67 Mk1 GT6 restoration

[junkuser]

Can't tell from the pictures if the chrome is through.
Recoverable if not but not if it is.

You're making great progress, congrats.

[Phwoar]

Washing machine to GT6, love it!

I'm a big fan of compressed air to remove brake cylinders. 🙂

Cheers, James

[byakk0]

Quoted from Phwoar

Washing machine to GT6, love it!

I'm a big fan of compressed air to remove brake cylinders. 🙂

Cheers, James

I'd used the tool already and had no further need of it. Better to make it for nothing and not have it work, than pay 40 quid for one that doesnt work

I would have gone the compressor route, but I dont have one.

[byakk0]

Got a list made up of brake parts I will need. Now to determine just who to buy from, James Paddock or someone here in the US. Barring shipping, Paddock has the best prices of anyone.
That said, does anyone have any experience with their brake pistons? http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/parts.aspx?categoryID=22&vehicleId=4
(P type caliper, part 510792)
Some available from other vendors are steel, stainless, and nitride coated steel. The stainless look to be the most expensive.

Anyway, I started building a rotisserie this week. So far I only have the one end built.


Ignore the mess. My restoration is hampered by my overly-small garage. Storage happens in unique places.

[byakk0]

Got a little bit more work done on the rotisserie this week.

I am running 2x4s under both sides just inside the rockers for strength long ways. I would use the extra chassis I have, but I need to get at locations the chassis would cover. I want to prevent unneeded twisting, so I am going the 2x4 route, bolting them to the metal ends and the body mounting points.

I did not take into account the depth of the floor pan, so my initial design had the 2x4 running right to the front mounting point. I discovered today the depth of the floor pan added an unaccounted for extra 1.5 inches. Adding an extra lengths of steel tube and a small spacer is the method I used to over come it. Additionally, the 2x4 runs right to the back, where I intend to mount it to the bumper attachment points in the trunk(boot). Still working out how to connect the 2x4 to the block bolted to the underside. Probably will go with a construction nail plate.

Also, I will connect it to the radius arm points, if I can figure it out.

Modified the front piece. Compare it to the previous photo. (Ignore the board in the middle. It is not part of the design)


Adding more tube to the old was easier than cutting the welds and replacing with a longer one. It will add strength anyway, and added some space between the 2x4 and the tube. I just needed a 1/2" spacer to add to it.


I drilled a piece of 2.5x3" L steel to bolt to the floor of the boot at the bumper mounting points, and drilled the other side of the steel to mount a 2x4 block. I still need to connect the block to the board it is resting on. This is the one I may use the construction nail plate on, or, I may eliminate it all together and weld another piece of the 2.5x3 steel to the one I already have there, in the shape of a Z so the board rests on top of it. I'll play with it and see if I like it.


From the underside. I still need to fit the off-side wing. (LHD car, so that would be nearside on a RHD. 😉 )


Doesn't look like much, but I did get a lot done this week, though, naturally not as much as I would have liked.

[byakk0]

More progress on the mounts...not as much as I would like, but I am moving forward.

see my journal for more info. http://www.triumphexp.com/journal/byakk0/11719

Here is the final bracket for the backend, 2.5"x3" 3/16" L-metal, cut to 5" in length.


Anyway, I dumped the idea of the wooden block and just used another piece of L-metal. I got the 2 peices fit together just right, and then clamped them tightly so I could weld them together.
Drilled it, and ran the bolts through the board and the bracket. Works great, and I feel it will be much stronger than couple of grabber screws connecting the block to the main 2x4 rail would ever be.

This is viewed from from underneath, behind the tub.


And the view from the wheel-well. You can clearly see the 2 bolts connecting the bracket to the trunk floor
I am wondering if I should fit a spacer in there so I don't cave in the floor-I probably will, if nothing else just for the peace-of-mind.

[byakk0]

Okay, I think I have the final design for the rotisserie. I've already got most of the tub support completed. I still need to build the lower cradle (or whatever it may be called). It may end up with a few more modifications, plus I did not include casters in the drawings. The pivot point will probably be 1/2" bolts of some sort, with an 8 (or more) point stop system, so I can rotate it full 360 degrees and stop pretty much where I need. I took measurements from a friend's already researched data, and the pivot point will be at 10" from the bottom of the tub support, with the bottom of the tub support being about 36" from the ground, needed clearance for me to roll my chassis underneath, hence the inverted Y shape on the one end. Design is based on items I have on hand. I'll get some measurements up later. This is just a basic idea and nowhere drawn to scale, so it may look a little tall. The wire-frame pics show the rough design and individual components better than the completed assembly. You can see from my previous photos where each of the brackets in the drawing mount to the tub.

[byakk0]

Here's another pic of Abby for you.

growing like a weed and keeping me busy

[byakk0]

A few more pics. I'm taking notes of my measurements, and will post them as I go on my journal here --> http://www.triumphexp.com/journal/byakk0/11734

[byakk0]

Its been a few minutes since I last posted, but don't worry, I haven't forgotten about updating this thread. Been working on other non-car projects, but mostly just have not had much time spend on it, unfortunately. Abby keeps me busy in my time off, giving my wife a break and all.
Anyway, I managed to steal a few minutes today and built more on the rotisserie.

[byakk0]

Modified the rear brackets by welding washers for spacers to the tops.


The are needed so as to not crush the bracket for mounting the rear bumpers.


Here it is ready to weld. Ran out of good weather, as my driveway serves as workspace. The pivot point is the black dot right near the level. I don't have it drilled in this photo.


Abby decided to lend me a hand.

[byakk0]

Trimmed the boards and have them laid out. Made some mis-cuts so I need to fix that.
As my dad likes to say 'I cut it twice and it is still too short'

[John Bonnett]

A great piece of work Hazen. I'm looking forward to seeing it in action.

