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Spit Mk 3 or Herald 1360 engine


MarkB

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I've had an engine in the garage for around twenty years well stored and occasionally turned over by hand. I removed it from a herald and had it running before it was removed and it sounded sweet so kept it incase I could use it one day. Well that day has come. It was fitted with twin carbs which where removed before storage and has a small crank nut so have always assumed it to have the small crank as per the Mk3 Spit. It has no prefix on the engine number and looks re-stamped. I am removing a Mk4 lump fitted to my Mk3 Spit and replacing it with this engine. I have just noticed that the plumbing is different on this new engine not having a water hose going to the head like the MK4 engine which makes me think it is a 1360 herald engine but I am sure a 1360 herald I owned had a large crank. This may have been that it was a 1970 model, didi they make a large and small crank 1360?

Cheers

Blue

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Blimey, You had me all excited for a minute unleaded head, unusual engine number thought I might have a recon, looked down the pushrods and it appears to be a new head gasket ;D. Had a quick sort out and found a known 1360 head and a Mk3 spit head. the herald head is also stamped 515573. I don't think I could be that lucky to have another unleaded head, maybe? Just measured the valves in the two heads Mk 3 bottom in the pic and both appear to have the same sizes fitted, exhaust aprox 30mm inlet 33mm. I wondered about the pipe from the water pump housing it has two outlets at the end. The inlet manifold pipe has one, I've had them with two outlets before, but that may have been off a 1500, just got to work out what way round the pipes fit.

Cheers  

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Can't work this out and every book i Have with under bonnet shots all the hoses appear to merge. The spitfire engine had an outlet from the head but the 1360 lump has that outlet blanked off so i was going to replace it with a hose connection, but it wont budge. So i am thinking I need the inlet manifold pipe with the two out lets as at the moment I am one hole short. Any ideas or under bonnet shots of the correct layout please.

Cheers

Blue

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  • 3 weeks later...

Got the new 1360 lump running today in my Spit Mk3 after it had been stored for around twenty years. I had a problem setting the timing as I couldn't seen any timing marks on the front pulley, so I turned over the engine until the valves were closed on number one cylinder with pistons one and for at the top of their stroke. The roto arm was pointing at number four, 180 out, so lifted out the Delco distributor turned the roto to point to number one lead but it would not seat, engage with the drive. I half expected this so fished the drive out from under the distributor and turned it 180. I looked closely and couldn't see any difference in the slots but it would only engage in the drive one way, maybe my eyes are going but there must be a difference. Spun it over a couple of times and it sprang into life.  Sounds sweet but not sure of its condition until I get a chance to drive it under load. The next problem now I have fitted this engine and j type overdrive is what to do about the diff. It has a 4:11 with the small diameter flanges, the overdrive prop has the large flange, so I can either change to the smaller flange on the prop or change the diff to a 38:9 and change the half shafts to the larger flanges. I am tempted just to change the prop flange for ease for now. Should accelerate better with the 4:11 but not sure how it will be with the OD box. What do you think?

Cheers

Blue

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if its was 180 degrees out you can just rearange the plug leads on the dizy cap   ;)
glad you got it going

i was told if you leave the 4-11 diff in you should be able to out drag most things off the line and with the overdrive you should be able to cruise at a reaonable speed, i only changed my diff as i fitted a 1500
and with the extra torque it would be a good idea(so i was told )and i think its it was a good move.
With your engine you can rev a lot higher and you could get away with out changing it and still criuse on the moterway at a good speed

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi
Been working on the Spitfire the last few days, and was attempting to get it back on the road this week as I have booked some track time with PPC in the park this weekend. This was booked several months ago and I had got the GT6 lowered and sorted intending on taking that, until the other week the head gasket decided to spring an oil leak so dont want to risk the 260 miles round trip plus a thrash or two around Mallory :'( Anyway I still have to much left to do plus get it MOT'd so very unlikely I'll be taking the Spit either. I have driven the Spit around the block today and still have a few issues. Firstly the J type box seems to be making a loud rushing noise until the clutch is depressed and then it stops. It's a new cover plate, thrust race and clutch plate which was a marina item with the correct diameter and spline. The engine is still revving itself up. It sits for five minutes idling perfectly then the revs start to climb and sits at about  2000 rpm before dying. Can't find any air leaks around the carbs or manifold, but think I will have to remove the lot and investigate. Also when the engine was at normal running temperature, I was backing the car back onto the trailer, about 35 degree incline and I thought I could hear a big/small end rattle. It may have been pinking as i Have no timing marks on the pulley and was going to adjust everything when I got it running. When hot the oil pressure at idle is around 60PSI. I did a compression test and each cylinder was between 190 -200 PSI. I am not sure what it should be for a healthy engine. As mentioned earlier this engine has sat for twenty years in my garage and I always thought it was a good engine but only ever heard it running in a wrecked herald.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Cheers

Blue  

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Either early 1360 small crank or Spit FD are both a good basis for a quick engine. As mentioned above 13.60 block will need machining to accept cam bearings. On the heads I have the Mk3 and 13.60 heads appear identical with same size valves, spit head may have higher compression.

Blue

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93 wrote:


Yes the Mk3 Spit engine block has cam bearings and the 13.60 doesn't, so would be an advantage to machine the block to accept Mk3 bearings.

Cheers

Blue  


Or run one of Canley's "Mk3 grind on a large journal blank" camshafts, which will run directly in the block. It does save the expense and trouble of fitting cam bearings, although I agree that fitting bearings and running a small journal cam is probably the slightly better option.

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IMHO no machining is needed; I have just fitted cam bearings to an early 1360 as I wanted to put a nos spit mk 3 cam in.
Difference is in the cam it self?
But I did leave it to the engine shop to fit the bearings - if any machining was needed, they have forgot to charge me  :)

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