jjferreira Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 Yesterday I went around for a spin, most of the time I been around I haven't had the need to turn the lights on.All was fine has the darkness started to approach I decided to turn the lights on, while I was drive i noticed a funny smell. When I got to the place where i was going I notice the lights where not on any longe, high beam does not work, and dashboard light seems not to be on anylonger, whoever if I was signalling that was working, or if I was doing light signals that was working as well.How can II find out what was wrong. Being and electrical issue, should i play it safe and take it to my local mechanic, or is there any hints you guys could give.tks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 long shot, common denominator seems to be fuse box is corroded , or the supply from the fuse box to the snap connectors at the column has failed /shorted out switches are a weak point , if you have to rewire any sections consider getting a new feed to the front with the old wires just having to trigger relays this gives eliminates any volt drop to the pointed end better lighting, and longer switch life Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjferreira Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Where about is the fuse box on the spitfire 1500 tks.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mj17 Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Under bonnet, passengers side, behind the battery.You will (should) have at least 3 fuses, but up to 5. The middle 3 are the only ones in use, the 'box just has spaces to hold two spare fuses and don't actually have any electrical contacts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjferreira Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Is this the box you where talking about. not at home at the moment but has it happens i had a photograph of that area. Will it be clear which fuse has burn,and in the worst schenario if i dont have a spare fuse where and which one do i need to get?tks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjferreira Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Just had a look and I think I found the fuse that gone. Where can I buy a replacement, also should I be concerned has the fuse gone, or could be a one off.Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjferreira Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Can any one confirm if a replace is the followinghttp://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GFS3035regards Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Yes, that's the one! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 It doesn't look burned out in the photo; check it with a cheap bargain bin multimeter to be sure.Notice that the fusebox has room for 2 spare fuses in the spaces at the top & bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 I agree that fuse has not burned out.9 times out of 10 its not the fuses that are the problem but the fuse holders, they get a bit corroded, overheat & melt the plastic fuse box & then don't make contact.Clean up the fuse box & contacts & see if there's evidence of melting, if not make sure each fuse has a good contact with all 4 contacts, 2 at each end & smear on a little vaseline to stop future corrosion.If the fuse box has melted, time for replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjferreira Posted February 16, 2010 Author Share Posted February 16, 2010 are all the 3 fuses in the fuse box the same amp? would it be a good ideia to replace them all?tks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 The only reasons to replace fuses:1. They're burned out (check with multimeter)2. They're the wrong amperageSomeone else who has a Spitfire the same year as yours will have to tell you the correct amperages.Do you not have an owners or shop manual? You can get both with a parts manual also on a CD from the Heritage Motor Centre. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjferreira Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 No I don't unfortunately I'm starting to think I got conned again on ebay been awaiting on a couple of books for the last 2 weeks :(I also got the following, recently based on the conversation in this forumhttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220547671929 - Fuseshttp://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390157860096 - MultimeterIf indeed is a fuse will this fuses work on it, last i saw on rimmer brothers i think they said 35 amps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 By the way the headlamps on the Spitfire are not fused! (apart from the flash circuit)Here's a wiring diagram: http://www.triumphspitfire.com/images/wiring/76diagram.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjferreira Posted February 17, 2010 Author Share Posted February 17, 2010 so if the headlamps are not fused what could be the problem. When I opened the bonnet the lights went on, then off again, could this be just a bad connection somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_trinda Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Earth connection from the headlights? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don cook1 Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 I have had a fair amount of trouble with the wiring and bullet connectors that lay in the front of the bonnet area. If its related to the opening of the bonnet then that's probably what it is.However, you say that you had a smell, what was this? Was it a burning smell, I think I would be a bit worried if it was. First of all open up the bonnet with the headlamps on and if they are still off then waggle the wires and connectors and if they come on or flicker then that's what it is. The other thing is that if you have been doing any work on the car you may have trapped some wiring and it's shorted? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjferreira Posted February 18, 2010 Author Share Posted February 18, 2010 I haven't been doing any work in the car at all recently, the only thing is since i got the car I hardly used the headlamps. So going to send the car to themy local mechanic, just want to make sure is nothing major :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted February 18, 2010 Share Posted February 18, 2010 My experience suggests the same as Don Cook: If the lights are intermittent with opening & closing the hood, it is likely the bullet connectors. They are rubber clumps with metal skins inside. Pieces of the metal inside the connector break off, & other things like that happen in them. I would carefully take the wires apart at the connectors under the hood, doing one connector set at a time, check to make sure the metal inside the rubber connector is still intact, check that the wire going to bullet ends is OK & not hanging off, polish the bullets with a ScotchBrite pad, as for the metal inside of the bullet connector I have a small pointy wire brush for the Dremel that gets in there, then smear the bullets with dielectric grease (sold at auto stores usually to put on battery terminals to prevent corrosion), & reassemble.The burning smell hopefully was only arcing at metal contacts in the bullet connectors.Other more horrible possibilities are that a wire in the bundle from the engine compartment to the hood is wearing & breaking. Check the bundle's condition, they should stay in good shape almost forever, originally the bundle was in a loose plastic sleeve for protection, but if that's gone, auto parts stores sell a corrugated plastic tubing for wire bundles now.And has been mentioned, check & make sure the grounds are clean & tight. On my GT6, I think the ground for the headlights is part of the bundle that attaches to the steering rack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_trinda Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 When I got my GT6 it had intermittent/dim front lights. The problem was disintegrating metal inside the rubber bullet connectors as mentioned by Rotoflex. I replaced all the rubber bullet connectors with new ones and also put back a couple of earth connections that the DPO hadn't bothered to fit ??) ??) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjferreira Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 Hya here is a pic of what is under my bonnet, where about are those metal bit you guys are on about.Still havent got my books form ebay, so i'm a bit on the darktks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_trinda Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 Follow the wiring harness thats on the left of the radiator forwards and you should find the bullet connectors which joint the wiring loom to the lights/indicators/horn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_trinda Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 This is what you are looking for......its the metal bit inside these that fall to bits! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjferreira Posted February 19, 2010 Author Share Posted February 19, 2010 Many thanks for that, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 When you disconnect the wires at those connectors, it's best to use a pair of skinny needle-nose pliers to reach into the rubber connector & grab the metal bullet that is attached to the end of the wire (not the metal part which is a part of the rubber connector). Pull the wire out by the metal bullet on the end of the wire, held by the needle-nose pliers. This reduces the chance of damaging the connection of the wire to the bullet.----Can we have a better photo of the fuel line junction in front of the front carburetor? That looks sort of scary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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