steve_1360 Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 Hi allThe water pump on my 1850 was leaking, i've took it to bits and have a couple of questions.The impeller has a rather deep grove in it where the graphite seal runs, is this normal or do i need a new impeller? I have attached a photo, you can just about see it. Also the impeller shaft has a very pitted bit in the middle, the oil seal bit is fine and so is were the impeller seats. Does this bit of shaft do anything? again do i need a new one? The photos not very clear.Also do i need to get the brass cage out as the impeller shaft came out without it?CheersSteve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trackerjack Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 Unless you have access to a lathe or similar, I am afraid its new impellor time IMHO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted December 30, 2007 Share Posted December 30, 2007 steve_1360 wrote:...The photos not very clear...That's quite clear :PI can't make out which side is which in the second piucture ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_1360 Posted December 31, 2007 Author Share Posted December 31, 2007 BeansOn the right is where the impeller seats with the O ring, then there is the black bit which is pitted and then the step up to where the oil seal fits. The gear disappears of the left hand side of the photo.RegardsSteve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
32valves Posted December 31, 2007 Share Posted December 31, 2007 Steve, to answer your other question, yes you will need to remove the brass cage. The cage can be a sod to remove but this is what I do and it's never failed yet. Assemble a two leg puller on its longest reach with the 'hooks' facing outwards. These can then be located under the ridge inside the cage. Use a piece of box section steel or similar strong item and place it across the pump aperture such that the puller can push against it and carefully tighten the puller. It may take a considerable force to shift the cage but once it's started moving it will pull out quite easily. You can then refurbish and re-assemble the pump properly. Let us know how you get on ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Mart Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 steve_1360 wrote:Hi allThe water pump on my 1850 was leaking, i've took it to bits and have a couple of questions.The impeller has a rather deep grove in it where the graphite seal runs, is this normal or do i need a new impeller? I have attached a photo, you can just about see it. Also the impeller shaft has a very pitted bit in the middle, the oil seal bit is fine and so is were the impeller seats. Does this bit of shaft do anything? again do i need a new one? The photos not very clear.Also do i need to get the brass cage out as the impeller shaft came out without it?CheersSteveYou will need to remove the brass cage from the block before rebuilding the pump. Here's something you can knock together:-You'll need to put a slot in the bolt as well so you can hold it with a screwdriver to stop it turning.You can take the impeller to your local machine shop who should be able to clean the mating surface up (Mr 2toledos did a batch for me).The bit of shaft you are describing is the same on all shafts, nothing to worry about as nothing sits on that bit, that's why it's been left rough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Mart Posted January 1, 2008 Share Posted January 1, 2008 steve_1360 wrote:Hi allThe water pump on my 1850 was leaking, i've took it to bits and have a couple of questions.The impeller has a rather deep grove in it where the graphite seal runs, is this normal or do i need a new impeller? I have attached a photo, you can just about see it. Also the impeller shaft has a very pitted bit in the middle, the oil seal bit is fine and so is were the impeller seats. Does this bit of shaft do anything? again do i need a new one? The photos not very clear.Also do i need to get the brass cage out as the impeller shaft came out without it?CheersSteveYou will need to remove the brass cage from the block before rebuilding the pump. Here's something you can knock together:-You'll need to put a slot in the bolt as well so you can hold it with a screwdriver to stop it turning.You can take the impeller to your local machine shop who should be able to clean the mating surface up (Mr 2toledos did a batch for me).The bit of shaft you are describing is the same on all shafts, nothing to worry about as nothing sits on that bit, that's why it's been left rough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_1360 Posted January 1, 2008 Author Share Posted January 1, 2008 Thanks for the help guys, i'll let you know how i get on.CheersSteve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_1360 Posted March 10, 2008 Author Share Posted March 10, 2008 Hi guysGot the water pump fixed and is now OK but the bypass tube is now leaking! The car ran for about 15 minutes with no leaks, put the rad cap on and then it started leaking, i suppose due to the pressure build up in the cooling system.Is there a good way of fitting this or was i unlucky? I put a bit of grease on new 'o' rings and pushed it as far into the water pump housing as possible, anything else i should do? I'm getting a bit bored taking the inlet manifold on and off!CheersSteve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted March 10, 2008 Share Posted March 10, 2008 I pressume you cleanded al the relevant surfaces, but did you use the correct (thickness) o-rings? If they are to thin they won't seal properly ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_1360 Posted March 11, 2008 Author Share Posted March 11, 2008 Yes i cleaned all the surfaces, i assume they are the right 'o' rings as they came from rimmers. Does anybody know what thickness they are suppose to be so i can check?CheersSteve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Mart Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Don't forget that the top 'O' ring has a slightly larger diameter than the bottom one, and when reassembling, put the bottom one on first. That way the top one can't slip into the bottom recess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beans Posted March 11, 2008 Share Posted March 11, 2008 Euhh ... are we talking about the O-rings on the brass cage or the ones on the little pipe/connector between pumphouse and manifold :-/I pressumed you meant the last one. Thickness should be the same as the witdh of the groove, there should be some resistance when you put the pipe into the holes in pump cover or manifold. And yes I got a few wrong O-rings from Rimmer's in the past (they always rectified though) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_1360 Posted March 12, 2008 Author Share Posted March 12, 2008 Yes it is the O rings between the pumphousing and the manifold. I shall have a good look when i get it to bits.CheersSteve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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