67 Mk1 GT6 restoration

[John Bonnett]

Quoted from byakk0

I've also discovered my hatch needs to shift to the left about 1/8"~3/16". Anyone have any ideas how to do that? I've loosened the bolts at the hatch-to-spring and the spring-to-roof and there doesn't seem to be any sort of right-left adjustment.

Odd I know but I had the same problem and found that packing between one hinge and the tailgate solved the problem. I still don't know why but it worked.

[byakk0]

Quoted from John Bonnett

Odd I know but I had the same problem and found that packing between one hinge and the tailgate solved the problem. I still don't know why but it worked.

I was wondering the same. I actually tried that earlier for a different problem and it didn't work so I removed the packing. Too bad I didn't notice this issue then.

[byakk0]

Been in the triple digits this week (over 37°C) and as luck would have it the compressor on my house AC took a dive so its a new system all around, hopefully. The unit was installed in 78 so it's got a lot of miles on it, so to  speak. So, I haven't had the time to devote I was hoping for.

So, I did some work on the rear deck boards. Picked up some steel rivets to transfer the hardware over. My steel rail will come in handy for beating these suckers on with.


My little helper comparing the new and the old.


I placed a square on the brackets for the jack handle to get measurements. I didn't need them in the end, but the reference may come in handy for someone.




All assembled and Abby approves. The paint is a bit stripey, so I may roll on some flat black later to get a uniform coat. I decided not to repaint the metal. There's not much on my car with any original paint, so I thought it fitting to leave them as is.




Set in place, with Abby doing some modeling for me.

[John Bonnett]

Nice piece of work Hazen. A really useful flat load area.

[byakk0]

I'm contemplating making a faux rear seat, in that the upper portion hinges in the same manner as opposed to just lifting completely out. Faux in that it will be storage and only the upper half of the seat.
I dunno, just my brain working OT when I'm not able to actively work on the car.

[byakk0]

Got my new carpet... Now another stage of fun begins, getting it shaped around all those contours.

It's Overton's Marine grade 20 oz Malibu cut pile, color is Midnight.



Comparison in quality and color against the Eldorado
Front for the color



And the backing. The Malibu had more coverage of whatever they use for backing. Hopefully it won't fray on me.


quick comparison against the body color and arm rest


Laying it out.


Making adjustments to the striker


And a rough fit.
I likely can't go much further on it today than this, but I gotta do something!

[byakk0]

I've got bits of the rear end so it came in handy for fitting the carpet outside the car, at a good working level without having to hunch over in the car. It was truly a back-saver.

Got them rough fit using some stiff paper and transfered that to the carpet.




And test fitting in my car. Still a little trimming to do, but close.
I'm contemplating sewing the two together, but I'm not entirely sure if that is a good idea. Thoughts?

[byakk0]

You may recall from an earlier post I was testing the quality of the El-dorado style carpet.
The following was a floor mat I made for my van, just to see how it would hold up with frequent use.
The front-side, with a few bits where the carpet balled up.


Backside


And a color comparison. I like the lighter grey color much better.

[byakk0]

I set out today with the intention of getting my car licensed. Thankfully the DOT is literally right across the street, but I didn't get that far.

I've had troubles with my turn signals, primarily that of the right ones, and not flashing or even turning on. It's not the flasher, because the left side works on the flasher clicks.

So, I removed the cowls from around the steering column and loosened the switch. With the repairs I recently made I was hoping it would be something simple...
Not so. See the culprit? Not gonna be able to fix it without removing it.


Yep, a severed connection.


Thankfully I already had experience taking these apart and the repair was a snap.


I also needed to reinstall the brake lenses and housings, and with that complete I hopped in to fire it up and...
...the choke knob broke off in my hand.
It sheered off right at a hole drilled in it for a retaining pin.
Fortunately I managed to pull it out with some vice-grips.
...So that means I am now in the market for a dual-choke cable setup. Anyone know of any sources? I think I've seen them for sale somewhere but it slips my mind right now.



In the mean time,
Abby had her own ideas.

[byakk0]

I finally got the door window scrapers so I can put them back together properly, but the passenger side needs painted on the inside still. I discovered it has a dent causing the inner side of the opening to bow. I ended up using welding vice-grips and some angle iron to raise the dent.
I got it primed and then my spray tip on my paint clogged and I need a new one, so I didn't get it painted today.


Bit of dent here. Believe me, its there.


See how bad it's bowing?



Clamped up. I just worked my way in from the outside edges. I hit it with a little heat too.


Primed and ready to go.


Still a bit of a bow, but I think I can live with it.


All painted, on the inside.

[byakk0]

I think I'm starting to take after John Bonnet. In between coats of primer and paint on my door I decided to tackle my seriously mangled transmission tunnel.
Now, before you start telling me, I am aware aftermarket and ABS and fiberglass are available. This is purely an exercise in metal bashing and 'can I do it'.
It will no doubt need sound deadening, and in the end I may purchase a preformed unit, but until then, here you go.

I tried holding it together with duct-tape. It's so dirty and oily that didn't help any, but at least the form is close enough.










I decided not to form the depression in the top. Does it even serve a purpose?








And this portion rough fit. Looks like its good so far.

[chunky63]

Very nice work Hazen, as always 🙂

Top cubby tray was probably a left over from the Herald where its easy to store your flat cap and cigars

[John Bonnett]

Ditto that Hazen. Coming on nicely and best of all it's your own work at a fraction of the cost of buying one. But you do realise that metal shaping is highly addictive and right now you're on the slippery slope 🙂

[byakk0]

I'm afraid it's too late for me John. I started sliding the moment I bought a welder.

