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Tom2000

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Posted

Ever since I got my spitfire the edges of my doors ever so slightly catch the paintwork. On both doors there is "freeplay" if I try and move the doors up and down, one not so much (but still enough) and then the drivers side which is the worst I can move quite alot vertically up and down.

I've got a complete brand new hinge setup for both doors (cost me £100!), do I: pay someone to professionally put the doors on or do it myself, if I do it myself i'll get some help from a mate for the day, do I need to weld in braces between the door ways? As I do not have a welder..

This is now the only real thing that I need to sort bodywork wise.

Posted

The braces are used when you work on the sill as it stops the car distorting. If you're replacing your hinges then they're not needed. Otherwise you'd need to brace your door gaps every time you got in and out of the car. ;)

Dead easy to do. Undo the hinge bolts, remove the door, put new hinges on and then adjust it by loosening the hinge bolts and moving the door around bit by bit until you're happy with the fit. You can do it yourself but if you've got a mate who is free then rope him in to hold the door so it doesn't clatter to the ground.

Posted

i took my doors off to spray them, and putting them on is very easy, even for somebody like me who knows nothing about what they're doing ;D

unfortuantely, whoever replaced the sills in my car didnt brace it, and ive got some gaps i cant get rid of, and the passenger door rubs quite heavily at its bottom rear corner. pain in the arse, but not much i can do about it.

but yeah, paying somebody to put the doors on would be a waste of cash.

Posted

Thanks guys, my sills have been replaced as well and I suspect they may well have not been braced when they were replaced :( - We'll see when I do the doors!

either way I know I can make them better than they are, if they do still ever so slightly rub or catch, is there any sort of rubber or cover I could put on the ends of the doors to help protect against breaking the paint work?

Posted

Tom, you can adjust the doors by loosening off the bolts (3 on each hinge) and finding a point that makes the door close and open without rubbing on the sill ledge. The hinges attach to threaded metal plates behind the A posts and these can be moved by loosening off the bolts. I have been doing the same thing as my hinges are past their best.

The door stiker plate can also be moved in/out up/down so that the door closes neatly. This is always a compromise between all the different angles/gaps (etc). My doors seem to be slightly to long for the door aperture so I am having to move the hinges forward to create a decent gap and stop the door fouling the B-post. My driver's door rubs the sill and this is due to a worn hinge (awaiting replacement) and moving the top hinge slightly further forward.

I have found it possible to do the adjustment myself. A helper would be handy.

Open bonnet.
Open door place old towel or cloth with reasonable thickness along top of sill.
Close door again.
Loosen off bolts holding hinges to body.
Adjust door position by heaving it around compromising gap to B-post and sill.
Tighten up bolts.
Try opening and closing door after removing sill protecting towel/cloth.
Adjust door striker plate if necessary.

Repeat the above steps if things aren't quite right.

The thing is that this is difficult with door hinges that are letting the door droop. You really need to get new hinges in place. I have replaced 2 (1 each side) but am awaiting 2 further hinges to complete the job.

My passenger side is pretty spot on now. Driver's side still needs fettling.

Best of luck, Neil

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi Guys,

Wheres the best place to get the hinges from - cause I think my problem with the doors is sounding similar and that a good starting place would be new hinges (are they expensive?)

kind regards,

Bob :)

Posted

105 wrote:
new hinges (are they expensive?)

About £15 each new or if you're skint get some s/h ones off a passenger door, they don't tend to be worn (feel them before you buy)

Posted

Got a similar problem on mine which is something i will do when i get round to it! lol!

The spit chassis is a herald one with the outriggers removed to make it lower, that you probably already know, but this makes the sills the main strength point, and if they have gone, or been replaced without bracing the door gao, the car will actually fold up slightly. This will casue the door apeture to shorten and the door not fit.

Ways around this include a couple of blocks of wood, and a porta power to stretch them open again (bit of a rough way but works) or failing that redo the sills again, bracing the doors this time. You may need to measure the door apeture of a perfect one and use that as a guide to the mm.

UK cars usually have a 4mm tolerance, however spits and the e-type both have to be spot on!

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