timireson Posted October 30, 2013 Posted October 30, 2013 Hi allanother question for you all.The head was a nightmare to get off, i honestly thought someone had welded it on!! but i won!! managed to use the double nut method to get 3 of the bolts out with the head on, but the others wouldnt budge.the head is now off and gone to have the valve seats done.clean up. I want to get the studs out of the block. any ideas how, seen some stud extractors but many different types and different opinions on which ones work. any thoughts, if i have to spend some money to get them off, i will grudgingly but not sure i will ever use the tool again. but if anyone has any cheaper alternatives would be great. Thanks tim. Quote
junkuser Posted October 30, 2013 Posted October 30, 2013 Tapping on the top end of the studs sometimes helps freeing them, so worth a try as a starting point. Quote
piman Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 Hello Tim, with the head off, you can put some plus gas down the threads of the remaining studs. The double nut should work as well as a stud extractor, just use the cylinder head nuts and tighten them up very tight (There is not really enough thread on the studs with the head in place for that method to work well). Use the bottom nut to unscrew the stud.Alec Quote
Velocita Rosso Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 If it was me................Use a pair of Stillsons ,remove studs easily and then fit new studs with new nuts and washersThat ensures being able to tighten down effectively with stripping old stud threads with new nuts No sense in replacing the head using old hardware Quote
piman Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 Hello V.R., that's a bit extravagant for a road engine, if there's no sign of damage, why renew them?Alec Quote
ferny Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 Because the Stilsons won't leave them in a particularly nice state. Quote
piman Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 Hello Ferny, but I wouldn't use them.Alec Quote
Rumpith Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 I'd recommend replacing the studs anyway, as the previous torquing and subsequent removal will have weakened them slightly. The last thing you want it a stud shearing off as you re-torque it - then you really WILL have problems! Quote
Velocita Rosso Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 piman wrote:Hello V.R., that's a bit extravagant for a road engine, if there's no sign of damage, why renew them?AlecNo sign of damage is not necessarily the problem The problem could be with previous owners over torquing and the possibility of thread stretchI have fitted new nuts on to old studs before now and the threads have strippedFor the sake of a few quid and having to possibly re do the whole job again it may be wise to change the whole lot Quote
Deleted User Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 Stud remover. A decent one http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stud-Extractor-Remover-Set-6-8-10-12mm-manifold-exhaust-Stud-Extracting-Remover-/150999676976 and replace old with new.I have a set like the ones listed and never had a problem removing problem bolts or studsRob Quote
Richard B Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 Thats the type I use, however if the head is off, Stilsons (aka Monkey Wrench) should suffice. Quote
mikeyb Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 michael_charlton wrote:If it was me................Use a pair of Stillsons ,remove studs easily and then fit new studs with new nuts and washersThat ensures being able to tighten down effectively with stripping old stud threads with new nuts No sense in replacing the head using old hardwaregiven the horror stories that have done the rounds re the remanufactured studs on the market nowadays, I would re-use a decent original everytime :-/ Quote
timireson Posted October 31, 2013 Author Posted October 31, 2013 thanks guysthe double nut method worked, obviously needed a few weeks for the penetrating oil to soak in. going to replace them and at least half have visible damage to the threads and few have pitting on the shank itself. would explain why it was such a git to get off in the first place. onto to the next challange. tim. Quote
Velocita Rosso Posted October 31, 2013 Posted October 31, 2013 MikeyB wrote:given the horror stories that have done the rounds re the remanufactured studs on the market nowadays, I would re-use a decent original everytime :-/...but how do you know when they are original?(think) Quote
mikeyb Posted November 1, 2013 Posted November 1, 2013 I've spent decades harvesting bits from various Triumphs I have broken, harking back to the time when there was no chance of a replacement part coming from China . . . . . :) Quote
Pete Lewis Posted November 1, 2013 Posted November 1, 2013 Ive used a chuck type extractor for years , takes an inpact wrench, removes anything you get stuck with.ideal for refitting studs also.on any of our heads please examine the washers and nuts for any deformation, canley and others sell HD nuts and washers , std nuts will not take the torque and the initial fitting torque will be lost and the gasket fails again.Pete Quote
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