[Nick Jones]

I always thought the tunnel cover was a very hard thing to make.  Then I left Chris alone for a few hours (well more like a couple of days probably) and he made the one in the middle, based on the raggedly remains on the left.  Thing was, he only wanted it as a former to create the thing on the right......  It's very light and fits too.  We still have the former..... which is good because the GT6 needs one too - and so does the Vitesse though that needs a different shape at the back due to a certain fat Toyota 'box.

Nick

[byakk0]

not bad. you definitely had a better starting point than I. But don't forget the bulge in the side for the starter.

[byakk0]

more work on the cover today.

made a paper template to transfer the pattern and cut out the steel.



Then started shaping the panel.


I marked and trimmed the excess off and tack welded it.


tacking the new panel in


trimmed the excess off of this side and tack welded.


Took the piece I cut off and added contours.




Last patch added and tacked.


Test fit


side by side. Still have the hole around the shifter to work on and add the mounting flange.

[BiTurbo228]

Nice work! I've got all of this to come so it's all useful stuff

I was thinking of trying to make mine from fibreglass. What was the thinking for going with steel? A more familiar material to work with?

Nice work on straightening the door to. It's that sort of attention to detail that'll mean this should be a rather lovely car when you're done with it

[byakk0]

I've actually had an offer from a US  manufacturer of the ABS covers to buy one for well below retail, which is a great bargain.
I contemplated FRP but its messy and cost of supplies for something that size that is already reproduced aftermarket makes it pointless (to me) to attempt.
I've taken a liking to metal fabrication, so its primarily an exercise and practice for me, especially as the final product will be hidden from view and thus any unsightly blemishes will be hidden. Fabricating this from steel is certainly not saving me any time, though the metal has only cost me around $20.

[byakk0]

Well John, Looks like I'm a lost cause. I started out yesterday attempting to use a 4x6 post as a shaping stump and finished the day with a nearly completed panel, and I picked up a stump I can make some depressions in for shaping.



Wheeling the panel






Here's a video for those interested in what a metal shaping stump is...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TlH_oJATpig

[John Bonnett]

Don't say I didn't warn you Hazen. 🙂 Well done on yer. You really are spoiled in the States for metal shaping tools at amazingly cheap prices and you've got some seriously skilled guys doing amazing work. Plenty of videos too. In the video you highlighted he mentions David Gardner's DVD which I have and found really helpful. David is British but he does contribute on the Metalmeet forum along with other greats including Peter Tomassini and Wray Shelin. Well worth a look at. If you are interested, here's the link to David's site. https://www.classicmetalshaping.co.uk/dvd/

I'm no expert at tuck shrinking but it is a very effective way to shrink metal quickly.. Wray Shelin makes it look so easy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LGQ7JKpMIs0

I bought a Harbor Freight  pneumatic planishing hammer a few years ago.  I can't remember what I paid for it but I notice Frost are selling it for 400GBP and in the States you can get them for ninety nine bucks. Harbor Freight are not noted for their quality but I've found it a really useful addition to my workshop.

Keep up the good work,

cheers John

[byakk0]

I really need to get that dvd. Been meaning to. I frequent metalmeet too. Excellent source. I wouldn't have been able to get this far with out it.
Need to figure out the tuck shrinking. I'll get there. I may not need it with this piece, but the next bit of whatever I decide to shape, who knows.
As for power tools, I need electric ones right now. believe it or not I've done my entire resto without the use of a compressor, and one is not in the budget right now. Sure could use one though...

[John Bonnett]

[quote=7952]I really need to get that dvd. Been meaning to. I frequent metalmeet too. Excellent source. I wouldn't have been able to get this far with out it.
Need to figure out the tuck shrinking. I'll get there. I may not need it with this piece, but the next bit of whatever I decide to shape, who knows.
As for power tools, I need electric ones right now. believe it or not I've done my entire resto without the use of a compressor, and one is not in the budget right now. Sure could use one though...[/quote

In his video, David demonstrates amazing work just using hand tools that most people have. I have found the US Tools stretcher/shrinker very useful and has a place alongside tuck shrinking. Foot pedal operation would have made it better. Not a huge job to modify it though.

[byakk0]

Little more progress. I got everything basically shaped, just need to form 2 rounded corners and weld it all, plus add the mounting flange.

I started out the day using a tipping tool to ease the edge of the piece I wheeled to a rough 45-90 degree (angle depends on location of contact)



When I started I thought maybe I should attempt welding a little more steel back on as tipping the narrow strip was difficult--not enough to effectively grab and bend, but in the end I managed.




There is a minor gap, but sometimes it's hard to be precise, especially when you're flying by the seat of your pants..ie, onsite engineering. (call it what you will )


Lots of trimming and bending brought this area to the correct shape. I did the same to the other side


I then started fitting the 3 pieces together by marking and trimming the excess and butt welded them.




A close-up of the dressed welds. The pictures certainly improve the look and quality.




And a side by side for comparison.
I need to complete those two rounded corners, build the flange, and finish welding.


And, a test fit in the car. Those of you with a keen eye will notice its a tad narrow at the firewall. That's ok, I'll be able to widen it  correctly when I add the flange.
This is all 20 ga steel. I'm thinking of doing the flange in 16, for strength and rigidity.

[BiTurbo228]

Great work Hazen I really must have a go at metal forming. Seems like a rather useful skill...