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Engine knocking from cold


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Still trying to find a good 2000/2500/2.5
Found one on t'bay that (colour apart) might do job but vendor says engine knocks from cold but runs fine and doesnt knock when starts from warm. Car has done 102k.
Any ideas what it might be? Are these engines often knocking out big or little ends or main bearings or is it something less expensive?
Also looking at the grey auto on e bay too. Is it feasible to change to manual?

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The 6 cylinder engines ALWAYs knock from cold.

This is because the oil filter is on the side of the block, and when you turn the engine off, all the oil drains out of it back into the sump. So, when you start it, the oil pump has to fill the filter (about a pint or so) with oil before the bearings get any oil pressure, hence the knock.

To cure this, replace the oil filter with a spin on conversion (Chris Witor is the best) and this uses a modern type filter (better filtation, easier to change) and allows the oil to stay in the filter, hence no knock on start up.

Sometimes, this can damage the shells, so the engine might need big end and mains replacing (costs about £50 to buy them, and if the engine is out of the car I would do this before you put it in.........)

Howeverm, 102k engine, should be fine. Put the spin on filter on and it'll probably reduce about 75% of the problem.

My 2500S has the filter on, but at 150k, its still knocks from cold...........I tend to turn it on the key with no choke for a few seconds to get some pressure up before pulling out the choke to start it...........I think most of us do.

Hope this helps.

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Does it have a spin-on oil filter conversion? The 2000 I used to have did exactly the same thing, it was starving for oil at startup and that caused the big ends to rattle briefly until the oil pressure built up. I think it was slowly knocking out the big end shells due to this, which I believe is a known problem (as the oil drains out of the filter back into the engine, as it is is slightly inclined toward it) hence the spin-on conversions available.

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The original filter housing is a big blue dome shaped steel housing about 5 inches in diameter with a 5/8 inch headed bolt in the middle which sticks out of the side of the block horizontally and contains a replaceable paper element type filter.
   The spin on conversion has a big flat alloy adaptor plate sticking out horizontally also with a 5/8 inch bolt holding it on but with a spin on type oil filter coming off that at 90 degrees downwards.

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