Door Lock Removal

[JSBulmer]

1968 GT6 MKI

How in the heck does a person remove the door lock?  Or according to the Workshop Manual how do you remove the Private Lock and spring clip???

I removed the liner (thanks for the tip Fizzy) and took off the lock set at the side of the door but can not get the private lock and spring clip to move.

Assistance greatly appreciated.  I have added some photos of the interior of the door.

I have ordered a complete lock set for the car but figured if I could get the existing ones re-keyed I might save a few sheckles.  But need to get the private lock out of there first.

Thanks

[JSBulmer]

WOW, feeling pretty happy with myself.  Was able to get the door lock out.  Just needed to read a bit more within the Workshop Manual.

Now to see if I can get someone to rekey the locks that I have.

jb

[thescrapman]

Don't bother trying to get them re-keyed, they will be totally shagged after 40+ years.

They were made out of soft metal to start with, a big screwdriver would usually overcome the levers, or the spring clip on the back.

Cheers

Colin

[JSBulmer]

Colin

The locksmith all but told me the same thing.

I have a complete set on order from Victoria British (bonnet, boot, door and ignition).  At least if I change them all out then I will know what type of key I have and where to get spare key blanks.

Not sure about the bonnet lock as I don't know how to install it and do not want to drill in to the body at all.

jb

[drofgum]

John,
Bonnet locks require drilling holes (of about the same size as the lock holes in the doors), in the bonnet in the vicinity of the bonnet catches. Unless of course, your car has already been fitted with them.
                                                              Cheers,
                                                              Paul

[rotoflex]

Bonnet locks did not originally come on the car.  

I've thought often about getting some, but were put off by needing to cut holes in the bonnet and the fact that the appearance of the car would be changed.

Over the years, nobody stolen the battery, so -- OK.

I wish some bright engineering person would come up with a locking mechanism that doesn't require putting holes in the bonnet.

[JSBulmer]

Roto

Am of the same mindset.  The bonnet locks will come as part of the package that I ordered so will see what to do with them when they are here.

jb

[junkuser]

4" barrel bolts mounted on the front of the square section below the A pillar with the end going through the bodywork to engage with a bracket on the inside of the bonnet is one way.

Did this after someone had interfered with the engine.

Will post pics if anyone is interested.

[rotoflex]

Yes, I would like to see that.

[junkuser]

Not the prettiest bits of the Spit but functional.
The opening for the bonnet catch reinforcement was done at rebuild as there was cracking and flexing around this area and the shabby barrel bolt was just one in my junk.
The interior shot shows the bolt in the unlocked position, it is not visible when locked.
The hook on the end of the barrel bolt is to prevent the bonnet from being pulled out and over the end of the bolt from outside when locked.  The bolt is moved into the locked position with this pointing upward.
Locks are fitted to both sides of car but one side would probably suffice.

[junkuser]

Somehow messed up on posting the pics and only the bonnet bracket one posted so hopefully here are the others.
Seem only to be getting one pic on at a time so this is bolt from inside in unlocked position.

[junkuser]

Bolt mounting

[junkuser]

Bolt end shape in locked position

[rotoflex]

Thanks for the photos.  That's clever.  It also looks like insurance for those whose bonnet catches are worn and don't stay down.

[JSBulmer]

Quick update

Lock set arrived from Victoria British this week.  Managed to get the driver's door lock installed and all the trim pieces back together.  Also got the boot lock done, which was more of a challenge as the new unit didn't fit 100 % on to the car (ended up drilling out the lock barrel on the old unit to scavenge a part).

Also turned the triumph emblem the right way round on the bonnet - this had been pointed out on an earlier post.  Its a bit of an annoyance as I have photos from a 1989 restoration of the car that had everything done proper.  Sometime after that a former owner decided to invert the emblem and squeeze the spacing on the bonnet lettering.  They only glued the lettering on and simply filled the old holes with filler.  Will order up a new lettering set (with the studs) and then drill out the filler in the existing holes.  Then at least the car will look a bit more normal.

Question - is there a good resource for the spacing of the bonnet and boot lettering?

Thanks

jb