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Engine rebuild advice please


Lucky 13

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Hello again! It's taken me over a year and 700+ hours of hard labour to get through all the chassis and bodywork and get to a point where I can start to look at things mechanical! That said, the car looks a bit better now than it did when I got it, IMHO. It's back to its original Mimosa - which is much brighter than I remember  8). I just need to mop the paintwork without burning through.....

The car came with a 2500 unit, fitted with SU's on an adapted manifold with home made bracketry. The sump pan has been hammered at the 'shallow end' I guess for clearance over the chassis crossmember. I've just finished stripping it to check bores, bearings, etc. My questions;

Front pulley/damper is damaged. Can I replace it with the undamped item off the scrap 2000 unit that came with the car. If not any ideas on sourcing a replacement without breaking the bank?

Clearances - I believe the 2500 is taller then the 2000. Does this affect clearances for the exhaust? - I've got a 6 branch system to fit

Bonnet clearance - It took me ages to get rid of the dinks caused by the rocker cover bolts hitting the bonnet. Any advice on how to avoid this when it all goes back together?

Fuel pump - I'd like to switch to an electric pump. Any advice on suitable options. What pressure does it need to deliver?

Oil filter - is it worth switching to a canister type? Where can I get a conversion kit?

Fan - Is it worth fitting an electric fan? Is the kenlowe option the best?

I'm sure I'll have more questions as I discover more - haven't started on the box and overdrive yet!

Cheers                   John

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3310 wrote:
The sump pan has been hammered at the 'shallow end' I guess for clearance over the chassis crossmember

Front pulley/damper is damaged. Can I replace it with the undamped item off the scrap 2000 unit that came with the car. If not any ideas on sourcing a replacement without breaking the bank?

Fuel pump - I'd like to switch to an electric pump. Any advice on suitable options. What pressure does it need to deliver?

Oil filter - is it worth switching to a canister type? Where can I get a conversion kit?

Fan - Is it worth fitting an electric fan? Is the kenlowe option the best?


Hi John,
            I'm not a sixer but I have heard them talk alot about the sumps and I'm sure they turn the sump round not batter it but I could be wrong.

The front pulley damper is essential to dampen the crank resonance at high (for a 2.5) rpm. Replace it with the correct item or an uprated item.

The Fuel pump is an easy one. If you are running webers then you need a high pressure pump where if you are using Su carbs or strombergs then you can get a low pressure fuel pump that cuts out at 1.4. Here is a link to the pump I am running on Su carbs.

http://www.fastroadcars.co.uk/shop/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=29

Oil filters, I think there are many reasons to change to the spin on type oil filter but the best reason I can see is so you can put an oil cooler in with a thermostat. Well worth it with the modern driving conditions etc.

Finally the Electric fan debate..................... Well I run a kenlowe fan which is super powerful but is quite expensive. You can buy cheaper but I like the idea of buying a complete kit that is built for the car. No messing round, just fit and forget. However the original fan does do the job but it will take longer to get the engine up to temp, will use a bit more fuel and will take a touch of horse power. If you want to keep it cheap then you can stick to the original or graft a modern fan onto your car. If you want to fit and forget then buy kenlowe or Revotech fan kits. The choice is yours.

Hope this helps.

Chris.

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The sump needs to be a gt6/vitesse one, and indeed the dings are there to clear the crank as it has a longer throw.
The 6 cylinder engines are all the same block, head depth varies between models a tad, but should't be an issue. But you will want to get it as low as possible, and ideally as far back as you can. Play with the mountings, it will all help.
Damper, there are a few different varieties, but I see no reason why they cannot be swapped as long as the saloon one is no longer than the fitted one.
Oil filter, all the specialists will sell them, they come from mocal. Well worth fitting I reckon, and consider an oil cooler (with thermostat) Not essential, but a nice addition.
Electric fan, I wouldn't bother if the radiator is all good. If it isn't, sort that first. If you really want an electric fan, I would fit either SPAL or one off a modern car, and get either an inline fitting for the switch, or a boss soldered into the rad.
Fuel pump, you want low pressure, 2psi ideal. Huco sell decent suitable pumps. Most electric pumps will need a pressure regulator as they often pump at 5psi (which WILL cause problems)

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cliftyhanger wrote:
The sump needs to be a gt6/vitesse one, and indeed the dings are there to clear the crank as it has a longer throw.


You can fit a saloon 2.5 sump but you have to beat it to clear the steering rack. or do as a Clive says and beat a GT6 sump to clear the con-rods for No.1 & 2.

Yes fit as low as you can. Do you have the GT6 alternator bracket? This sites the unit lower down than with the other 6-pot brackets.

Chris is correct about the harmonic damper. You do need one for a 2.5.

Spin on converter, thermostat and oil cooler well worth fitting. The GT6 cooling system is on the limit with a 2.5.

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Thanks for the replies guys - good information.

The sump has certainly been battered about - see image. I have a 'spare' 2000 unit which I think was the original engine, so I'll check out the condition of the sump on that, although it stood in a field for 8 years, so I'm not too hopeful.

As for the alternator bracket I'm not sure what type it is, but the fitting was pretty sketchy so I expect I'll have to remake things when I get to that point. Is there a way of identifying which type of bracket it is?

Cheers              John

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For the studs on the rocker cover just unscrew them from the head and cut them down to whatever is required.

The carb dashpots look high on yours as well,they can be changed for short ones from a TR7.
Also your rad looks a little small and way below the high point of the engine,this will cause hotspots in the head,i got round this on my Vitesse with a header tank tapped into the thermo housing,much better flow and cooling.

Agree with Clive on the electric fan,here's a picture of my 2.5 with a Spal 11 inch sucker fan,i have an inline adjustable switch in the top rad hose, and short dashpot HS6's and the header tank.The fuel pump i have is a Facet silver top with a Malpassi regulator set to 2psi.
Steve

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Steve, I like the way your shiny engine bay makes the image go all blurry 8)

Re your comment about my radiator - I thought it looked on the small side. Are there oversized options available? Or is a header tank the answer? Anyone out there with images that show either of these options?

Thanks              John

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just to say thanks to everyone for your input. All sorted! I'm going the Golf + Header tank, electric fan(s) route. I'm currently sourcing a rebuild kit for the carbs and will try to find some shorter dashpots at the same time.

I'm slowly ticking the jobs off my rebuild/ressurection list. My engine is currently away for rebore, regrind, new exhaust valve seats, valve guides, etc,etc,. Once it's back I'll be slotting it all together and will then post a few pictures to show progress...

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