culley Posted January 22, 2008 Share Posted January 22, 2008 Anyone with any advice on cold starting for my gt6 Mk 3 ? Car starts ok but full choke seems a bit too much, half choke and i have trouble keeping it running until warmed up. I dont want to flood it but cant seem to find a happy medium for the amount of choke, takes 10 to 15 mins until properly warmed to be able to drive away smoothly, is this normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Have you checked to make sure the choke is adjusted and set correctly?My four pot has SU's which were recently rebuilt (so should be fine) and no matter what I do if it's too cold it gives me problems. But, if I turn the car off and leave it for a couple of minutes the choke works perfectly - without changing how it was before when it was running rough.Also, don't worry about getting it warm before driving it. Start it up and drive it carefully. It'll warm up far quicker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Are both carbs "choking " in synch as it were, It one carb is giving way more fuel than the other it can give these symptoms... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Don't warm the engine up idling, drive away easy as soon as it's started. If the choke is moving the jets same amount but not giving you enough revs on half choke, screw the choke throttle stop screws in a bit. Personally I found the setting in the manual gives too high revs and screwed the screws out a bit. Basically set 'em so the engine idles at 1500-2000 with 1/4-1/2 choke, or where it feels best for you. You can also set it up so 1/4 choke just gives you bit more revs but hardly any jet movement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 He's got a GT6 Mk3, so presumably he's got the Stromberg CDSE's. The CDSE choke mechanism doesn't move the jets, it has a little appurtenance on the side called the "starter box". It is the assembly marked number 26 in that drawing; it is attached to the carb body with two screws (#25).The starter box operates via a little disc inside with a series of holes progressing from smaller to larger, like the aperture plate in some cameras. It does sound sort of like the choke may not be the same on both carbs. On a rebuild, it is possible to assemble the box incorrectly to the carb body, so that the holes in the starter box do not line up with the holes in the carb body. Also, the disc with the holes is sort of the middle of a sandwich between the outside of the starter box assembly on one side & the carb body on the other, & goopy stuff can build up between the disc & outside of the starter box assembly making the little holes non-functional. The solution for that is to remove the starter box, disassemble it, clean it, & put it back on the carb. I'd start with that, anyway, if it looks like there's no problem with the choke cable(s) not operating both chokes the same.Notice that there's no gasket between the starter box & the carb body, so removing it to clean it doesn't entail the drama of a carb rebuild. As I remember, you take it off, then take off the nut which holds that stamped steel cam-arm to it, there's a lockwasher beneath, it starts coming apart, then you get to an assembly with a spring on the shaft holding the disc in, the spring is held by a little retainer like a slotted washer that just slides straight off to the side, spring comes free, & the disc & body are left there. It seems like you can't actually disassembly the disc from the outside part, but at that point without the spring, if you soak it in solvent & clean it up, the disc will slide on the shaft enough (1/4" or so) to get some room between the two halves to get a little brush in there & scrub it out between the halves.Just do one at a time, so you'll have the other for reference when you're putting the pieces back together. When reassembling it to the carb body, watch where all the holes go together & move when the choke is pulled.Did the UK GT6 Mk3's also get the interesting siamese twin choke cable? (one knob, two cables coming out of it running to the carbs)Edit:I suppose it would be a good idea first to try to do some tests to see if it is one choke assembly being bad. You could disconnect the choke cables from the carbs, & then using baling wire or something pull up both chokes & tie them to the brackets that holds the choke cable clips. Start it, see if it acts like it usually does. If it's better, it would seem to be a problem with the attachment of the choke cable on one carb or another.If it's not better, start it with just one choke pulled up, then just the other choke pulled up. See which is the one that does nothing, & go after that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mac Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Thanks Bill, got sidetracked by Ferny's SU post Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don cook1 Posted January 24, 2008 Share Posted January 24, 2008 My car, when very cold, was transformed when I fitted Aldon ignition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
culley Posted January 25, 2008 Author Share Posted January 25, 2008 GT6_Don wrote:My car, when very cold, was transformed when I fitted Aldon ignition. Yea my previous car a Rapier Fastback was transformed too. Ive en elcetronic Ignition on order from today! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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