kwmeakins Posted April 21, 2022 Share Posted April 21, 2022 after only 35 years of ownership of my spit 1500 i have done everything you can do to maintain and sort out the breaks on this car .i know them inside out and upside down .today i put new rear flexi break pipes on, the originals were looking a bit tired after 40 years .i have now spent over 2 hrs trying to bleed the system with no success i just get bubbles galore for ever and ever .having never had this problem before i need some advise as to probable cause and any ideas on how to rectify this. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted April 21, 2022 Share Posted April 21, 2022 What is your bleeding method? Hose in a jam jar? Plugged hose with a slit? Fancy valve thing? Eezybleed? Skilled assistant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Caygill Posted April 21, 2022 Share Posted April 21, 2022 I also had this problem. I opened one little bleeder at a time and just let it drip into a container, popping back every now and then to replenish the reservoir. It worked. I did the clutch like that also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 Are you sure it's not a fault with your hose ? or a sealing washer That air has to be coming from somewhere. Tony Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 Is the fluid level in the reservoir going down and youre having to top it up while bleeding? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 Sometimes air can be drawn from outside through the nipple threads. It may help to smear some grease around the nipple when bleading. I always grease my nipples 😋 Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 Yes my thoughts exactly and so the pedal should be pressed down reasonably quickly but released slowly to allow fluid to flow into the MC rather than pull air in elsewhere... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shenderson Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 I always start by adjusting the brakes right off and pushing the pistons in as far as they will go, with the nipple open, to push as much air as possible out of the cylinders before bleeding fluid through the system. Also, since the hydraulic circuit branches out at various points at T-pieces etc, if one brake is bled continuously, air may be drawn in to that line from the adjoining lines. Therefore it is usually necessary to bleed each brake in sequence and then repeat. Then go through the process again... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 24 minutes ago, shenderson said: I always start by adjusting the brakes right off and pushing the pistons in as far as they will go, with the nipple open, to push as much air as possible out of the cylinders before bleeding fluid through the system. Also, since the hydraulic circuit branches out at various points at T-pieces etc, if one brake is bled continuously, air may be drawn in to that line from the adjoining lines. Therefore it is usually necessary to bleed each brake in sequence and then repeat. Then go through the process again... I do the oppsite if I am having difficulty with bleeding. I wind the brake adjusters out. Actually, that may force the wheel cylinder pistons in? Whatever it does, I think having no available movement car help. The foolproof method is to have a (preferably) glamourous assistant working the break pedal while I open/close te bleed nipple so no air can be drawn in. A dollop of rubber grease around the nipple should do the same job. Or use a vacuum bleeder? A big syringe would do it. Recently had to swap a clutch slave on our MX5. That was a tricky little bugger, and needed manual open/closing of the nipple to bleed it. Clutch master on that used all plastic internals, the OEM seal kit came pre assembled and initially I thought it was a mock-up or suchlike, but no, removing the original that was exactly the same. Made me wonder about the brake master.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwmeakins Posted April 22, 2022 Author Share Posted April 22, 2022 17 hours ago, RobPearce said: What is your bleeding method? Hose in a jam jar? Plugged hose with a slit? Fancy valve thing? Eezybleed? Skilled assistant? 3 minutes ago, Clive said: I do the oppsite if I am having difficulty with bleeding. I wind the brake adjusters out. Actually, that may force the wheel cylinder pistons in? Whatever it does, I think having no available movement car help. The foolproof method is to have a (preferably) glamourous assistant working the break pedal while I open/close te bleed nipple so no air can be drawn in. A dollop of rubber grease around the nipple should do the same job. Or use a vacuum bleeder? A big syringe would do it. Recently had to swap a clutch slave on our MX5. That was a tricky little bugger, and needed manual open/closing of the nipple to bleed it. Clutch master on that used all plastic internals, the OEM seal kit came pre assembled and initially I thought it was a mock-up or suchlike, but no, removing the original that was exactly the same. Made me wonder about the brake master.... 17 hours ago, RobPearce said: What is your bleeding method? Hose in a jam jar? Plugged hose with a slit? Fancy valve thing? Eezybleed? Skilled assistant? jam jar and a length of 2x1to operate peddle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 22, 2022 Share Posted April 22, 2022 hmmm not the best way to release the pedal nice and gently😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwmeakins Posted April 25, 2022 Author Share Posted April 25, 2022 Re Brake bleeding after spending more hrs trying once more to bleed brakes this time with my son on peddle operation still no success .further developments are that when the peddle is released bubbles appear in the m c and even after several pumps the fluid level does not go down in the m c .all thoughts welcome. ta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 Sounds like a master cylinder issue to me. Is there free play for the pushrod? Could be seals as air is getting in at the master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 Fitting the original design rubber type?....or the s/s braided? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 Yes if the transfer port at the bottom of the mc reservoir were blocked then fluid wouldnt flow into the piston chamber and you would just pump air. On releasing the pedal air must be drawn in somewhere, possibly the bleed nipple thread.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
standardthread Posted April 25, 2022 Share Posted April 25, 2022 (edited) 1 hour ago, kwmeakins said: Re Brake bleeding after spending more hrs trying once more to bleed brakes this time with my son on peddle operation still no success .further developments are that when the peddle is released bubbles appear in the m c and even after several pumps the fluid level does not go down in the m c .all thoughts welcome. ta. Had a similar issue on my Dolomite clutch. I had to pump the pedal repeatedly very quickly to get the clutch to work. All the time I was getting masses of air bubbles circulating in the master. Turned out to be the seals in the master has become U/S over time pulling air in, but the clutch initially failed very quickly. I had replaced the seals in the slave a couple of weeks before so that probably triggered the seals in the master failing. I would have done the seals in both at the same time but didn't have the master seals 'in stock'. Edited April 25, 2022 by standardthread forgot something Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wendy Dawes Posted May 5, 2022 Share Posted May 5, 2022 On 21/04/2022 at 15:36, kwmeakins said: after only 35 years of ownership of my spit 1500 i have done everything you can do to maintain and sort out the breaks on this car .i know them inside out and upside down .today i put new rear flexi break pipes on, the originals were looking a bit tired after 40 years .i have now spent over 2 hrs trying to bleed the system with no success i just get bubbles galore for ever and ever .having never had this problem before i need some advise as to probable cause and any ideas on how to rectify this. thanks If there are no obvious leaks on the system, try loosening the cap on the master r cylinder, don’t fully remove it, then use a piece of wood to hold the pedal down by wedging it against the seat, and leave it overnight. This should force the air out of the system. an old trick passed on by a wise old mechanic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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