1300 fwd 2023 Mongol Rally - 20,000 Miles from Bristol to Mongolia... and back!

[GK Garages]

Hi Club Triumph Members!

 

It's Reece here, the better looking half of the GK Garages team! 

As the title of this post alludes to, GK Garages (another chap called Ross, and I) have just signed up to take part in the absolute epic that is the 2023 Mongol Rally! This is an adventure that will take us from home in Bristol, over 10,000 miles through Europe (around the Nurburgring), down through Turkey, through Iran, and up into the 'Stans' before we hit Mongolia... and then we're going to drive back again! A 20,000 mile adventure that most people undertake by firmly sticking to the only two rules imposed by the organisers... Paying les than £1000 for your car, and having an engine smaller than 1000cc. The other aspect of this journey alongside the driving, is the fact we're raising money for charity! We've set ourselves the challenge or raising a minimum of £2000 to be split between our 3 charities: Cool Earth, Mind, and the RSPCA! 

Here at GK Garages we're a little bold stupid, and so have taken it upon ourselves to do this challenge in a 1967 Triumph 1300 that we've aptly named Stanley, as we're going to go and show him off in a bunch of the 'Stans'! The eagle eyed amongst you will know that a 1300 fwd is a 1296cc engine - however we've been given special dispensation by the event organisers due to the fact the car is older than both of our ages combined, and is currently 80% structural rust.

So why are we here?

Ross and I have quickly realised that as much as we love cars, and have worked on a fair few already - we need to source the knowledge of Triumph experts with regards to what we can do to firstly restore, and secondly modify our car so that it will not only survive the 20,000 miles - but thrive, and fly the British flag proudly across multiple continents and over 20 countries! Whilst we don't want to absolutely destroy our car, we are incredibly keen on turning him into an absolute classic rally monster with switches and dials, and all the other rally naughtiness inside!

So I'm starting this thread to help collect the absolute wealth of knowledge and experience that the members of Club Triumph must have on our little 1300. We want to know absolutely everything! Strengths, weaknesses, what we should change, what we should modify, how we can raise the ground clearance, what parts are shared with other cars, what parts we might need custom made etc. etc. We want to know it all!

We'll keep you updated with our progress with a few posts on the thread, but also on a blog which we've incorporated into our website here: GK Garages 2023 Mongol Rally and also on our Instagram page here: GK Garages Instagram

If you have a nose around that website link, you will find more info on the two of us, the route we're taking, and the charities that we're going to be raising money for! Whilst we're here first and foremost to gather information so that we will actually make the 20,000 mile journey - we'd be doing ourselves a disservice if we didn't kindly remind you that this is all for charity, any any support that you can offer us will be greatly appreciated! Whether it be donations to the charities, donations to our fuel fund, or donations of spare parts or knowledge - any way you can help us will be greatly appreciated! As a little bonus, if you do end up donating - we're going to be stickering the life out of our little car so are thinking of adding names/faces/logos of those that have helped us along the way!!

Also, at some point we're going to be going on decent shakedown drives across the UK to make sure all our resto-modding is going to plan - which would be a great excuse to come and meet some of you at events and get togethers! Something to work towards for sure!

I look forward to hearing all of your ideas regarding how we can bullet proof and fully rally spec our little Triumph 1300!! Poor Stanley doesn't know what he's in for just yet!

 

Cheers,

Reece

[thescrapman]

I have to say that you haven't picked the most ideal car for the job, sorry 😞

Either get a bag of spare input shafts, they fail very easily, just look how small they are, or change the gearbox and diff to a 1500fwd setup.

Actually the 1500 setup will give you a better diff ratio, as that is the second major issue with tye 1300fwd, it is chronically under-geared.

Not many options to fit different wheels if so desired, and raising ride height will mess up geometry quite badly.

 I also seem to remember the CV joints and front wheel bearings don't seem to last very well, might be wrong on that mind.

Plus points, they are very comfortable. I have done a RBRR in one.

 

[JohnD]

Reece, you will be travelling in illustrious, and successful, tyretracks!   Look up "Triumph &Tribulation" on Facebook.   Those guys may have useful advice!

Please keep.us as well informed on progress as they did in 2018.   We loved every report they sent back!

Good luck, you lucky people!

John

[1147cc]

Not many Triumphs under 1000cc.

