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1500 engine mods


Callyspoy

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Hi guys, now i have tried a search to see if anything pops up, but to no avail(for a full guide)
I have a Herald which i am looking to fit a 1500 engine into. I know, sorry!
so i am looking to get a few extra horses out of it, and quite a bit more torque too!
I assume there are a few tricks and that which enable a fair power increase? Obviously already looked at exhaust/manifolds, toying with Weber but that can be a real ball ache! so we will see!
are there any big valve heads off other cars that fit? what cam would be best suited to a fast road car? Does an increase in compression assist at all with these engines?

I am more used to the A series, which obviously is pretty easy to mod due to minis, Triumphs are very much new to me, so expect silly questions!
cheers
Callum

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GT6 UandA, cheers for that. that is definitely something to think about. After reading the bits DAVEMATE posted, you sound about right!
That is some very indepth writings! Fair play to that.
I am very torn about the whole thing though.
At the moment i have a very sweet engine in the car. The usual "was rebuilt at some point" when i bought it. But it genuinely is a very healthy sounding engine. The mot man even commented on it (after giving two sheets worth of fails!)
so...do i buy myself another 1300 head, have some fun porting, bigger valves etc on that, then plonk it on the engine with a big exhaust/manifold/twin SU's?
OR...
buy myself a 1500 engine, and have a play with that?
I currently have a Fiat twin cammed Morris Minor, and had a whole heap of crap doing that conversion. my aim is to not make such big mods this time. just a more simple street hooligan estate!
That said, i have spare everything for that Fiat conversion and had toyed with the idea of fitting one of those...
has this been done?

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Hi guys, just thought id say i went for a 1300 in the end. I went tocollect a new boot and doors for the Herald andthe guy had a Spitfire 1300 with o/d box attached to it. Needs a full strip down, but at £75, i couldnt say no!
So...1300 mods here i come! Suggestions??

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Which 1300? Small or large crank.

Usual mods are .

Lighten and balance Crankshaft , Lighten flywheel, Port and flow your head, Match your inlet manifold to head, larger valves, free flowing exhaust, Weber carbs, injection, Megajolt.
There are loads and it depends on your budget.
You could always add a 2 ltr Ford lump  :)

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Hi bobbyspit!
Can you tell which crankit has by the engine number? Or is it a more involved procedure?
I am looking at gwtting some nice simple power, not all out mentalist.
Crank balance, fast road cam, big valves, ported head, twin 1.5 su's, straighthrough exhaust. Thats the plan anyway. I'd assume that should be good 80ish hp?
With an o/d box and 3.6 diff should be a nice cruiser, albeit not too great up hill i guess!

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Hey sparky spit. Cheers for the input.
Theres a pretty good machine shop here in portsmouth so i will be pricing up with them about a rebore, skim and balancing.
As a ball park figure, with that sort of work carried out, what revs should i be going to? Although i do not plan red lining it all the time, the odd burst in third is always fun!

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Oh, a well setup and balanced 1300?? if small crank then I would guess 7000rpm is achieveable, large crank maybe 6500?? but probably not for long periods. And remember max power/torque will prbably tail off before maximum revs.
To make the most of those revs I would be inclined to stick with the std 4.11 ratio diff ;)
as SS said, extractor manifold, skim and cam.........good power should be easily done.

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Well that sounds fun!
I do travel down to cornwall a couple of times a year, so getting the revs down on the motorway is a bit of a must for me.
But majority of the time i go around town, so i want some nice power low down too!
Oh isnt it always a matter of what you are most willing to sacrifice!
As i have diff and o/d box already im inclined to fit both, who knows what lies ahead!
Need to sort the terrible suspension first though i guess!

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Or a compromise would be a 3.89 diff. Not that much taller than a 4.11 but enough to make a difference on the motorway (esp. with an O/D) and not too tall to stunt the performance. Colin Wake's (thescrapman) small crank 1300 Mk3 spit has a nicely balanced engine, 3.89 diff with O/D and runs like a turbine - very smooth at high revs and speeds.

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suspension is EASY to sort, and not to expensive.
Firstly, do not fit the standard issue black shocks sold by eveybody....cheap alternative is NoS monroe/woodhead etc shocks, found on ebay or autojumbles. (beware though, the new naff ones may be stamped woodhead, guess they bought the name or something) best are probably Koni's, but not cheap.
Front springs, nice and stiff, bit lower than std ( I like 480lb ones) and finally a swing spring for the rear with matching front ARB. I have successfully used SH spitfire items, but not clever if you want to carry passengers and/or heavy luggage on a regular basis.
see.....simple :)
And dont forget to get proper alignment done on the suspension geometry, that makes the world of difference.

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Cliftyhanger, what do you mean by swing spring? as in the rear suspension spring? if so, i believe mine is the standard estate one, so should be alright no? dampers will all be adjustables. probably spax as finances dictate, and i will never be a racer though i like to pretend!
front ARB, theres a few on the bay atm, so i will probably purchase one, and buy an overhaul kit for that. should work out cheap enough.
to harp back to my Morris Minor, i fitted poly bushes, ARB and adjustable dampers to that. the dampers were definitely the main thing to make a difference. But obviously i renewed the whole set up, which clearly is better than 50 year old rubber!
i will be putting a little lowering block in the rear. and also lower the front a tad. if buying adjustable height front dampers, which springs should i be getting? links appreciated!

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http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=SWING+SPRING+KIT+-+HERALD&ptno=SSK1

Is the car an estate??
The estate spring is stronger than the std saloon one, but tends to sit the car up a bit ( i have had estates, damn useful sheds!) the Courier (van) spring is stronger still, but a bit flatter, and that with a 1" lowering block was very good. But sadly the courier springs are hard to come by, unless Bill at Rarebits has some more made. With the estate spring the std front ARB should be used, with the courier spring I took it off as I also ran 440lb springs, handling was pretty good for an old car :)

The swing spring was a Triumph modification for the spitfire IV/1500. The spring was softer, but had a different pivot box where it attaches to the diff. http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/spitfire1500rearsuspensionroadspring.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/spitfire1500.html&category=axlessuspensiondriveshaftsandwheels&xsl=diagram.xsl  
this was used with a thicker front ARB, and made a remarkable difference, the cars (In my experience) are much better handling than the earlier style, less of a challenge and far more forgiving to driver error....
I used swing springs (with matching front ARB) on a herald and indeed my vitesse, all very successful.
The thicker ARB is not a terribly good idea with the std herald type rear spring, it should only be used with the swing spring. If that makes sense.
As to front springs, I ran canleys 440lb viteese springs, which were a little lowered, and when fitted to the Herald gave the std ride height (needed for road rallies!) However, on my spitfire I have moss 480lb springs, which are ideal but may require spacers or height adjustable shocks to get the rquired ride height. I "think" they were tt4407, but do check. Got mine on a heavy discounted day.
http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=3113

Hope that all helps, all from what I have done on my cars etc...
Clive

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