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Meh! Now the engine has started knocking


Mj17

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Why can't my car just give me one random problem to deal with at a time!

The brake pedal starts playing up and loosing fluid so I take the wheels off to make bleeding easier.

Put the wheels back on and I gain steering vibration at 70 (and working it's way down the speedo) - that comes and goes as you cruise.

And now arriving at work this morning I have a knocking from the engine!  Wasn't there again setting off for home but was back again by the time I got home.

It's infrequent (order of 10s between knocks) and sounds more like a loose lump of metal (more of a clonk than a rattle).  Hard to tell but seemed to be coming from the lower front half of the engine.

The only other thing I could tell is you could only hear it in 1st/2nd/neutral.

Any thoughts on this one!

Cheers.

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Would I be correct in thinking the easiest way to rule in/out both alternator and viscous coupling would be to check the engine is still doing it, then drive around the block with the fan belt off?

Mines only a very small block so don't think I'll overhead/run out of electricity and neither the fan or alternator would be turning - correct?

At least both these options are all a lot cheaper than some of the thoughts that ran through my mind!

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Assuming it is the viscous fan, does driving on it cause any damage?

I know I could feel the knock through the clutch pedal but will this be putting damaging stresses on the bottom end/gear train?

Trying to work out if I can use it to drive (~100 mile round trip) and get a replacement or need to wait for the post...

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If you remove the bolts that hold the plastic fan to the coupling, and replace with slightly longer bolts, you can "lock up" the viscous coupling and that will tell you if it it that or not.

If it is the viscous coupling, then driving it 100 miles or so won't hurt............ or, leave the long bolts in!

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had to replace my viscous coupling last year... its a rubbish job to do, rad out etc... undoing the big nut at the front of the engine is a bugga, you will need to shock it.... its supposed to torqued up to 90lbft if i remember correctly

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I changed it and it was dead easy. Stick car in gear, stick a long pole on the end of ratchet handle - 10 seconds...  mileage does indeed vary. ;D

No problem driving without alternator - I drove 60 miles in the dark with full lights like that and didn't flatten the battery.

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Anyone know the size of the nut - nothing worse than removing the rad from your only car to discover...you need to buy a new socket as you don't have one the right size.

Is it a 'normal' one or something odd like the crank pully nut/steering wheel nut/diff nose nut?

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For the record - 24mm (1" seemed quite loose, 7/8" too small and metric sockets easier to get hold of down my way anyway).

After a fight to get the radiator out and my brain not being able to work out which gear to put the car in/which side of the wheel to put the chock when turning the engine anti-clockwise...job done and noise gone.  Well THAT noise gone anyway :)

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