1990s to the engine I simply:

Flowed the carbs and manifold.
Fitted a 6-2-1 (SAH?) manifold and CW sports exhaust.
Fitted a 1964 Lucas alternator kit (was NEW and boxed!)
Sports coil and competition (black yellow) copper plug leads.
Very carefully set up the ignition timing.
Very carefully set up the 150 Strommies

While not much it was enough to give the engine a nice little extra poke.  Plans to do the works to the engine (flow the head, Webers, cam, full balance and tuftride cam etc.) were on the cards when I took the car off the road ........ in 1997!

MUT



This is very close to the setup I have on my Mk1 Vitesse, and it works pretty good.

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The 175 strombergs are a reasonable cheap upgrade as the TR boys don't value them. Put a wanted add the TR register forum and you'll probably pick some up for £25.00. They make a noticeable difference throughout the range but only if you fit ram pipes, open up your manifold and affix with just two studs, standard TR4 needles work fine. slight difference in the body between TR4 and TR4A but nothing to get hung up about. Also open up the restrictions between 2 & 5. You don't need a flow meter just grind away until it looks right. Or you can always give it to a machine shop to sort. The carb bolt holes need elongating as well.

The front carb ram pipe will touch the strut housing if you give it beans on standard engine mounts, but if you fit vibra tech mounts and/or cant the engine over it will clear just clear. Use a bit of loose easy breath foam and mesh to make up a custom filter.

Sounds awesome.

Dazzer

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Many thanks to all of you for your help and comments.

I had been Lucky to find a NOS "PI" cam here for nearly nothing ! I still have the inlet manifold has been flowed on a bench. Of course, I like the big cd175 ... but i don't think it is a benefit setting with the standard exhaust manifold ...

It seems the perios 6/3/2 exhaust are quite rare ...

The period SAH conversion was great !

My goal is just to keep the engine as original as possible and as I am rebuilding it: to try to build a long life lasting one, smooth and not too thirsty... Gently drove

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