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Posted

can anyone help

i have a number of challenges with my mk2 vitesse stromberg 150 carbs

1. engine runs smooth but at 900 to 1000 revs, (choke off) but this is with all carb adjustment wound completley off, how do i get the revs down and be able to setup the carbs using adjusters? (floats setup to 18mm) running without air filters at moment, will this make enough difference?

2. Needle valves come with 3 washers, how do you determine which to use?

3. front carb floods through air intake after running and switch off.

hopefully, there are wiser vitesse guru's out there.

Posted

1. The choke running adjustment screw maybe wound out enough, so when the chokes off, the screw still won't allow minimum setting of the carbs via the normal idle adjustments. There are 2 screws on each carbs for normal idle setting, make sure they're both wound out to get a lower idle.

2. Do you have the old washer to compare? What is the difference between the washers in thickness?

3. Have you checked the float is ok and not got a hole/ break and filled with some fuel? Give it a good shake and if any fuel in it you'll here/ feel it.

Posted

I don't know if this will be of any help to you but I had a similar problem with a fast tick over when I was recommissioning my Mk1 Vitesse. In the end I traced it to the carb piston not returning all the way down to the bridge, effectively behaving as if the adjustment screw was in too far, but they were screwed fully out, as was the choke (which in fact was completely disconnected at this point). With the carbs off the car it was obvious to see. I cured it by carefully polishing the pistons with 2000grit wet and dry and then using a metal polish to finish them off. They run a treat now.
Strombergs can be a bit of a bitch to set up but I think that generally they're a good carb.

Posted

all depression carbs are as simple or complicated as you want to make them  both su and stromberg do a good job, I always feel the stroms are a better engineered bit of kit, just strip bothe and lay the parts out and you can see there's a different mind set

one god site for clues and cracking photo's is http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

never mind they are 'not my car' the details are common to all sizes just some evolution changes , but the gist of all you need to know is covered in here.
except for the twin armed float and which way up you can fit it.   in essence !! the float  flat side is always at the bottom .and sits at an angle with the 18mm heght .

Petel

Posted

I had a similar problem too - I disconnected the carbs from the accelerator linkage, and also from each other so they were completely independent.

With the idle and choke adjustments screwed way out of the way, ensure that both butterflies click solidly closed without much effort. If they wedge or get jammed a bit, the springs on the linkage are unlikely to be able to pull them completely shut by themselves.

If that's the case, I took the pair off the car and ever-so-slightly loosened the butterfly screws so that it was just free, then re-centred them in bodies and did them back up. Jobs a good'un!

I have also found that the bottom manifold to stud bolts can be looser than they should, not sure how they wiggle themselves so loose though.. so it might be worth checking them too :)

Cheers, Mike

Posted

thanks chaps, plenty of ideas to keep me going this weekend, interestingly my rear piston does stick sometimes so that might be a good starting point.

choke would fully in, absoluty no stops in use at present!!

but, although its running like this now, it was the same before i stripped, cleaned and serviced the carbs. whatever i have done, it seems its not changed from when i got it and it hand been stood for nearly 15 years!!!

the floats upside down is worth checking as well

Posted

are you sure none of the breather holes on the outer facde are not obstructed by gaskets filters etc..??

are the throttle plate discs the right way round ???

does this have the overun valves fitted to the throttle discs ???

Pete

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