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The mains bearings have been noisy on my 1500 Spit and the oil pressure is getting very low (less than 15psi on hot idle).  I've got a price for a short engine rebuild from a local engineering place.  It's going to cost £650 for the rebuild with a balanced bottom end and a fast road cam fitted.  This includes a re-bore and new pistons.

The question is how do I know if a re-bore is needed and is a re-bore a bad thing on the 1500 engine?

Also is there anything else I should be getting done to the engine? I just want a good fastish but usable car for the road.

Cheers, Phil

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After genuine 35000 miles from new it was the lower shells of the main bearings which were clapped on my 1500, the worst being the centre one.  The big ends were not too bad.

Still cannot find a decent oil filter which does not drain, so I churn the starter until the oil pressure light goes out.

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[quote by=Mac link=Blah.pl?b=spit,m=1176755062,s=9 date=1176815778]Can you change the mains by dropping the sump?
How do you get the half shell that remains above the crank out and in agin?
[/quote]

Drop the main cap.  With a thin screwdriver push on the end of the remaining bearing shell that does not have the tang in it.  The shell will roll around the top of the crank and come out.  Refitting is reverse of removal etc. Thrusts work the same way.  The centre one is easy, the ends rather less so.  You will probably need to wash your hair with Fairy liquid after...........

Nick

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Thanks Nick

[quote by=Nick_Jones link=Blah.pl?b=spit,m=1176755062,s=10 date=1176834233]

Drop the main cap.  With a thin screwdriver push on the end of the remaining bearing shell that does not have the tang in it.  The shell will roll around the top of the crank and come out.  Refitting is reverse of removal etc. Thrusts work the same way.  The centre one is easy, the ends rather less so.  You will probably need to wash your hair with Fairy liquid after...........

Nick[/quote]

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[quote by=rhodes link=Blah.pl?b=spit,m=1176755062,s=7 date=1176815482]Still cannot find a decent oil filter which does not drain, so I churn the starter until the oil pressure light goes out.[/quote]

Coopers and Fram produce filters with a reliable anti-drain valve.
Cheers,
Bill.

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[quote by=davesideways link=Blah.pl?b=spit,m=1176755062,s=5 date=1176763129]
I knocked out some county bearings in 7000miles in my 1300 small crank...Fitted them for a laugh.....[/quote]

I don't know about the current situation, but my old Couny catalogues don't list tri-metal bearings for the small crank engines, just for the big crank 1300 & 1500.
Cheers,
Bill.

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Thanks for all the useful advice.

I've decided that I'll learn a lot more (and save some money too!!) by doing as much of the work myself as possible.  I've got hold of a spare engine so I can take my time and once this is fitted I'll start stripping the original and sourcing good quality bearings, etc for the re-build.

Cheers, Phil

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I wish there was a college nearby that did courses on engine rebuilding. "Take your own engine and rebuild it over a 10 week period" or something like that. One night a week would give you time to order any parts you needed for the following week, and you'd learn a valuable skill with expert tuition. I'd pay good money to learn it from an expert...

How about a residential engine rebuilding course at Canley's ?!?!?!

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Just gofer it. I taught meself the basics years ago with a Bonnie, and learnt the rest this time round with the spit, such as change rings, hone yer bores, etc.
;-)

Bonnie ran fine fer years with the old rings back in though
;D

Oh yeah and thanks to Mr Haynes and this forum of course, awesome

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