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Engine stopped and won't start


Billy Boy Bailey

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Ever since I flushed out my heater rad, the GT6 has been a pig to start. Turns over fine but acts as if no spark. Small spark shows. Replaced the Lumenition electronic ignition with old fashioned distributor. Started first time and raced around country roads no problem. Engine stopped. Put petrol in empty tank and engine ran on 3 cylinders. Overhauled both carbs and replaced both diaphrams, one had split. Wouldn't start. Fitted new points, leads, cap, rotor arm, serviced distributor, fitted another ballast resistor and one of my spare coils. Even overhauled petrol pump. Timed and tuned and goes like the wind, best it has ever been. Started from cold and started when hot. Next day won't start. Fitted replacement ,refurbished petrol tank and Hitorque starter. That'll fix it! Wouldn't start. Fitted another spare coil, started first time. Enjoyed Saturday evening flying down country lanes, fabulous. Even stopped to fill up and petrol guage works, first time ever. Later in eve won't start. This morning started and got to mother -in-laws and it stopped again whilst on tick over and there it has remained. It's an intermittant fault but I'm blowed if I can find cause. Just tried spare ignition switch but still dead. Does any one have any bright ideas? Sorry to ramble.  :'(

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705 wrote:
I could try the old one but the problem arose with the electronic ignition and that doesnt even use a rotor arm. I should be in my garage working on my GT6 but I'm ironing instead. Oh boy, oh boy.


Oh, do you have Megajolt then?  That doesn't even use a distributor.  If you have a distributor it will have a rotor arm.  May not have points though.

Nick

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Be methodical, it can only be the spark or fuel. So start by checking if there is still a spark when it stops running.

If you have a spark check it's occuring at the right time (dizzy may be loose).

If you have a spark at the correct time then it must be fuel. Remove the pipe at the carb and test fuel is being pumped to the carb. If yes then there is about a 95% chance the fault lies in the carb, proably a blockage or stcicking inlet valve.

When you have checked these let us know if there is still a problem - above all, remain methodical in your diagnosis of the problem.

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Steve_Curton wrote:
Be methodical, it can only be the spark or fuel.


You forgot "air" and I only say this because once upon a time I broke down at the exit of the Stoneleigh show. Loads of people stopped to help but no one could get the damn car (Gitfire) running. Recovery truck was summoned and when the guy came he he took a look under the bonnet and said he could get it running - he pulled off the foam air filter which was so saturated with fuel that it was effectively choking the engine. The car started without it :-)

Fuel Air Spark.

Another thing I was told recently which was "bleedin' obvious" but not when you're at the side of the road thinking how the hell am I gonna get home - check the last thing you messed with first! I had a "situation" last week that turned out to be nothing more serious than a loose low tension wire fixed in seconds, yeah once I found it after some instruction from Yoda on the phone - feel the force, oh and fiddle with the last thing you messed with!

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Thanks for suggestions everyone, there is fuel, it sprays out when I loosen the fuel hose to the carbs. I can see the fuel has gone down in the glass fuel bowl, can manually pump it up again. After servicing the carbs it revs well, better than it has ever done. Can't help feeling it's electrical as when it stops it's as quick as if I've switched off the ignition. New cap, leads and rotor arm although looks like there is some burning to brass on rotor arm and where it contacts the centre inside of distrib cap. Is this normal?  I'll check for a spark again tomorrow but knowing the beast it will probably start first time. I've just ironed about 15 shirts.

Billy Boy

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Do the cap and rotor arm match - I have an idea that it's possible to end up with a rotor arm that sits too low and doesn't contact the carbon rod properly-- (or is that on 4 cyl?)  Check carbon rod is present......

Dodgy ignition switch or LT wiring (esp ballast resistor wire).  Try hot wiring it and see if that makes a difference?

Nick

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Thanks Nick , I thought dizzy caps had a carbon telescopic centre or that could have been my spit or TR6. My one doesnt. The cap and arm are the Lucas type, I've got a few AC delco ones, I could try replacing the whole distributor again. The first one had the elecronic ignition fitted in it without points and sensor instead of a rotor arm but still didn't fire. Ignition switch , I put my spare one in and still no joy. The ballast resistor I've already swapped from another spare distributor. Trouble is everytime I replace something, it starts, to make you think it's fixed but then won't start later on. I wonder if it has anything to do with the position of the moon?

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705 wrote:
Thanks Nick , I thought dizzy caps had a carbon telescopic centre or that could have been my spit or TR6. My one doesnt. The cap and arm are the Lucas type


All the lucas ones I've seen have a carbon rod...... :-/ what does yours have?  If it just has a bit of coil spring hanging out then the carbon rod has gone missing and you've found your problem..... :P  Doubt it's that simple though.

Nick

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I stopped in at the in- laws to raise rotor arm up slightly, just in case it was missing the cap and......... nothing. The inside of the cap does have the carbon rod but it is almost flush with the inside. Should it be spring loaded and push in and out? I want my dinner then I'll go back in the Astra, bless it, and try some photos.

Thanks chaps

Billy Boy

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Spriny eh? It wasnt even springy when I took it out of the box. I have 3 ac delco ones but none of those are springy. They do have a lot more rod showing, I don't think I can use the AC Delco on cap on the Lucas as I don't have a spare Lucas cap. I may have to change the whole distributor.

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Ah, that looks knackered to me.  The carbon rod in the centre should be sticking out and be spring loaded.  It should also be making contact with the rotor arm leaving a shiny spot in the centre - yours just looks like it's arcing.  Looks like you do have a decent rotor arm - just need a decent cap now......

Nick

Edit:  The Delco dizzy caps do have a fixed carbon rod 'cause the rotor arm has a springy thingy on it instead  :P

(I thik my keyboard need a new battry it's typing random letters and ling lots out )

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