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Alex

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I have a "spare" engine that came with my car.I'm under the impression it needs new rings,although this is just based on what I've been told from the previous owner.
The engine number starts CR ends HES this doesnt seem to match with what I thought the saloons came with.I'm under the impression he had the engine changed by a local garage some years ago,it then started running rough.This would appear to be when he stopped using it,had the engine taken out and the current engine rebuilt.....I dont know but as I'm writing I'm thinking perhaps my current engine is the original thats now been rebuilt.Numbers start ME ends HEBW the cars registered as jan 74.
Any help gratefully received Alex

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Here's a thread about CR engines: http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum/Blah.pl?b-2000/m-1160517770/

Whatever it is - worth saving.  It should give you good power.

HE means high compression.  Not sure what the S means.  BW means mated to an auto 'box.

I seem to remember you mentioned your engine number ages ago and I thought it sounded about right for your age of car.

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So should I bring it in from under its plastic cover?  ;D
I dont think the P/O new then, otherwise I'm sure he'd have said for the price I paid ;D.
Any way to tell what it is for certain or is it a case of pull it apart and see?.....Oh and thanks for the help!!

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Maybe get more info on what was wrong with it from PO?  

Do a compression test maybe?  Then a wet test to see if the rings are ok.

Are you still thinking about a manual conversion?  If you can make that engine sweet you will have an absolute flyer on your hands.   ;D

Blimey - just read Mikey's suggestion (I'd bite his arm off!!)   :D

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Yes manual conversion is definate .I dont like the auto makes me yawn!!
I suppose the only way to do the compression test etc would be to get it running? Might try speaking to the previous owner ...I'm almost certain he said it was missing/or had a piston ring problem.
Its a pain at the moment as the engine in the car seems to need new shells etc its all money at the moment.

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Its got no flywheel or anything like that on it its not seized though so thats obviously a good thing.I suppose if it was fitted in my auto thats why theres no flywheel.Oh and no rockers or pushrods!!

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This is a pure guess Alex.  Maybe they have used the PI pushrods on the 2000 engine in which case they'd be 1/8" too long.  Might explain the spacers?

3 lengths of pushrod: 8" - pre ME50000 2000 engines; 8 1/8" - PI and later 2000s; 8 5/16" - 2500 TC and S.

You can swap the rockers between 2000 and 2500s.  Sounds like you should have all the bits there.

Edit: sorry just re-read your post and this is exactly what you were suggesting!!

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This head has double valve springs is that the norm? Just double checked its definately still turning over nice and easy. Cams all shiny through dizzy hole so I guess thats good to.

Heres my dilema I have a rebuilt 2000 engine (that I knackered the shells in).
I have a mk1 pi engine that .....?
The 2000 engine has an unleaded head the pi wont.I want a 2.5 but I need a good running engine ready for the RBRR.

Oh and I'm skint so I've got to be careful that I dont get carried away.

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Alex why not investigate the condition of the PI engine. You don't need an unleaded head by all accounts. You could get the engine up and running and worry about going unleaded later on if you get any valve recession.

It won't cost anything but your time to look at the bearings/crankshaft/bores (etc). You never know you might be able to build the engine up for the cost of a few 'consumables' like shells (etc).

If that works to plan - does it ever? - then you could pop the engine in and enjoy the RBRR. If you find it needs machining and lots of TLC you could schedule that for next year when funds might be better. Taking a peek doesn't cost does it?!

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I did the additive thing once before.....what a pain in the arse. I do agree though fix it once its broken as its no dearer.However could my existing unleaded head work or would I loose the new found power?

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dont worry about unleaded Taxi is PI on carbs standard head I use octane boster as and when and a bit of which ever additive is laying around at the back of the garage.....seems to like pot noodles aswell! parp parp

Alex looks like youve the makings of a good engine gearbox that should be at least 125bhp + the spare engine in London could give up some bits for you to cut down on cost etc etc -I love plans like this !

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Alex wrote:
However could my existing unleaded head work


I think the head height is too low and you get too high a compression ratio.  It would maybe go ok just for a short time only!  Probably wouldn't need a spark to light the fuel and be a right b***er to switch off.

If you fit a PI engine and keep your diff it'll accelerate even quicker as the gearing will be a wee bit lower than standard 2.5 - you'll burn anything at the lights. ;)

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