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67 Mk1 GT6 restoration


byakk0

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Thanks John.
The way I see, one way anyway, when I bought it, it was multi-color primered, a 'rolling restoration' (rustoration was more like it, little did I know--see the first photo in this thread). Thus, if I get it running again and a single color primer (or even cheap paint for that matter) on the outside and with the major panel replacement done, I am back where I thought I was when I bought it. I've got to strip it back to bare metal anyway for bodywork and final paint, so one more layer of paint at this stage won't hurt one bit.

I've got it in the air now, so access under the dash is much easier, so I may as well do it now. Plus, when I get the bottom done, it's back on the chassis (for good, hopefully), and at that point, driveable reassembly will start.

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Quoted from byakk0
Thanks John.
The way I see, one way anyway, when I bought it, it was multi-color primered, a 'rolling restoration' (rustoration was more like it, little did I know--see the first photo in this thread). Thus, if I get it running again and a single color primer (or even cheap paint for that matter) on the outside and with the major panel replacement done, I am back where I thought I was when I bought it. I've got to strip it back to bare metal anyway for bodywork and final paint, so one more layer of paint at this stage won't hurt one bit.

I've got it in the air now, so access under the dash is much easier, so I may as well do it now. Plus, when I get the bottom done, it's back on the chassis (for good, hopefully), and at that point, driveable reassembly will start.



There will never be a better opportunity to paint the inaccessible areas and also for putting in seam sealer.

What I have done Hazen on my car is to top coat the bulkhead in finished colour so that when the body is painted nothing on the scuttle ledge will need to be disturbed.

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Cleaned up under the dash a little today, prepping for primer and paint. Had some light surface rust, so before I finished for the day I hit it with the phosphoric acid(TSP).

sorry bout the angle. I had the tub spun on its side, so you'll either need to kink your head sideways or turn your monitor.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Got the underside of the dash primed and painted this week

My intent at this point, due to various issues, is to get the tub back on the chassis and make it driveable before I paint. I know, it's not ideal, but not everything is ideal in my world.
I don't want to tear the dash apart when I do paint, so I am painting under the dash. When the time comes, I'll just mask everything. The only part I'll remove is the seats and door panels, ect. (and brightwork of course, though the only bits there would be the headlight rings, wipers, and number plate lamp-minimal)



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  • 4 weeks later...

Been a while since I updated, but it has all been little things I have done barely worthy of blogging about.

That said, I got the last little bits of work done on the chassis so I can safely drop the tub back on, hopefully that will happen in 2 weeks. I could have done it all after the fact, but we all know how big of a pain it is to work on these things from underneath. Better now while I have easy access!

Flipped my driveshaft around so it is properly oriented, and replaced all 16 drive axle bolts with shouldered ones-hope coarse thread is ok. Also put the original bolts back in the top of the rear shocks. I had replaced them with smaller full threaded bolts and decided against it. I didn't realize until today the replacements were smaller diameter.
Also swapped the bolts on the diff holding the spring in place for studs.


stripped and primed the inside of the roof, and ran out of paint so the rest of that will have to come Monday. My paint supply guy charged up an aerosol can with my color in it for me. These interior bits will be covered so any errors I make won't show.

Cleaned up the hatch spring too. It is now body color. It looks greenish, sorta like Wim's spit, but it is actually dark grey.


Cleaned a little paint off the sail panel and discovered layers of bondo. There is a dent there, but looks easy enough to pop out. But that orange stuff is all over-PO musta bought all that was available, as I am finding it skimmed over the entire outside of the roof section. The indent is so gentle it shouldn't be much of an issue to pop out.

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Looking good, Hazen.

I would think about swapping the driveshaft bolts to use UNF instead of UNC. Its amazing the way that they come undone when the car is properly used.

Love the way you make reference to Wim's Spittie, his car being 1000s of miles away. The internet is so great in bringing us all together.

Fantastic thread this one.

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Thanks. Glad you are enjoying it. 🙂
I did have full thread UNF, and for the time being I am using the shouldered UNC. I'll get some UNF later, but for now it works-and the price was much better and no waiting for the post. Easier now, I know. I've replaced them on my back before.

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Finished painting the inside of the roof. Just wanted to get this complete while I can do it without craning my neck.
It's a little uneven-the photos really bring that out, but it is body color and will be covered, so I'm not extremely worried. What was there was iffy at best, barely even covered by the factory.



