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Compression Check


Nick Jackson (2)

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Thought I'd try out my new toy bought by someone last Christmas.    Couldn't check No.1 properly because the alternator was in the way but Nos. 2 to 6 were 157, 150, 158, 161 and 170 (avg) in PSI.   Are these acceptable in variation?  

The difference between No.3 and No.6 looks massive at 20PSI. What would be the effect on the engine of having this situation and, more to the point, what is causing it?  I did No. 6 and got 171 the 1st time and rechecked to get 169 the 2nd time.    

Thanks
Nick J.

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Doesn't sound like there's too much to worry about there. The difference between cylinders can be caused all manner of things. Slight differences in piston height, con rod length, bore diameter, piston ring gaps etc etc will all add up to a slight difference. Then theres the calibration of the tester etc etc.

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"Then theres the calibration of the tester"

I'll have you know I put my pint down to take those readings you know!  (Oh you mean the gauge itself do you?)


It was a Gunsons tester.  Instructions said disconnect ignitiona and crank over for 5-10 seconds. Didn't touch the accelerator. General viewpoint is that there's nothing amiss here.  Good - another thing off the list then.

Thanks

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This is a Pi, right?
So throttle bodies in pairs.
You'll note the back pair have higher compression than middle, or No.2.   If you didn't have the throttle open, may mean that back throttle body has poorly closing butterflies, so more air aspirated than the middle one, so can achieve greater compression.

Open the throttle wide as poss to take compression readings.

Also suggest disconnect fuel pump while you do it.

John

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always have the throttles open you need to get the air in easy,  ( cant run with mouth shut)
,, and crank till max reading is observed   with a good battery and starter and ALL  plugs Out.
it must spin over at a good rate         +- 10% is quite normal     Peter

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