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Small crank engine in a 1500


Taylor bright

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Well my spitfire 1500 engine has started to knock at anything over 2000rpm (only about 10hrs of use after its rebuild last year won't be letting them touch an engine of mine again after all the hassle) and I have a spare small crank engine from a herald in good nick my question is can I just dump the engine in and use all the ancillaries from the 1500 like the intake, exhaust, distributor alternator and the such and will it mate to 1500s gearbox clutch and flywheel 

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It will all fit (may need a different fan belt, but hardly a serious issue)

Flywheel will need some collars fitting as the bolts on the herald engine are smaller. I am trying to remember  what the source of the collars is. An engine part I think? Somebody will know! Alternatively use the herald flywheel and clutch cover with a dolomite 1300 clutch plate. A lighter setup....

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Rimmer Bros (and probably others) sell sets of bolt collars for this purpose.  I remember making some from a random bit of tube that happened to be the right size and that worked.

Everything else should fit though I dunno how the carb needles will play with a 13/60 engine.....

May be a bit lethargic with the 1500 diff but should move at least.

Nick

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Flywheel not a big issue, it will just pick up a little quicker.

How far do you want to go with the 1300? Best is a spitfire head and mk3 camshaft, but check journal size. 

You may be better off having another look at the 1500 engine. What was wrong initially, and what was done? Sounds like BE bearings and/or oil pressure.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I'm taking the 1500 engine out of the car Saturday so I can begin the process of putting the 1300 in (need it's clutch and flywheel) I intend on doing a fast rebuild on it before hand what's the best things to do to give it as much poke as the 1500 had, just balance it so it revs smoother and a hotter cam would that bring the performance inline with the old 1500

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That is odd....

Back to making a 1300 go well. In my experience, a 1300 will lack the torque of the 1500, which is more important than the power figures on paper. To make a 1300 go well it needs a decent cam and compression ratio to match. And distributor with the correct curve. MK3 is the best factory option.

The engine in our mk3 is very quick, I didn't build it and I don't know who did the headwork. But I reckon it will put a STD gt6 to shame. Probably serious money to replicate, but I would think a decent cam, compression and exhaust manifold, along with reprofiled carb needles, would see nice gains. Ours runs megajolt, and I believe the advance curve is heavily tweeted. Makes the cam feel sensible for town driving, but bury the throttle and it flies. Still returns 40mpg on a motorway at speeds you won't get points for...

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Hi Colin, yes that was the conrod eating it's way through the oil pump, no damage on the conrod or bolt though which is odd, the sump had all the bearing material in it however, and Clive that is very interesting do you happen to know how much I can mill off the top of the head 

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I may have some info at home, but depending on what head you start with (one with the biggest valves!) And if you modify the chambers. Certainly a bit of porting will help, matching to the manifold gasket etc. Then you choose your cam, my advice is be cautious, very easy to go too wild and make the car hopeless unless it is being thrashed. 

Then find what cr you need, and measure the head chamber volumes with a burette or even syringe. Plenty of guides on how to do that.

But be aware, you are going down a dangerous path! The costs snowball quickly, and there are rarely shortcuts.

Back to the start of this post. On hols essentially until 9th July (home for a few hectic days between family hols and clm, but don't expect any sense from me)

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