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Engine swap upgrade


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Well the old 1500 dolly donor went to the scrap yard today a bit sad really my first car was an 1850. But she did me proud and no one on eBay wanted to take her on less engine and gearbox. The O/D box went for record money plus I have sold my 1300 too and numerous dolly bits. Only problem thats keeping me from that extra 10 BHP is the fact that dollies and spits have different sumps :-( A spit has a well at the back and a dolly has it at the front doh.

Anyway all is not lost as the guy who bought my 1300 has a dead 1300 that he is happy to trade the sump for a distributer just means I'll have to wait a bit before I can get it in.

As I am taking the sump off thought I might as well treat it to a new set of big end shells, seals and gaskets and check the rings are free as it has been stood a while so that will delay things a bit too.

Trouble is once you have started where do you stop new timing chain while I am there ? ....

Where is the best place to source the shells and gaskets Rimmers seem to sell it all but not exactly bargain prices

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Bearing shells (don't forget the thrust washers!) are a good move, but try to get tri-metal ones.  You will be lucky to find vandervells (the best) but should be able to get King ones (often badged as County).  Avoid the the horrible aluminium Glacier ones.
Probably best to dismantle and check sizes before ordering shells as even quite low mileage 1500s may have had a crank grind.  May be worth getting these parts via an engine reconditioner?

Timing chain and tensioner definitely worth doing while you're in there plus seals at both end of the crank.

When fitting the 1300 sump, you'll probably need to to put a dink in it under no.1 big end or the engine will do it for you on first fire up (VERY scary noise!).

Hope you kept the Dolly pre-engaged starter.  The bendix one won't work with the dolly starter ring gear as the chamfer is on the opposite site and reputedly different no of teeth.



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Thanks Nick, Top tip about the sump never occurred to me that the 1300 and 1500 would be different this mix and match approach is full of pitfalls.

No worries about the starter I retained my old 1300 flywheel as it is a special ford 5 speed one lightened and balanced not even sure if it is Triumph or Ford based looks very different from the 1500 one. Any way drilled out the bolt holes to take the larger 1500 bolts and it fits fine.

So I will go for new shells, thrust washers and seals, timing chain and tensioner. I am planning for some head work and a fast cam at a later date so will pick up the valve guides and rocker shaft then.

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When I had my high compression Mk3 1300 engine rebuilt (around 20 years ago!) I had the thrust washer doweled to ensure it stayed in place.  It had previously dropped out, resulting in slightly!!! excess float on the crank, and some horrible wear.  The pins should ensure it doesn't fall out again.  

Something else to consider adding to the ever-expanding shopping list;-))

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