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GT6 Mk1 Water Pump options...


Ben Hutchings

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Hi, I need to replace the water pump on my mk1 6 engine.

Can anyone tell me what options I have as regards part numbers and possible upgrades? I'm sure I've asked this before and/or been told by someone, but I can't find reference to it now.

Are parts GWP200, and GWP201 interchangeable and if so, what's the difference. Someone (Roy I think?) mentioned a 'high output' version on sale by one of the bigger suppliers but I can't find it now I search.

Also, what are Your thoughts on alloy pulleys, vanes and housings? Expense asside, are they good, and can I expect them to perform as well as an original style one, or should they be regarded as a 'race only' sort of part. I like the idea of reducing the weight over the front a bit!

Thanks!

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Hutch wrote:

Also, what are Your thoughts on alloy pulleys, vanes and housings? Expense asside, are they good, and can I expect them to perform as well as an original style one, or should they be regarded as a 'race only' sort of part. I like the idea of reducing the weight over the front a bit!


I've always considered aluminium water pumps a waste of money (racing aside). Go for the more permanent light-weight goodies;

Water-pump housing, engine front plate, engine back-plate, alternator bracket?

(if you have an alternator that is) :)

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Just use a new standard pump..not a NOS one off e-bay..no guarantee and in my experience tend to start leaking after a few miles...use an alloy pulley on it if required but be careful when pressing pulleys on and off ! canleys do some sexy all alloy upgraded ones but there not cheap and of doughtful advantage on a road car....if you need any pressing on/off just contact me as i have full workshop facilities.

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Ben, was it this you were looking for...http://www.racemettleltd.co.uk/pump.html

Id also like to know if anyone has fitted an 'uprated' water pump, is it worth it?,
does it help cooling a GT6?

Also M#ss do one too......
Any good, or just sales blurb! :)

expect the word 'cavitation' to crop up now!  ;)
Roy 8)

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I've got a bog standard Canley's one on mine, been on about a year and it's been fine.
Keith's GT6 that I co-drove on the RBRR had an electric water pump and it did keep the temp in the middle of the gauge no matter what, looked pretty cool to.
Floyd.

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The heating problem has got to be air locks. Easy to fix with EWP. Just temporarily wire it to run continuous without ignition, open heater, remove rad cap, run EWP for a bit, stop and top up and repeat until you can get no more in - jobsagudden....

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Sorry I've not replied y'all, I haven't had any 'reply' notifications emailed to me so I thought no-one had bothered and was coming back to see whether I'd said something stupid! haha!

Ok, great, Roy that's what I meant yea, I'll have a better look at that in a minute.

No heating / cooling probs as yet, the gauge sits dead at 85C nearly all the time appart from up the Italian passes last year where it sat at 95 then bolied over when we stopped!
I'm only asking cus each time something on the car goes I like to find out if there's something better to replace it with. Rolling upgrades :)

The Canley's alloy pump housing was mentioned above. That's quite a bit if weight to lose! Is it ok to use this with a steel/iron pump then? I wondered whether there would be temp/expansion problems with it bolted onto the head if differing metals are used?

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Hutch wrote:

The Canley's alloy pump housing was mentioned above. That's quite a bit if weight to lose! Is it ok to use this with a steel/iron pump then? I wondered whether there would be temp/expansion problems with it bolted onto the head if differing metals are used?


Got one on my PI Spitfire, I intend to get one for the MkI PI  :)

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Hutch wrote:
The Canley's alloy pump housing was mentioned above. That's quite a bit if weight to lose! Is it ok to use this with a steel/iron pump then? I wondered whether there would be temp/expansion problems with it bolted onto the head if differing metals are used?


There've long been other aluminum items bolted to iron lumps without severe problems, not the least are aluminum cylinder heads on iron blocks.  I think mostly gasketing and anti-seize all over the bolts are the most important issues there.  

As for aluminum items in the water path (like aluminum heads), the key to longevity seems to be regular flushing/backflushing/coolant changes of the cooling system.

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Great ghr630. Jury rigged the EWP last night. After about 10 seconds running GLOOP !! and ther was suddenly room for an extra half litre of coolant. Just wish I'd mentioned this before RBRR. We could have done with a bit of warmth
at times.

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The sure-fire way of getting airlocks out of the heater circuit is to take the heater hose off the top of the head (or the topmost outlet on the manifold pipe, whichever you have) and hold it up in the air. Fill via the radiator cap as normal (or expansion tank) till coolant comes out of the head. Put the cap back on, then put your finger over the head pipe. Then with your 3rd hand, dribble coolant slowly into the heater hose. When it's full, put it back on as quickly as you can. Works every time for me.

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99176 wrote:
Yes please.
I have modified the circuit with return pipe now before EWP and fitted
heater booster pump into heater feed pipe.
I bleed the system with the front up on ramps, what else do I have to do?


i too have an EWP and had to modify heater circuit the same way and i also included a seperate header tank which makes the whole system self bleeding.
the EWP apparently only has a service life of around 2k hours but i'll bet it's easier to obtain a replacement EWP rather than an original pump virtually anywhere.plus it's only 2 jubilee clips to loosen to replace the pump.
in the winter it might require some blanking off of the radiator to restore the performance of the heater as the cooling system will effectivly be overcooled ie,the EWP hardly working meaning little flow around the engine and heater matrix.

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