NickinSussex Posted June 2, 2015 Posted June 2, 2015 Thanks guysWhat I meant by contour was the curve of the door skin from top to bottom which is flatter that the original door skin. In other words if you lay the new skin over the door frame with the skin removed the skin does not sit on the frame and will need to be bent quite a bit to fit, particularly near the top of the door skin. The bending is made more difficult because of the edge lip around the edge of the door which is 90 degrees to the skin and acts like a strengthener.Any more thoughts? Quote
John Bonnett Posted June 2, 2015 Posted June 2, 2015 Quoted from NickinSussex Thanks guysWhat I meant by contour was the curve of the door skin from top to bottom which is flatter that the original door skin. In other words if you lay the new skin over the door frame with the skin removed the skin does not sit on the frame and will need to be bent quite a bit to fit, particularly near the top of the door skin. The bending is made more difficult because of the edge lip around the edge of the door which is 90 degrees to the skin and acts like a strengthener.Any more thoughts? I'd be tempted to return the panel to the supplier. Ask him to check if all his skins are the same. These parts should fit or be pretty close but it sounds from what you say that it's a mile off. We shouldn't put up with rubbish. Mark would probably make one or two skins for you for the same or not much more than you paid for what you have. His panels really do fit. Quote
daedalusminos Posted June 3, 2015 Posted June 3, 2015 I agree with John, I fitted a Steelcraft skin to a MK1 GT6 some years ago and it was a perfect fit Quote
daedalusminos Posted June 3, 2015 Posted June 3, 2015 I agree with John, I fitted a Steelcraft skin to a MK1 GT6 some years ago and it was a perfect fit Quote
RobPearce Posted June 3, 2015 Posted June 3, 2015 The ones I fitted to Toby recently were not a perfect fit but not far out. They just needed a small amount of persuading round before crimping - starting by locating and tack welding the top edge (factory spec was brazed at either end of the window slot) left the bottom sitting a couple of inches out, but hand pressure was enough to bring that into place. Then tap over and crimp all the edges.That said, my recollection of doing a Mk2 Spit back in the early 1990s was that those skins fitted better. Quote
RobPearce Posted June 3, 2015 Posted June 3, 2015 The ones I fitted to Toby recently were not a perfect fit but not far out. They just needed a small amount of persuading round before crimping - starting by locating and tack welding the top edge (factory spec was brazed at either end of the window slot) left the bottom sitting a couple of inches out, but hand pressure was enough to bring that into place. Then tap over and crimp all the edges.That said, my recollection of doing a Mk2 Spit back in the early 1990s was that those skins fitted better. Quote
NickinSussex Posted June 3, 2015 Author Posted June 3, 2015 Thanks for the replies.I bought the door skins some 8 months ago so I am not sure that the supplier would consider taking back and giving me credit or replacing the skins.I want to get on with the job so I will consider what Rob suggests and make an assessment as to whether it looks like the skin can be bent to shape after fixing at the top. I can see that, in theory, the skin will become more flexible as the edges are bent flat over the edge of the door frame.Thanks againNick Quote
NickinSussex Posted June 3, 2015 Author Posted June 3, 2015 Thanks for the replies.I bought the door skins some 8 months ago so I am not sure that the supplier would consider taking back and giving me credit or replacing the skins.I want to get on with the job so I will consider what Rob suggests and make an assessment as to whether it looks like the skin can be bent to shape after fixing at the top. I can see that, in theory, the skin will become more flexible as the edges are bent flat over the edge of the door frame.Thanks againNick Quote
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