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Engine build lube (graphogen)


molten

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I use good old STP oil treatment in a 50/50 mix with engine oil. smear on the crank main, big end and thrust bearings, cam bearings, cam lobes and fill/prime the oil pump with it.

Mine being a race engine it gets rebuilt every year for the last 12 and the above seems to do the job.

Andy

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AndyV wrote:
I use good old STP oil treatment in a 50/50 mix with engine oil. smear on the crank main, big end and thrust bearings, cam bearings, cam lobes and fill/prime the oil pump with it.

Mine being a race engine it gets rebuilt every year for the last 12 and the above seems to do the job.

Andy


If it works for a race engine it should be good enough for me. Cheers Andy
All new components going in (except con rods) with new mk3 grind cam from canleys.

Thanks Scott

Any one got any rebuild tips that they picked up along the way?

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Keep it clean!
double check everything (torques etc) at least 3 times. And check for tight spots as you go.
There, that was helpful wasn't it!
BTW the local engineering shop uses gear oil as assembly lube. Maybe because it withstand higher pressures? Oh, and before startup spin he oilpump with a drill to get oil pressure up. And don't let the engine idle for the first 10 (or is it 20) minutes, keep it at 2000rpm.ish.

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I used STP & as Clive mentioned, kept things scrupulously clean, washing my hands anytime I contacted dirt, dust, old grease, etc.  The engine was assembled in about 1980, & still has 20 something lbs of oil pressure at idle.  The head has been off one, maybe two times, & the day before yesterday when changing the oil a half valve retainer came out on the end of the magnetic drain plug - a frantic check under the valve cover showed all the valves still had their retainers.  I don't know where my car got it.  I think it does things like this & laughs uproariously when my back is turned.

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I use Graphogen if the engine is gong to sit around for a bit before being run or Wynns (much the same as the STP stuff) otherwise.  EP gear oil would probably be ok in that scenario as well.

Do NOT use ATF.  It's too thin and intended more as a coolant/hydraulic oil than a lubricant.

Nick

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As Nick says, all depends on hoo long engine may sit about.
I got some spray on  Bearing stuff, spray it on, let it set, and its always there,
Hot oil dissolves it, but its really good, as can turn things about,and its still lubeing things.

M

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engine wont be running very soon after rebuild as all carbs etc need assessing too.

On this basis, would you use the graphogen?
If so, how is the stuff used? Is it smeared over pistons, bores, cam & followers, bearings etc??

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Hi,
Be cautious with gear oils in engines. The additive packages sometimes contain sulphur compounds which can become extremely acidic if allowed to mix with water. Running until the oil reaches fully hot conditions is fine , but partial heating can cause acid damage quickly.
                                                                            Cheers,
                                                                            Paul

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Agree with esxefi... (Paul)

I was recommended to use vaseline for holding bearing rollers in place when re-building a gearbox by a gearbox specialist due to the way it disolves and won't harm any bronze bushes etc, so with it's lubricating properties as well it ought to be good stuff for an engine rebuild.

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I'd be careful about how much, and what you use, to lubricate the bores and rings on assembly. If you use a good quality oil with lots of ZDDP you run the risk of them being over-lubricated and consequently never bedding in properly. This could mean you could be burning oil with glazed bores forever.

It's a fine line between no lubricant and too much of the wrong kind. Many people say to use cheap oil for running in and only a very light smear on bores, pistons and rings.  However, if the engine is going to sit for a while before use it could risk the rings marking the bores in storage?

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