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Engine Rattle after a break down


jc5515

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Good evening all,

Yet again, after only a month and a bit of ownership - my 1500 has broken down for a third time.

We were out on the roads and then she started to cut out - I determined it was probably a fuel problem since the fuel gauge seemed to be higher then than it was when I set off. So, and walking to a petrol station to get a jerry can, I topped her up with some super unleaded fuel and off we went.

HOWEVER -  there is a brand new sound to the mix. A hideous rattle that seems to be stemming from the inside of the engine. Higher up (opposed to down in the bowels).

I don't know much about the engine other than I am the first frequent user in about 20 odd years, it isn't converted to unleaded and it seems to leak oil here and there (but not at a scary rate). She seemed to struggle to idle and will rattle a bit and eventually cut out so I had planned to tidy up the carbs over this weekend, but now it doesn't seem so bad? Also... maybe totally unrelated, but normally, even before this, when I turned it off she would seem to shake violently to a stop. Sorry if these are all simple questions.

I must admit... normally I would love this sort of thing. It would give me a project and a challenge to work on. But today... it got a little dangerous as I was in the middle of a cross road on a ring road in town. Luckily, it was quite busy and I was pushed to safety... but... it has... rattled me a little. To the extent where I just really wanted just to get to A to B (a 5 minute drive) without wasting my entire evening. Sorry... like I said... I am a bit rattled.

I fear this will be an expensive fix, and if it is... I'm not sure how much of the road she is going to see this year.  

Anyway... if anyone has any ideas as to where to start (I am a bit of a newbie at this) please please please let me know.

Thanks in advance!

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could be fuel vapour locking considering the temperature today.

that will cause it to run very lean and give pinking,but you say it hasn't really been used for 20 years so it could be something else and just coincidental with the weather.

rust in the tank is normally a good culprit blocking the fuel pipe.

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Guys,

Thank you SO much for a quick reply - it has already put my mind at ease.

esxefi - is there any particular method or feature to get rid of fuel vapour locking in the future? And is there a hard and fast way to get the rust in the pipes... or just... pull 'em apart and inspect?

Thanks once again guys.

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well I would check the simplest first like the coolant temp and timing as above,rad could be silted up a bit.

only way to prevent vapour lock is insulating pipes and carbs from excess heat of the engine and/or rerouting pipes.(there are a few threads on the forum about it,type it into the search facility,should find something)

rust in the tank.

tank out is best but, good flush,and blow through pipes or pump some petrol down them to ensure they are clear.

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Add to Pauls bit above,  get some fuel filters in the line,
and get em so there one feeding each carb. and pref one befoer the ump, so nee sheite gets into it.

Slow traffic, high under bonnet heat, lack of air flow thru engine bay,
nee bonnet vents,  it all adds up
plus modern fuel boils sooner than the olde stuff did., which dont help

My self, when ever im coming to traffic, or think im gonna be held up,
the fan is switched on, as it pushes the under bonnet heat out when there nee air flow coming thru  front grill. works fine for me,

M

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Quoted from Mark Hammond
  Can't see why a distributor would move on its own.

Mark


The flimsy clamp that holds the dizzy in place are just that.
They can slip and allow dizzy movement
We rebuilt the whole engine last month from bigends up and set the timing
By the time I had done 200 yards the car was running like a bag of spanners
The dizzy had spun way out place....it took three attempts to get the  clamp to fix properly
So it can happen with these dizzy clamps

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Quoted from Velocita Rosso


The flimsy clamp that holds the dizzy in place are just that.
They can slip and allow dizzy movement
We rebuilt the whole engine last month from bigends up and set the timing
By the time I had done 200 yards the car was running like a bag of spanners
The dizzy had spun way out place....it took three attempts to get the  clamp to fix properly
So it can happen with these dizzy clamps


Had problems with my timing also.. setting it and after 2 days it was off again.
If i got the clamp as tight as i could i could turn the dizzy by hand (if i turned it very hard..)
Clamp of my spare engine fixed it 🙂

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Maybe after running low on fuel one of the carbs has sucked up some crud and blocked the main jet or blocked the needle valve for the float.
I would start by running the engine and carefully remove a front plug cap then a rear plug cap one at time momentarily (don't give yourself a shock, insulate yourself). If it makes no difference to the running it's not firing on all cylinders and will indicate which carb may be blocked. It could also show up an ignition fault. Rule out the simple things first.
  

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All above comments are worth considering. You say you are the first to frequently use the car in 20 years.  I would start be giving it a complete service. get the tappets plugs and points adjusted and the timing checked. Check for crap in the float bowls.  The engine may have last been tuned when using 4 star petrol.

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As per usual, fantastic responses from everyone.

Thank you so much for the information.

I have a fair pit of work to do on the Spit, so I will follow the suggestions given and report back. Along with upgrading to Canleys trunnion-less conversion and SimonBBC electronic ignition... I think I have a fair bit to do!

Thanks once again guys!

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