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Compression check (engine out)?


molten

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molten,
You could put the battery positive lead directly onto the starter,and control it by lifting a lead from the battery, but that makes a good sized spark at the battery. It is much safer to use the solenoid, and a small lead to activate the starter.
                                                                      Cheers,
                                                                      Paul

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1526 wrote:
You don't have to turn it over with a starter motor, you can do it by hand provided you have some means to turn it over such as a solid fan bolted directly to the crankshaft on some engines or a spanner on the pulley nut.

Ted


deos this give an accurate compression test (original question at the top of this thread)?  I always understood that to ge t a good compression test you had to spin the engine on the starter with the throttles wide open for a good few seconds.  You're hardly likey to be able to achieve this by hand.

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I thought the issue of how many times to turn the engine over would come up.

I have only ever turned it over once when checking compressions because spinning it over pumps up the pressure in the tester gauge - I suppose it still does the same thing but I  personally prefer to see what it is on just one turn.  This is what I have done over my 50 years of car ownership because it is the method that was always described in technical publications when I first started out on the car mechanics game ...... and it has never served me wrong.

Bearing in mind that very often you are doing a comparative reading of all the cylinders where you are more looking for even readings between them it probably does not really matter which method you use provided you get over the 'target' pressure in each.  

Advantage of 'my' method is of course that you don't need to fit a starter motor!

Ted

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1526 wrote:
I thought the issue of how many times to turn the engine over would come up.

I have only ever turned it over once when checking compressions because spinning it over pumps up the pressure in the tester gauge - I suppose it still does the same thing but I  personally prefer to see what it is on just one turn.  This is what I have done over my 50 years of car ownership because it is the method that was always described in technical publications when I first started out on the car mechanics game ...... and it has never served me wrong.

Bearing in mind that very often you are doing a comparative reading of all the cylinders where you are more looking for even readings between them it probably does not really matter which method you use provided you get over the 'target' pressure in each.  

Advantage of 'my' method is of course that you don't need to fit a starter motor!

Ted


Hi Ted
Valid points mate. Did you ever re-test when engine up to normal operating temps to see if it made any difference after metals have expanded?
Cheers
scott

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Nick_Jones wrote:
As Clive says you can always fit a starter motor to the backplate and spin it over like that (needs to have oil in it!).  You can even run an engine like this..... not saying it's a good idea - just that it's possible!

Nick


In ran a Mini engine like that many moons ago, more for the fun of it than anything else. I even had an oil pressue gauge connected via a plastic pipe to check my rebuild had good pressure. It did until the plastic pipe melted on the exhaust - oil everywhere  ??)

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You want to be careful what you start, that isn't bolted down.

One of the things my company did in New Guinea was engine overhaul. We had an 8 HP Yanmar single cylinder marine diesel brought in because it wouldn't go.

The problem was the injector, & after it was overhauled I gave it to one of the better local native boys to refit. The engine was sitting on it's sump in the large cemented & roofed open work area. Being a good boy, he decided to make sure there were no leaks in the system when he'd refitted the injector.

Unfortunately his hand slipped off the decompression lever, while he was turning it over, & it started, on about 2/3 throttle. At about 1000 RPM it was not only leaping up & down half a foot at each stroke, it was also leaping all over the work area, in large random jumps. In just a few seconds it was being chased by over half a dozen of the local boys.

Of course these locals don't wear steel caped work boots, or even shoes. Each time one of them caught the thing, it would turn on him, & chase him off. It would have been great fun, if it wasn't crashing into various cars & other stuff in the work area. Finally one got it by the decompression leaver, which slowed it enough to allow another to shut the throttle.

When my secretary a customer & I who had been watching all this, caught our breath from laughing, I found a couple of slightly dinged cars, some blood from a couple of slightly squashed toes, a Yanmar engine needing extensive work on it's near flat sump, & one very contrite boy. All in a mornings work up there, but none of those boys ever started an engine, without tying it up very tightly first.

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CRAJ wrote:
My Dad had an 8hp Yanmar on a Marcon Tomahawk sailing boat when we were teenagers. Even in the boat you had to lift the decompression lever for 1 or 2 seconds to stop the flywheel bringing it back to life.

Colin.


Ever had one of those start running on its own engine oil? I had a Petter Mini-twin in a sailing boat and motorsailing one day we caught a squall which heeled the boat right over. Suddenly the engine started racing at full revs and wouldn't stop even after coming back upright. With the fuel off and even the decompressor down (which you shouldn't really do when it's running at speed) it took ages to slowdown and eventually stop. Scary moment as we thought it was going to blow-up and catch fire.

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sparky_spit wrote:


Ever had one of those start running on its own engine oil?


I've had it happen with my diesel campervan which I think was drawing oil from the sump via the breather, in fact it happened a few times. It's a bit scary when it happens. I eventually did an engine swap rather than trying to fix it.

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I believe there was a problem with Renault 19 turbo diesels where a seal in the turbo would go and allow the sump oil to be drawn in. The solution was to park the car up on the hard shoulder, get out and walk away, to leave the car to go bang when it ran out of oil as the engine would be running flat out.

Colin.

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Had that happen in an isuzu trooper at one time
It was my brother in laws jeep and i had been trashing it a bit so in a mad panic and getting rapidly swallowed up in a cloud of stinking blue smoke i somehow managed to stall it
started it again after a few mins and drove home nice and slowly and quickly handed back the keys.

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