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Posted

Hi all
another question for you all.

The head was a nightmare to get off, i honestly thought someone had welded it on!! but i won!!
managed to use the double nut method to get 3 of the bolts out with the head on, but the others wouldnt budge.

the head is now off and gone to have the valve seats done.clean up.

I want to get the studs out of the block. any ideas how, seen some stud extractors but many different types and different opinions on which ones work.

any thoughts, if i have to spend some money to get them off, i will grudgingly but not sure i will ever use the tool again. but if anyone has any cheaper alternatives would be great.

Thanks tim.

Posted

Hello Tim,

with the head off, you can put some plus gas down the threads of the remaining studs. The double nut should work as well as a stud extractor, just use the cylinder head nuts and tighten them up very tight (There is not really enough thread on the studs with the head in place for that method to work well). Use the bottom nut to unscrew the stud.

Alec

Posted

If it was me................Use a pair of Stillsons ,remove studs easily and then fit new studs with new nuts and washers
That ensures being able to tighten down effectively with stripping old stud threads with new nuts
No sense in replacing the head using old hardware

Posted

I'd recommend replacing the studs anyway, as the previous torquing and subsequent removal will have weakened them slightly. The last thing you want it a stud shearing off as you re-torque it - then you really WILL have problems!

Posted

piman wrote:
Hello V.R.,

that's a bit extravagant for a road engine, if there's no sign of damage, why renew them?

Alec


No sign of damage is not necessarily the problem
The problem could be with previous owners over torquing and the possibility of thread stretch
I have fitted new nuts on to old studs before now and the threads have stripped
For the sake of a few quid and having to possibly re do the whole job again it may be wise to change the whole lot

Posted

michael_charlton wrote:
If it was me................Use a pair of Stillsons ,remove studs easily and then fit new studs with new nuts and washers
That ensures being able to tighten down effectively with stripping old stud threads with new nuts
No sense in replacing the head using old hardware


given the horror stories that have done the rounds re the remanufactured studs on the market nowadays, I would re-use a decent original everytime   :-/

Posted

thanks guys

the double nut method worked, obviously needed a few weeks for the penetrating oil to soak in. going to replace them and at least half have visible damage to the threads and few have pitting on the shank itself. would explain why it was such a git to get off in the first place.

onto to the next challange.

tim.

Posted

I've spent decades harvesting bits from various Triumphs I have broken, harking back to the time when there was no chance of a replacement part coming from China . . . . .    :)

Posted

Ive used a chuck type extractor for years , takes an inpact wrench, removes anything you get stuck with.
ideal for refitting studs also.

on any of our heads please examine the washers and nuts for any deformation,
canley and others sell HD nuts and washers  , std nuts will not take the torque and the initial fitting torque will be lost and the gasket fails again.

Pete

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