Ive always wanted to do Paris to Peking in my mk1 Spit

[sparky_spit]

I had one as a teenager and thrashed it back and forth to college every day. I had no mechanical sympathy in those days and broke several front driveshaft CV joints and rubber donuts. Take plenty of spares!

Edited April 2, 2022 by sparky_spit

[PeteStupps]

Exciting if foolish mission! Yes to echo scrapman's comment, the input shaft is a known weakness. There was an upgrade available but they dried up a couple of years ago. A chap called Steve Waldenberg from the Triumph Dolomite Club is having a limited run of original-spec shafts made up very soon - I've just paid a steep sum towards one... Suggest you contact him ASAP (via the 1300fwd Facebook group if not the TDC website) and ask. To change the shaft you usually need a slide hammer to remove the old one. I've never succeeded any other way and have a large awkward slide hammer rolling around in the boot now.

Another thing to check is the keyway in the nose of the crankshaft. If your 1967 has its original engine, it's likely to have the earlier straight-nose crank. Something to do with having the starter-ring on the front means the main pulley nut tends to work loose, and the woodruff key then chews up crankshaft and pulley. Later engines had a tapered pulley and shaft, to solve this problem. If yours is in good shape, just make sure that big pulley nut is kept tight. 

My 1300fwd has honestly given me a lot of grief! It is a lovely car and hopefully I've ironed out most of the chronic issues now. Some problems were self-inflicted, incidentally.

[Greta]

You need to read this: 

https://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=31014642108&cm_mmc=ggl-_-UK_Shopp_RareStandard-_-product_id=bi%3A 31014642108-_-keyword=&gclid=CjwKCAjwur-SBhB6EiwA5sKtjpPvzO4xFR_DqmqV6nQAPAZaGqJYBrBR54KdO9W1tNRZ-hYgWCEJphoCZMcQAvD_BwE

& this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/How-Build-Low-cost-Rally-Car/dp/1845842081/ref=asc_df_1845842081/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310943444083&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6436163553506216031&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046726&hvtargid=pla-562726375136&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

 

Both by Philip Young.... the founder of The Endurance Rally Organisation

10CR & RBRR - obligatory preparation.

If it rotates - change & & consider a spare

Steel is easier to repair than alloy

K.I.S.S.

 

 

[JumpingFrog]

Good luck guys!

Btw I'm half of the team "Triumph and Tribulations", from 2018. Happy to give you some advice and will definitely be watching your progress.

In general, I don't know much about FWD, but I know the 1300 engine pretty well:

• Fuel vaporisation will be an issue in Iran, between Tabriz and Tehran we were stuck in traffic the whole day at 46C. We managed, just. But decided to ditch our original plan to go down to Yazd and stay North along the Caspian coast.
• Similarly, I would definitely rebuild your radiator with a thicker core (3-row) and fit an electric fan, flush your block and make sure its not full of sludge. We thought the mechanical fan (8-blade Spitfire 1500 type) would be fine, but its not enough in traffic and hot weather.
• We also decided to rise our bonnet (see photo below with ratchet strap and wooden blocks), it at least seemed to get hot air out from around the carb.
• Pamirs are incredibly hard work, air filters are important. We had no air box and fully open air filters, they clogged really quickly, new one every day.
• I don't know how vulnerable the underside of a 1300FWD is, but consider protecting fuel tank and gearbox, because some roads are really deeply rutted, especially in Kazakhstan.
• If your engine is a TC, I would say you should switch to a single carb, it's just less to go wrong.
• Would also recommend an alternator conversion if your car is still on a dynamo, lots of countries have headlights always on rules, and someone will want to extract money from you if you break it (Kyrgyzstan in particular). Similarly, if you have sealed beam units, replace with H4 units and carry spare bulbs, you can usually win with these "fines" if you act dumb, but it's really annoying.
• Ignition gave us the most issues, take some rotor arms, points, spark plugs, condensers and maybe a coil.
• One thing I absolutely recommend is van tyres, we fitted Hankook Vantra, and didn't have a single puncture.
• If possible, look at raising the ride height slightly with heavier duty springs, no idea what springs would fit a 1300FWD. But if you're driving back across Russia, you don't want a car that's been forcefully "lowered" by Mongolian "roads".

