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Engine help needed by newbie


Fat Controller

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hi,
is the knocking rhythmic with the engine running or more random?con rod bearings tend to be more noisy when engine is under load and around mid rev range ,unless it's mains which generally give a deep rumble sound at idle.
could be something as simple as loose  fanbelt crank pulley nut or exhaust hitting chassis rail.
as for expense it depends on how much you can do youself,if it is bearings,the bearings themselves are not that expensive but the crank may require a regrind if journals are scored or have gone oval...

and then the bug bites....might as well do this and then that while you're at it,could end up spending loads. ;)  

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Hi esxefi,

Thank you very much for your prompt reply.  The knocking is rhythmic with the engine running and quite a rumble and knocking whilst at idle.  I am almost certain with your info that it must be to do with the crankshaft and its bearings.  I am able to do some basic work with a land rover enthusiast but would send it to a garage to be fitted and either replace or regrind as required.

I was just trying to establish a rough price as i can not afford to spend too much so soon after christmas!

Thank you

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As said sounds like it could be as simple as knocking exhaust against chassis. This can happen if the engine mounts are a little 'soggy'. Inspect the engine mounts and change them if they are looking cracked or tired. This can be done at home with a trolley jack a plank of wood and suitable sized spanners.

Method:
1) Park up car on level ground with handbrake on and rear wheels chocked for good measure
2) Place plank underneath the sump to spread load and use a trolley jack to take the weight of the engine
3) Loosen off and unfasten one of the engine mounts
4) Replace with new using new nuts, washers and nylocs preferably, do not tigthen up at this stage
5) Loosen off and unfasten the other old engine mount
6) Replace with new (etc)
7) Adjust positioning of engine if required using trolley jack so that clearance is maximised between manifold and chassis one driver's side
8) Tighten nuts and bolts...........

Job done. It is relatively simple to do. You may need to raise the front of the car to simplify access and to place jack under the sump. Take care to get a sturdy plank of wood that will spread the load under the sump. If raising the front of the car use decent axle stands under the chassis. If any of this sounds too worrying to do yourself then go to a local meet (where are you?) and see whether someone will take a quick look or give you a hand. Alternatively there are many decent classic freindly garages that could do this for you.

I very much doubt that what you have described is engine trouble itself if the sound dissappears when above 10MPH under normal driving conditions. Bearing trouble will be obvious in different circumstances like lifting off the accelerator at speed (etc)...

I hope this helps,

Neil

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oh dear,

if you really are not that confident in stripping the engine or just do not have the facilities then in my opinion i would bite the bullit and go for a short engine from a reputable supplier(ask on here for recomendations)and change over the head and ancilliaries.at least you will have some sort of comeback if it does go wrong.
if you do strip the engine yourself do you have a good reliable machine shop ready to do the work?
not worth skimping only to then have to remove the engine again somewhere down the line,cleanliness and accuracy are critical to the longevity of an engine.

but as already mentioned look for the simplest causes first,also consider clutch or g/box,does sound disappear when clutch peddle depressed?

hope it's not to expensive.

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Thank you Neil for your detailled reply I will take a good look at the mountings tomorrow hopefully it will be something as simple as that.  The sound is constant even when the clutch is depressed and have not noticed any noise when releasing the accelerator when driving.  It is mainly when sat at idle, pulling away and reversing.  

I do have a reputable contact who can machine parts and has worked on Triumph engines, I was looking at Rimmer Bros and Moss for replacement parts engine block and crankshaft etc.

Thank you both very much for your help

Mark

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Well take this as a pinch of salt as i aint an expert but surely if it doesnt change when driving or when you depress the clutch (removing the load off said "malfunctiong" part) then it could be something simple like the exhuast banging?

I have a nasty habbit of presuming the worst - its easy to do and often even easier to convince yourself you have found the problem without checking everything else first - and its a very expensive mistake to make, youd be upset if it still banged after a new engine!

As mentioned it could be the natural frequency of the car at low revs which causes something to resonate making it bang - fingers crossed it is then its an easy fix!
Let us know what you discover.

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Mark, def try to get along to a local meeting. Don't worry if you are not a member, nobody is worried about that. "Try before you buy"
And if there isn't a local CT meet there may be a TSSC one, I am sure you would be equally welcome, you would at our TSSC one for sure.
As to suppliers....there are quite a few out there. Many have stopped suppling engines, I thought that was the case with rimmers?? There is an engine company near nottingham who regularly ebay recon short engines and heads, may be worth a thought. Or it may just need a crank swap if compression etc is all OK, and it does turn out to be the bearings.

Clive

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