soooty Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 i only wanted to change my water- which i did and then the water pump starts spewing stuff. i'm trying to remove it so i can fit a new one and have got stuck. There are 3 bolts holding it on but i can only undow them about 10mm and then they rest against the side of the wheel that the belt goes on making them impossible to get out. The haynes book is about as useful as my mechanical skills lol.. apreciate any help if you can tell me how to get the pump off. ta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Once you've loosened the 3 nuts and wound them out as far as they'll go, the pump will start to come away from the housing (may need an encouraging clout or two), which will then give you more room to undo the nuts. Refitting is a reversal of the process so make sure you put all three nuts on and wind them all down evenly before trying to tighten anything. Bit fiddly but not really hard. Much worse by the roadside with a hot engine..... :PNick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Should be 3 x nuts on studs not bolts.You might find the studs coming out instead. Do as Nick suggests and then when you have the pump off, separate the nuts from the studs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 Richard_B wrote:Should be 3 x nuts on studs not bolts.Er, no, Richard.Sooty, if it's a GT6 then it's bolts.If it's a Spitfire/Herald, then it's studs.You expect S/T to be consistent?John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willcolumbine Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 I had this on my car. The nuts were seized solid on the studs and they all came out 'as one'. The pump was stuck to the housing with about two tonnes of gasket sealant and took quite a bit of prying to shift!Something to be wary of if you get new studs is that some suppliers sell ones that are fractionally too short for this application. I threaded a couple of bolts and a few studs trying to refit mine before I realised that the nut was starting to take the load before the thread on the stud was fully located. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soooty Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 thanks for repies. it turned out i was being a propper div.. all i needed to do was pull the pump away with a bit more force insted of bein a big girl. sori to waste peeps time. thanks again though.Is the pump worth replacing now i've got it off. I was thinking it might just have been the seal that was dogey and that a new gasket would work. is there a type of sealant i can smear either side of the gasket to get a better seal?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted July 20, 2010 Share Posted July 20, 2010 It's rarely the gasket that leaks but the internal seal which then allows water to run out through a slot or hole in the casting (designed to protect the bearing I imagine). The pumps are not really serviceable so I reckon a new one is the best way to go - unless you're 100% certain it's the gasket that's gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soooty Posted July 20, 2010 Author Share Posted July 20, 2010 i'll get a new one. thaks for replies Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted July 21, 2010 Share Posted July 21, 2010 JohnD wrote:Sooty, if it's a GT6 then it's bolts.If it's a Spitfire/Herald, then it's studs.You expect S/T to be consistent?John we are talking about the water pump to water pump housing attachment Part No. 101962 aren't we? :-/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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