We took LOADS of spares, suspension uprights, balljoints, alternator rebuild kits, master cylinder rebuild kits, driveshafts, head gaskets, water pump, fuel pump and to be honest, other than what I've mentioned, the only bits we used were front suspension bushes (our polybushes completely disintegrated in Mongolia) and both driveshafts. All this extra weight was annoying to be honest, we had more spares than actual luggage...

 

[Darren Sharp]

Good luck Chaps . Happy to give you some charity money and whatever is lying around in the garage for spares (not much specific 1300 stuff I’m afraid) . Post your just giving page ( or whatever you are using ) here and link to FB pages . You will have the time of your life I’m sure 

[Pierre]

Great challenge gents.

You’ll get loads  of advice on big stuff from people far more knowledgeable than me.  I had an FWD 1300 for a couple of years that involved  nothing more challenging than every weekend doing return trips from near Wolverhampton through central London to near Dover.  The sole problem I had was with a tiny grubscrew.  This one secured a collar on a gear stick link lever to a gearbox gear selector shaft.  The push action into 1st gear was OK but the grub screw then fell out and allowed the gear stick to disengage from the gearbox and simply lay on the floor - so stuck in 1st gear!  Perhaps an unusual reason for difficulty in engaging 2nd gear!

I lied about it being the sole problem .  The car was also prone to over heating when getting into slow traffic when arriving in N London after a quick flog down the motorways.  All it needed was to keep moving - easier said than done 50 years ago.

It was however an extremely comfortable car in which to travel.  Have fun gents and be optimistic.  Keep smiling!

[G_Cam]

Great adventure. Have fun.. 
I have done a lot of stage rallying.. but not endurance.. but here is my 2p worth. in no specific order

Ensure everyone is familiar with the car and its workings. And is handy with mechanics or a hammer!
Keep spare wheel nuts in the glovebox
Add a second (Spare Coil beside the existing one for easy swap over)
Run all fuel and brake lines inside the car.
Take a small compressor/light etc.. (handy for blowing out fuel lines)
Fit a decent fuel line filter in an accessible (bulkhead?) location so you can swap out easily. Use a filter mesh when you will up with fuel.
Add Jacking points and consider a 'quick' rally (early VW type one as it can be more easily used for un-denting bodywork etc) or an air jack?
Its Easier to protect vulnerable components/etc. than repair while on the roadside
Do you need a 12v Welder? 
Pack stuff in the right order and secure stuff that you don't want stolen to save you having to remove it every night. Keep weight low down. 
Fit an FIA type cut off switch internally and use it every time you stop to protect your battery.
Switch to LED lights?
Wire headlights and any heavier loads via relays and upgrade your light switches.
Fit a navigator horn push, 12v socket and navigation light (with a spare lamp attached to the stalk). pen/.pencil holder and cup/bottle holders.
Consider a navigator foot rest and use an intercom to reduce stress and noise in your ears! (You can also switch your navigator/driver off if they annoy you lol)
Swap to more comfortable seats (with back/bolster support?)
Speak to folk to find the weak spots on the car and then re-enforce/plate them up before you hit the road. 
Take waterproof socks! ASK any one who did the RBRR this year.. 
Fit a roll over bar? Can you fit an LSD? 
Fit a simple mild steel exhaust (It can be welded) and get it as high as possible and protected with a skid plate?
Do you need to retain the anti-roll bar (Depends on the road surface). Don't make the suspension too stiff.. its endurance not racing.. 
Fit the 12v Battery (Do you need to upgrade it at the same time to HD?) into a battery box behind the seat on the floor with protection underneath
add a compass (take a standard one too) and clock that can be illuminated at the press of a button but runs off its own battery
Use LED/12V rechargeable torches with their own specific location in the car. Take head/hat mounted lights.
Take pvc/working gloves (Easier than cleaning grease off your hands)
Fix spare plugs and a fan belt (or two) securely under the bonnet/bulkhead area,
inspect/renew/replace heater pipes (Kevlar) Don't forget the under dash ones as they are often forgotten and often rotten!
Consider Rally/4x4 (reinforced sidewall and 13mm of tread) tyres with good tread 
photocopy all of you documents/passports (can you find a place for a secure/strong box and bolt it down)
Just don't take extra weight (like metric spanners and sockets) unless you need them. 

Go on a couple of shakedown events

 

Sorry its a bit off the top of my head 

Good Luck.. more time prepping means less time fixing.. 

The 'spares/repairs' box is one I can cover later if you wish?