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engine installation


Alex

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Can be done, 6 of 1, half a dozen of the other.

Have to watch the radiator top panel and the bulkhead, and the battery tray, and getting the sump to clear the cross member and go onto the gearbox input shaft, otherwise it's a doddle :)

P.S. You still have to unbolt the front suspension cross-member from the main chassis rails (8 bolts). The car then bounces 4'' in the air on the struts. This gives the added clearence for the sump that is required.

I actually prefer doing it from above (Ooo Errr Misssus)

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That was my thinking Richard as well. I'm thinking that the less I undo the less I have to do up (makes sense eh!! ;D).Also the engine will be shorter as I'll have no clutch on the back so that should gain me an inch or so?
Thanks again Richard

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Having just done this job (yesterday!) heres how I would do it.

Lower the engine in from the top, without the gearbox anywhere near the car. It will go straight in (obviously with the bonnet and the rad not on the car!)

Line it up on the front engine mounts, connect them up, then allow the engine to rest on the bulkhead (designed to do this so don't worry)

Then, going from under the car, fit the torque converter onto the end of the gearbox, install the gearbox by lining it up on the studs and the bolt holes in the bellhousing.

Then, once this is in a bolted up, you can spin the engine on the front pulley to line up the torque converter bolts/holes in the ringgear and put in the 4 bolts to hold the torque converter to the ringgear.

Doing it this way will ensure no damage to the input shaft (and input shaft seal!!) on the gearbox, and the front suspension does not need to be touched, not even the front cross-member.

If you choose to put it in from underneath (have also done it this way when I didn't have access to an engine hoist, then you will need to remove the front suspension cross member and the engine mounting cross member (also the carbs and manifold will have to come off, doing it from the top you can put the engine in complete!), then bolt the engine and gearbox together, then lift it up into the car. Much harder, sod to line up with all the mountings and in my opinion, takes far longer and is harder.

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S/H I'd look around £70 for a gearbox. dont forget you will also need;

Flywheel
Clutch bearing carrier - release arm
Propshaft
Clutch cylinders & pipe
Pedal box inc pedal
Gear-stick & surround
Gearbox cross-member and mount

But well worth doing, should be worth 5mpg........

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If it is a BW65 autobox then the prop is the same...............

35 is a spline, but the 65 is a flange, same as a manual.

Boxes, second hand, £70 ish.

Clutch, £47.50 from Canley classics for a 2000 clutch and they are wonderful.

Flywheel, in about 3 weeks you can have mine if you want, I'm replacing mine with a lightened one...........

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Well I put the engine in today from the top and without undoing the crossmember. Went in a treat once we lengthened the beam on the engine crane to clear that massive nose.Nothings connected yet just front engine mounts and top of gear box.(wife stops play!) May do some more tonight if I can get permission unfortunatly said wife is having to work long hours at the moment.Should settle down soon.

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I dropped a bo****k you cant turn the torque converter with the engine in and bolted to the box due to the pressure on the flywheel.Obviously I need to to bolt the converter to the flywheel.So I now need to undo the bell housing bolts so I can move the engine forwards a touch. Dont you just hate doing the same job twice?

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