I also attacked the sail panel and the dent. I think I got it fairly well, but some primer and guide coat will prove otherwise I'm sure.


Additionally, I dug into the layers of paint and filler the PO skimmed all over the upper portion of my car. See how it goes bare, light orange, dark orange, grey primer, dark blue, yellow primer, and in some places, light blue. Other areas the oranges are over the factory layers of paint.Some sort of bondo skim coat, and 99% of the places it has been used it is unnecessary. It was all over the now bare sail panel, and coating the inside and outside of the gutter too! Weird-and a pain to remove (at least time consuming).

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btw, John, I think I have figured out how to add a ground wire to the stock door courtesy switches...I may have an extra to play with, but I hope I can weld a tab to them, or maybe solder a short length of wire. Just a spark of an idea right now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've still got the inside floor to work over, but you're right. Once it's all back together in one major piece it will really feel  like there truly is a light at the end of the tunnel. I need to rebuild the brake and clutch masters as well as the slave and the brake calipers. Once those are done I can get it moving under it's own power again. That's been 18 years now since that last happened.

No work today though. It's nice and rainy. Need to go get tyres put on the van today anyway, and an alignment.

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Got the tub back on the chassis, my nephew and 2 friends help me.

My boy hooked up the clutch and brake pedals and master cylinders, (the brackets still need to be painted) but removal is simple enough as the hydraulics are not hooked up yet as that system needs a complete overhaul.

Sure is a good feeling to get to this point.



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It certainly is.
regarding wheels, though. The rims I have run 195/60/13. The only company making those now are Hankook, racing only. I'll have to drop down to 185's, but that is prob a good thing-smaller diameter. I'm afraid a future project will be upgrading to 14 or 15 inch rims.

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no worries. I appreciate all input. Those tryes/rims were what came with my car and I haven't changed them. I may later on, especially as my specific tyre requirements for those rims are getting very limited--I'll prob be forced to stock rims or upgrade to 14's or 15's down the road.

That said, I'm nowhere near a tyre expert. What do you mean by 60 profile?

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Quoted from byakk0
What do you mean by 60 profile?


You stated that your current tyres are "195/60/13". The 195 is the width (in mm), the 13 is the wheel diameter (inches), and the 60 is the profile (height as a percentage of width).

Like Tim, I would say 175/70/13 if it were a Rotoflex car. If you're still on the Mk1 suspension I'd be tempted to go narrower - it won't grip quite as well but it'll slide much more forgivingly.

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oh, 60. Right....Thanks.

Not sure just how I will go with the tyres. It is a Mk1 non rotoflex. I need new tyres, and as I mentioned I am very limited to what I put on my current rims. I'll have to think on how I want to go. I don't have any stock GT6 rims, so changing to something new will be a big expense. It will be mainly street driving, so I am not looking for exceptional performance or racing type situations.

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More fun!

I kinda jumped around yesterday and today.
Stripped and painted the diff cover and the OD cover.






almost looks out of place against set in place.


I discovered yesterday I should have put the gas pedal in before I dropped the tub on, as the engine and transmission get in the way. I was having trouble getting one of the heelboard mounting bolts in anyway.

Yesterday I loosened the bolts and lifted the tub install the gas pedal, and today I got all but the front tub bolts installed. I need to adjust the front holes as I didn't quite get my measurements correct when making and installing the outriggers even though I built a jig prior to removing them. Not a big deal really, but I discovered the dremel is missing critical components for the job, thanks to my 16 year old part-time assistant.

So, I moved on to other items and will pick up the cut-off wheel adapter later.

Painted the master cyl brackets,



refurbished the e-brake handle.



But, I discovered I refurbished the push-to-release (fly-on, as I am told it is called) handle instead of the push-to-set (fly-off) handle, as it should be. So, I have another handle refurbish in the future.

I also connected the e-brake underneath.

Also played with the throttle today. Discovered I have it set up as a GT6+(Mk2) and not the early Mk1, where it is connected at the rear carb instead in between the two. I have some work ahead of me there.




Broke out the wiring harness also and ran it up under the dash and through the firewall. (gives you a good shot of the master cyls installed in the newly painted brackets)

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