bob dunn Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 I am fitting a dolly engine in my mkiv spit any words of wisdom would be welcome.
bob dunn Posted February 16, 2012 Author Posted February 16, 2012 How much can you bore them out and does it help.
Toledo Man Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 What size engine are you fitting? The 1500 engine is basically the same for the Spit & the Dolly. The 1300/1500 block can't be bored out any more as they're at the limit. The only thing you might have to watch out for is the sump. The Dolly and Spit sumps are different.
Nick Jones Posted February 16, 2012 Posted February 16, 2012 Tune for reliability and torque. They don't really like to rev. This means changing the gearing of the car to take advantage of the torque IMO. The 1500 Spit has a 3.63 diff for a reason!- TR5 grind should probably be considered the limit for a road car, Mk3 Spit grind probably better for normal everyday use.- Get it properly balanced- Do "tolerance" the oil pump- Make sure ALL the oilways are properly clean and drilled all the way through- Do have a good dig around on the block waterjacket, especially behind no 4 cylinder - deposits can be really hard and require moderate hammer/screwdriver type force to get moving.- Do use Tri-metal bearings (VP2 if possible, but you'll need much luck or deep pockets to find those these days).- Some say that using the dished low compression US market pistons (which were very cheap at one point) in conjunction with the shallower 1300 head.- 3 angle valve seats and back-cut the inlet valves. Some light fettling of the inlet short-side radius and valve throat helps flow. Do not polish. Do not mess with the chamber.- Do fit an oil cooler an oil-stat. The 1500 does need one.- Use decent oil.Nick
bob dunn Posted February 20, 2012 Author Posted February 20, 2012 I found a dolomite the exaust looks very interresting can it fit on a spit.
mikeyb Posted February 20, 2012 Posted February 20, 2012 what's interesting about it Bob? All my dollies were quite the opposite!
bob dunn Posted February 20, 2012 Author Posted February 20, 2012 Its not the big cast iron lump but a mild steel tube setup , looks a bit gas flowed.
mikeyb Posted February 21, 2012 Posted February 21, 2012 in that case you might be lucky. I don't recall a tubular one being readily avail for a dolly therefore it may well have originated from a Spit! Susupect your only issue will be squeezing the downpipe past the chassis if it does turn out to be a custom Dolly one
uksnatcher Posted February 21, 2012 Posted February 21, 2012 Assuming its a 1500....Dolly starter motor pre-engaged type not an inertia type WILL be needed, the dolly 1500 ring gear teeth are unique to a dedicated 'hens-teeth' pre-engaged starter motor.... If you dont have the dolly pre-engaged starter change the flywheel/ring gear to a spitfire one, then you can use the easily available inertia type starter ( and hi-torque upgradable) ;)The starter wiring will have to be changed too from the original solenoid type if using the pre-engaged starter.
bob dunn Posted February 22, 2012 Author Posted February 22, 2012 I am useing the spit 1300 fly wheel its 15 lb, 1 1/2 lb lighter than the std 1500. also the 1300 mkiii cam
uksnatcher Posted February 23, 2012 Posted February 23, 2012 I dont know if lighter flywheel is better but no probs with a starter then.. ;)
bob dunn Posted March 18, 2012 Author Posted March 18, 2012 Looking at the head now it is 3.05" what was it as standard.
Bainzy Posted April 1, 2012 Posted April 1, 2012 Think that's the standard measurement for a 1500 9:1 head (TKC1155), I have one here that measures around 3.05"-3.06".
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