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13/60 crankshaft bolts


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Have just had to strip my 13/60 engine due to a complete and sudden seize.  Reversed car out the garage , drove 100 meters and the engine completely locked.     Any way went through the suspects and stripped the engine down to find that the rear thrust washer was scoured , thin and had slightly twistwd locking up the crankshaft.

HAs any body had this problem?    The other bearings , big ends all look very good and obviously beeen worked on with not alot of miles since.

The main reason for this thread is that there were no locking washers or tabs on the bolts for the mains or big ends. The 1360 spare parts book doesn't seem to show any but the workshop manual that covers 1200 models up shows them?

Can any body clarify if it needs tab washers or just relying on the correct torgue.?

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if you look under the flywheel bolts they are washer faced , some have added washers and foiuld the clutch plate damper hub

you dont need them ,

general practice on B ends is to always use new as if torqued to yield  they wont take a second  life

if the thruster has wrecked the locations on the main bearing cap you can weld and fettle some new ones ,  the crank will need a metal  spray and a face grind  ....or scrapping   so can be successfully be reclaimed if desperate    pete

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measured the main bearings last night and the Thrust washers to find the offending scoured one was down to .061 where as standard they are .091 /.093,   Will need to have crank ground smooth where they face the washers.

Questions , when they state the washers are OS by .005 presume both washers are .oo5 so that the total is .010 actually.  If this makes sense.  Gap on the crankshaft at present is within toleranes, measured last night.  ( alawys good to have good mate who is gearbox engineer)  even though 1 face has ridges. To remove ridges was going to get crank ground .005 on each face.  Then use standard + .oo5 washers.

Does the logic seem correct.?

Thanks everybody for their help.

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