Should I cut a hole in my front valance?

[Keith]

Following some overheating issues in the Alps last weekend I've been pondering whether it might be worth converting the front valance on my 4A to the TR5 spec with the extra cooling hole. It's got a TR5 radiator under-tray on it, which has mounts for the oil cooler which I could use to move the cooler to a lower position out of the main air intake.

Has anyone done this, and does it makes a difference?

Is it possible to do it neatly in situ, is there a template available for cutting the hole?

Ta,

Keith

[TRTOM2498]

Hi Keith,

I have never done this,but suspect with a rebuilt radiator, new water pump etc, your cooling issues should be resolved ? Do you have an electric fan, with manual over ride switch ?  Are you running a radiator cowling ?


Cheers

[Keith]

Hi Tom,
I posted the same question over on the Register forum, the wisdom there was that I shouldn't really need it, after all the works TR4s were thrashed up those passes without any such mods.
It's a matter of getting things back into good condition. I've got the radiator shroud and a newish Kenlowe.
Thanks for your reply.

Keith

[Hogie]

Hi Keith,
            as you know in theory the engine should run at the right temp with no extra holes - Triumph did it right.
If you have a problem then you need to find what is causing it rather than just by-passing it as it may get worse and how big can you make the holes!!!

Roger

[Hogie]

Hi Keith,
            as you know in theory the engine should run at the right temp with no extra holes - Triumph did it right.
If you have a problem then you need to find what is causing it rather than just by-passing it as it may get worse and how big can you make the holes!!!

Roger

[TRTOM2498]

Hi Keith,

No worries.

Let us know how you get on.


Cheers

[Keith]

The radiator has gone off to the re-conditioners, I await their quote!

Keith

[thescrapman]

Keith wrote:

The radiator has gone off to the re-conditioners, I await their quote!

Keith

I eagerly await it too.

The TR4 I was in has it's cooling system running on neat radweld, as it still has the original 49-year old rad in it!

The owner was moaning how he couldn't afford to get it repaired before the 10CR as it was goping to be over £500...

I need evidence to prove he is mis-informed.

I guess you don't have a hole in the middle of yours for the starting handle?

Cheers

Colin

[TRTOM2498]

£500 sounds a little rich.

I had my TR6 radiator recored for £90-100 cash two years ago.  I know TR4 radiators are different, but don't think the difference is that much.  TR4 & 4A radiators are a little different in size, so would be interested to find out.

[Keith]

I think having the starting handle hole can make quite a sizable hole in your wallet, presumably there's a lot of intricate soldering needed to fit it to the core.
I'm using Auto Radiator Services in Luton who I've used before for Herald rads at £50-60 & VAT, and they will collect and deliver.
He's quoted £140 plus VAT after moaning about the price of copper, which seems to be in line with the Rimmers price so I've told him to go ahead and get it done.

Keith

[Tim Hunt]

I'm with Roger, Keith. I reckon your overheating problem is down to partial blockage in radiator or gunged up waterways. My father bought NGP 86D 41 years ago yesterday and in neither his ownershipo nor mine has it ever given overheating problems. If anything my difficulty was in getting the engine to run hot enough!! It has never had a radiator duct fitted, nor ever needed one. I removed the mechanical fan some 35 years ago when I fitted a Kenlowe and run all year round with a 91 deg C thermostat. Except in the hottest summer weather or when negotiating Alpine passes I run with the bottom 4 inches of the radiator blanked off and my oil cooler matrix is directly in front of the rad. i also have three badges on the radiator grille which must cut down air flow somewhat. Even so, in normal running the temperature gauge is dead centre or just to the hot side of normal (where I like to see it). I run with a 50% coolant mix all year round and change this every two years flushing the system thoroughly and always use rainwater (distilled by nature) to avoid hard water deposits affecting cooling efficiency. I really don't see why it should be necessary to butcher the front valance and hope your refurbished rad is the answer.