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Spitfire MKIV Engine


Henry

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[quote by=SpitBang link=Blah.pl?b=spit,m=1180461744,s=1 date=1180464262]It is partly going to depend on which 1300 engine you have and also which gearbox you are using. You may need to change the clutch plate due to differing number of splines.[/quote]

Basically i have a dead spit MKIV 1300cc and i have just recently aquired a 1500 1979 model it needs light restoration. The engine in my 1300 is a reconditioned and has only done about 5000 miles since then. i want to put my engine into the new 1500 without too much hassle the clutch on the 1500 is fine and the clutch on the 1300 is fine so all parts could be merged....

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Use the engine/box/prop from the 1300. Ideally the diff too to keep it all "in balance" ie not a real problem but acceleration will be well down unless you swap it over.
It is easier to swap a complete engine/box anyway.

If you want to keep the 1500 box the easiest way is to fit the 1500 flywheel to the back of the 1300 engine. To do that you will need 4 little adapter sleeves, they used to be sold by canleys but currently up as N/A (pt no 60070). The majority of 1300 flywheels use a smaller bolt to attach to the crank. However, the dolomite1300 use the bigger bolts and the 1300 size flywheel, so if your 1300 engine number starts DH then the 1500 flywheel wull bolt straight on. But then it may mave different ring gear! and so need the matching starter.......
Alternatively keep the 1300 flywheel and clutch cover, but fit a dolomite 1300 clutch plate as Mr Spitbang suggests. Probably simpler.
Just too many choices really!

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No, 1500 uses a larger clutch. You will need the dolly 1300 clutchplate. GCP244 is the part no. I got a NOS one off ebay for a tenner. About £50 from rimmers, canleys do not seem to stock them anymore? Mr pearson is making it hard to mate a single rail box to a 1300!
Another alternative is to drill and tap the crank on the 1300 to accept the 1500 sized bolts, and so the flywheel/clutch.. Easy if you have the gear......
Good call on the o/d!
Still suggest you use the 3.89 diff from the 1300 too. It will be sluggish otherwise.

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I would do the 1500. When its out the car, drain the oil, whip the sump off and inspect the bearings. If all OK just replace them if at all iffy, new thrust washers and clean the sump out. Job done! Can be done in the car, just messier!
Obviously check compression etc before starting work, no point in finding out it needs a rebore as well!

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It's a simple swap - just get a Dolly 1300 clutch kit and away you go.  This is what I have in my car and haven't had any problems.

The diff swap is optional - as it sounds like you have 2 dead cars and just want to get 1 working to drive in the sun while you fix the other I'd just swap engines and get on overhauling the 1500 engine rather than spending more time on the temporary fix.

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You can use the flywheel and clutch from the 1500 on the 1300 engine.  If this 1300 has the smaller diameter bolts, you can use the locating bushings out of the differential.  They are under the carrier bearing mounts.  I did this on my Mk I after John Kipping gave me a heads up on it.  Works fine.  I also use the 3.89 differential and hope to soon have a rebuilt 3.63 to use.  The car is short on power with only an 1147.   

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I took my crank into a local automotive engineer, and he drilled the 1300 crank to take the larger 1500 bolts. Cost about £40, and is much safer in my opinion.

Having said that, the flywheel and clutch is heavier - I'd use the dolly clutch if you can!

Jon

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