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Dynamo testing


Dave Clasper

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2 hours ago, Dave Clasper said:

Thanks, a "problem" rather than "problems".  Ltd time, so has been taken up with gearbox rebuild, quite a few other repairs and ongoing maintenance.

At a stage with a bit more free time now.

Cheers, Dave 

I meant problems with the same thing Dave, i would be thinking "it's out to get me " :-)   Hope you get it sorted.

Tony.

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Cheers Tony.  My lack of experience is probably not helping. Going by the book/s has maybe led me up the garden path as far as testing dynamos goes, if they are in fact, ok.

I take my battery off after use, an an extra "anti theft" measure, as car lives on the street, so not too much extra bother to charge it and could leave me stuck at some point I guess and would like tick the issue off my to do list.

Edited by Dave Clasper
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Hi Glang. Have swopped the current dynamo today (a C40, rather than C40L, that was given to me and I put on just to see if changed anything with the charging), for the re-con one. Should be able to the voltage test tom. I seem to remember the test is at idle?. No need to see what happens at higher revs/Lights etc, switched on?.

Cheers  

Edited by Dave Clasper
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Did voltage test at idle. Around 12.37

Don't know if it means anything, with full beam, it gave 11.93.

Without lights of it took around 2000 rpm to get to around 13.5

Also tried a neighbours known to be ok, heavier duty battery.  Gave around 15 higher on the tests.

 

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That doesnt sound so good Dave. I take it the battery was well charged and the voltage readings stable?

The regulator should be adjusted to start giving an output at between 12.7 - 13.3v and then control the generator open circuit output to 14.7 - 15.3v (@20º and 2200rpm). The regulator contacts can wear and change these readings so adjustment of the unit is necessary. The manual is very clear on how to do it but it needs a methodical patient approach - have you had a read through it?

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Thanks. Both batteries were fully charged.

Are we now saying the dynamo is potentially ok?

Is it worth checking the 2 cables from dynamo to control box for contanuety. I haven't got buzzer on the meter, can the resistance/oms function do this.

Is it worth cleaning the control box contacts, before adjustement?.

Also could the Amp meter wiring be at fault/wrong causing this?.

Sorry, a lot of questions.

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yes dynamos good and yes check cable/connection resistance but power is definitely passing through the regulator because the system voltage goes up with revs.

Cant see ammeter connection could be a causing this.

Cleaning contacts worthwhile but do it and any testing/adjustment as per manual - have you got one?

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6 hours ago, glang said:

yes dynamos good and yes check cable/connection resistance but power is definitely passing through the regulator because the system voltage goes up with revs.

Cant see ammeter connection could be a causing this.

Cleaning contacts worthwhile but do it and any testing/adjustment as per manual - have you got one?

 

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yes the regulator comes off pretty easily (the cardboard underdash facia is the biggest obstacle) and then the cover is removed by pushing out the plastic rivets. The manual has instructions on the cleaning of the contacts as its important not to over do it. Also it shows the adjustment of the different functions for which theres a special tool but Im sure something can be fabricated...

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Hi.  Funnily enough a local guy I was chatting to when I was switching my dynamo over, said he may have a RB 340 I can have. That was a bit back, though he knocked on my door with it today !.

Said he couldn't remember what car it was off, though thought it was probably taken off for an Alternator conversion. Looks tidy from the outside?.

Worth putting on to see what happens?.

If so, anything to keep an eye when trying it out?.  eg, If my Amp meter is not wired up correctly?, it won't stuff the control box?.

Thanks, Dave

 

 

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I know the RB340 is used on many different cars but think they are set up differently so have separate part numbers. See if this one has a part number or current rating (might be inside) as the regulator also protects the dynamo from overload.

Cant see the ammeter causing a problem...

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Thanks (especially for your patience so far Glang).

Well the donated control box is maybe a 22 amp one (not 25 amp).

Has 12V 12 78 stamped underneath and below this the PN? 37572 B.

I have gone short on time again so wondering about a few, quicker, possible options for the time being?.

Will it cause danger/destruction to fit it, or just less performance? (which would be an improvement for the time being on what I have now).

Could I try it briefly to see if the charging has improved and then now, can assume the old control is not doing it's job.

Again for the time being, could I swap back the C40 dynamo as maybe compatible with this control box.

I do want to keep the car pretty original if pos, and don't mind spending around £25, on the correct control box if it comes to that (if I can't revive the old one with adjustment, It appears the new Alternators are maybe not always great anyway?).

I have done some reading up on control boxes, though a bit above my head to understand it to any level.

Thanks, Dave

 

 

 

Edited by Dave Clasper
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Ive found units being sold on ebay that show as being suitable for use in place of both the original Vitesse regulator 37342 and your 37572 so I guess theres not much difference between them other than the max current limit setting. Based on this I think you could carefully (you dont know if this unit has any problems) try it on your car and see what system voltage reading you get with the engine running... 

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