bodywork

[philheys100]

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Topic List Forum List Newer Older Start New Topicbodywork#1philipheys [ pm ]Phil HeysAccrington, Lancashire, United Kingdom   Posted: July 20, 2014 03:02PM
Registered: 9 months ago
Posts: 218

Hi guys, 

Next on my list is the bodywork, I am planning on a respray what things will I need? I dont need a primmer just an over spray, what grit san paper, scotch cloths etc. 

There are loads of places were I need to use filler so there is plenty of prep work. 

Any tips would be great. 

Thanks 

PS current colour carmen red going to signal red. 
Phil 

[Clive]

If using filler you will need a primer, maybe just those areas but still a primer.

Are you doing this at home? or getting some bits done elsewhere?

And I hope the filler us just used for levelling panels, not for holes (filler is porous)

Generally, before primer 400 grit wet/dry paper, and then final prep with 600-800 grade. Scotchpads are ideal if the existing surface is good.
Get a tube of acrylic stopper (not the cellulose one, that is hopeless) as it is ideal for the tiny marks that seem to appear when you put the first coat of colour on.

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/spray-painting.htm

should be helpful too

[philheys100]

Thanks for the reply,

I have a couple of holes what are your suggestion for those?

Phil

[Clive]

Cut out the rust and weld in new metal. That is the correct way.

However, it is possible to do a repair to non-structural areas by cutting out the rust, cleaning the metal back to bare, clean metal on the rear, and use fibreglass. Either matting/resin or a filler paste. These are waterproof, and will last for many many years if done correctly. Then fill and prep the surface.

[Mark Hammond]

If changing colour, especially from a dark red to a lighter red I'd prime the whole car using an etch primer, particularly if there are filled/repaired areas as red tends to bleed through the top coat and isn't a great colour for covering on repaired and spot primed areas without tinting the primer.

Mark

[byakk0]

The problem with holes....a little rust or hole on the outside almost always means a lot of rust on the inside. What photos do you have you can share with us so we can get a better idea of what you are looking at?

[philheys100]

Thanks guys,

I will post some pictures later today.

Is it possible to apply primmer from a rattle can?

Thanks

[Clive]

Possible, but not really a great way of painting a car. Better off getting a proper spraygun, even a little apollo setup will give much better results, as well as being a lot cheaper in materials.

[byakk0]

I've got a layer of rattle can primer on parts of my car as a temporary protection, but I plan on removing it and doing it with professional primer before I paint.

[philheys100]

Hi Guys,

As the space for attachments been reduced?

Well here goes pictures of the worst of the bodywork, any advice would be great.

Thanks

[philheys100]

Another

[philheys100]

The rest is not to bad.

[Clive]

Ah, looks like the normal places have got tinworm, and the bit above the lights is actually unusual.
Be prepared, get a wire brush on a grinder and the holes will get much larger.

Now is the delicate question. Are you after a top quality, good looking car (if so you need to learn to weld or pay somebody)
If you want to tidy it up, maybe with a view of revisiting in a couple of years time, fibreglass should be ok as a stopgap. Difficult to clean the metal behind the panels though. And you do need to get all the crusty stuff out. Buy an angle grinder, plus a wire brush and a facemask.

BTW the front wing has been pulled about by the looks of it, grinder may be handy there too!

[byakk0]

Don't forget to take lots of photos, before during and after. They come in very handy as references, especially when putting things back together.

[MadMitch82]

and we like to see how your progressing :)

[Black Leviathan]

8401 wrote:

Hi Guys,

As the space for attachments been reduced?

Well here goes pictures of the worst of the bodywork, any advice would be great.

Thanks

A tip to go along with the repair: After fixing this, drill a few small drain holes in the UNDERside of the boot trim, before you put it back on.

I read elsewhere that because of the shape of the trim, water runs into it from the top and fills it in part, because there are no drain holes in the underside. That water filling then runs into the boot lid between the pieces of the spot welded lip at the back of the lid.

Separate from what I read (and long before I read it) I was puzzled that every time it rained, if I opened the boot lid, water would run out from the rear edge of the lid and drip on the boot contents. It took awhile before I realized it was getting in through those spotwelds.

[philheys100]

Thanks for all the posts,

I am putting everything back together before I start on the body work, I have put back the boot lid but there seems to be a play on the catch when I close it to, I moved the catch down as far as I canbut still there is a little play and when the car runs it rattles.

Is there a technique to fitting boot lids?

Phil