TR6 halogen headlights

[CotswoldClassicCar]

Guys, our '74 TR6 has halogen headlights - the switch has failed (it's FRIED!) - the nice AA man suggested that the uprated halogen lamp set-up draws a greater current and thus a new switch should be fitted, together with a suitable relay. Does this make sense? Have sourced a new cabin switch but thought I'd just bounce the relay idea around. Presume that aside from saving the new switch from frying, the relay would actually serve to make the lamps more efficient...? E J Wards 'do' a relay (to allow all 4 Stag lamps to be 'on', simultaneously) so this could be a route to investigate. Marcus, what do you think? HEHEHEHEHEHEHEHEHE

[michael]

two relays one for main and one for dip regards michael

[stagnant]

Fried lamp switch on the TR6 is not unusual, so relay is definately the way to go. The 'clear hooters' switch was difficult to get hold a while back, but I think they're available again now? I'd also suggest a relay with fuel pump, particularly if you've got a Bosch upgrade as that has a habit of frying the ignition switch/wiring. Ditto electric fan if fitted and run off the loom. Ideally all the new heavy duty stuff should be run off a seperate loom direct from the battery with all electrical components switched via relay as the original wiring wasn't designed to cope.

[gilesdive]

If it is still just a 55 watt bulb, it takes the same current whether it is halogen or not (it just makes things brighter).
Having said that, relays and nice new thick wire is the best way to go - less voltage drop in the wiring gives more light out the front. As said above, the switches were not exactly aerospace quality and do fail sometimes; reducing the current through them should help.

[Deleted User]

Fit relays. Old non halogen 7" headlights were 60/45w IIRC, modern twin filament halogen bulbs draw 60/65w, an extra 20w does not sit well with wiring and switchgear that was not top spec even when new.