[byakk0]

I'm slowly getting getting there John. Took cues from your setup attaching to the radius arm mounts. Wanted to work on it today before work (night job) but my dad borrowed back his own drill I have been borrowing. I need a new cordless as mine will only last about 15 minutes, if I'm lucky.

Life gets seriously in the way right now. Over the past month or so I've been lucky to get even 10 minutes a week to work on it. (no joke). It's mainly school and giving my wife a break with the baby. She getting big, but only thinks she's big enough to help. Not complaining, mind you. It's just the way it is right now.


Last year December


This December

[Spit131]

Sweet , the growing hand pictures are a nice way to record change .

[byakk0]

Mostly assembled. Still need the casters.
     
     
     Rear rotation point. I had to add a 3" tube/extender because of the stabilization feet that connect the metal to the 2x4's.
     Center pivot is 1/2" threaded rod, the tube is a 1/2" steel pipe.
     
     
     
     
     
     
     
     front rotation point. The plate has 8 points. I could have made more, but drilling all those holes was tedious so I stopped. Originally was going to have about 16.
     
     
     Closeup. Again, 1/2 threaded rod.
     
     
     At first I was going to just leave the hole and put a nut on the bolt once I had the position selected, but as you can see in the first photo the upright gets in the way of two positions, so I welded captive nuts to the backside. I just need to add a spacer then I can weld the plate to the upright.
     The angle iron gets bolted to the double 2x4 upright of the main wooden frame, and the threaded rod goes through that.
     

[byakk0]

Finished* all the welding and attempted to assemble the full rotisserie today.
In case you are wondering, my thinking/intended method is this: The pivot points on my support structure sit a little higher than than where they are on the tub as it currently sits. I'll jack up the tub to meet the support structure/cradle, and when it is fully attached it will then be lifted away from the rolling support cart, and I can then dismantle that.

*like the backend, I realized after the fact I need to add a 2 or 3 inch spacer tub to the front pivot point. Still need to make this modification.


Front pivot point, and the connecting bar that runs from front to back. Again, the bar is to keep the tops of the pivots from leaning in toward each other. Thinking about it as I type I may want to put a steel bar in there instead of this hunk of wood that may bow...Hmmm....

~~storage happens in convenient/odd locations.


On the cart. Ignore the storage. I'll remove everything before I flip it over. But I need to find storage for that stuff in the mean time...



Here I have the backend jacked up and the rear portion attached. You'll notice there are no rails connecting the back to the front, nor casters. I plan on adding the casters to the connecting rails, and then attaching those to the uprights. It turns out different, but at this point you can see how it is supposed to work.



Front end with the support pivot roughly in place. You can see how far I need to jack it up. Pivot height is the same on the front as it is in the back, but it would appear my thrown together cart is lower in the front. Guess that's what I get for eyeballing the structure. I don't think I used a tape on it once. Funny thing. I was standing on the back end of it removing the hatch and I needed some help so I didn't drop the glass and asked my boy to climb up on the other side. He said "No offense dad, but I don't trust your building." X( He did say he trusts my welding, though. He got the ladder instead.



Pivot point and lock mechanism in action.







Once I had the backend up I got the casters attached to the connecting rails. I realized the connecting rails were too short as I measured their length based on the distance of front pivot point to rear pivot point, both the parts bolted to the car. I neglected to include the support framework and cut the boards accordingly, shorting myself about a foot or so. I realized about 10 minutes after I made the cuts.
Yesterdays measurements show I need two 10 foot 2x4's.

At first I thought I would just go with it, cut the boards I have and scab extra length onto each in the middle. It may work, but I'm afraid the boards will bow, or in someway cause unneeded weakness, so I'll get 2 2x4 10's and relieve that worry.

The other realization I came to is that the rear structure is not yet sturdy enough. Details on my intended modifications to come.

[byakk0]

only a tiny bit more progress this week due to being out of town for Christmas, and having it snow while I was working prevented me from attempting to attach the rotisserie to the tub.

I added some 2x4's and Simpson strong ties to the framework for strength.

[byakk0]

I have completed the rotisserie. It spins freely and shall work nicely for the work I need to do on the underside.
The design is such that I can roll it over my rolling chassis for easy storage in my narrow garage. It's been a long process, and I am glad to have this stage completed.

See it in action here, although I am working on a much more detailed video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LJtZmijpvE&feature=youtu.be

[John Bonnett]

That's are really nice and well thought out solution Hazen and the balance point must be spot on; it spins so easily. Great stuff.

[byakk0]

Thanks John.  I borrowed a little of your design,  mounting to the radius arm points. I would had it completed months ago,  but some days,  or even weeks,  I get literally about 10 minutes of working time.  Every little bit helps though,  with some persistence

[toolmaker]

hello hazen,
just saw your video, and i must say i have lapsed in reading a lot of your blogs in earnest, but the rotisserie looks brilliant and balance point seems spot on.
well done, youve fired me up a bit to make one, but i would have to clear a lot of stuff to do it.
great job hazen.

[byakk0]

I know how that goes.  I had to clear a lot of stuff myself

[byakk0]

In my last photo you can see it listing to one side. I had to come up with a solution to that.
I fabricated a position selection bolt for my rotisserie. My original design allowed it to sag as the bolt had no additional support. I made it folding, with a spinning handle so I won't have to break out the ratchet every time I want to change.
I used a series of 3/8" bolts, 1/2" pipe, and washers.

I just crank it out, find the new position, and crank it back in.

[byakk0]

I threw all the rotisserie bits together into a video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7OR_gikw0hI&feature=youtu.be