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1500 Dolomite engine in a spitfire


bob dunn

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Tune for reliability and torque.  They don't really like to rev.  This means changing the gearing of the car to take advantage of the torque IMO.  The 1500 Spit has a 3.63 diff for a reason!

- TR5 grind should probably be considered the limit for a road car, Mk3 Spit grind probably better for normal everyday use.
- Get it properly balanced
- Do "tolerance" the oil pump
- Make sure ALL the oilways are properly clean and drilled all the way through
- Do have a good dig around on the block waterjacket, especially behind no 4 cylinder - deposits can be really hard and require moderate hammer/screwdriver type force to get moving.
- Do use Tri-metal bearings (VP2 if possible, but you'll need much luck or deep pockets to find those these days).
- Some say that using the dished low compression US market pistons (which were very cheap at one point) in conjunction with the shallower 1300 head.
- 3 angle valve seats and back-cut the inlet valves.  Some light fettling of the inlet short-side radius and valve throat helps flow.  Do not polish.  Do not mess with the chamber.
- Do fit an oil cooler an oil-stat.  The 1500 does need one.
- Use decent oil.

Nick

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in that case you might be lucky. I don't recall a tubular one being readily avail for a dolly therefore it may well have originated from a Spit!

Susupect your only issue will be squeezing the downpipe past the chassis if it does turn out to be a custom Dolly one

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Assuming its a 1500....Dolly starter motor pre-engaged type not an inertia type WILL be needed, the dolly 1500 ring gear teeth are unique to a dedicated 'hens-teeth' pre-engaged starter motor....

If you dont have the dolly pre-engaged starter change the flywheel/ring gear to a spitfire one, then you can use the easily available inertia type starter  ( and hi-torque upgradable) ;)

The starter wiring will have to be changed too from the original solenoid type if using the pre-engaged starter.

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