Martins Stag Posted May 18, 2021 Share Posted May 18, 2021 Now that the DVSA have said that you can use LED bulbs in headlights I am looking to see what is out there and the range seems to vary from £20 odd for a couple of Chinese LED bulbs (sorry I am thinking H4 headlights here) to almost a couple of hundred pounds.... What I am looking for is something in the middle that reduces the load on the wiring/charging, give better lighting. doesn't look any different from the outside (so ideally a slight yellow tinge rather than brilliant white that I think looks very odd and that re used the headlight bowels and for not too much money. Am I expecting too much or is there something out there that people can recommend? Its for a Stag but that isn't really relevant Any advice would be gratefully received Martin Marrison Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard Posted May 18, 2021 Share Posted May 18, 2021 Martin I can recommend Better Car Lighting - Gil Keane. Web site Better Car Lighting H4 headlight bulbs I have these on my TR7 & one of the reasons was to reduce the electrical load. They are bright and really light the road ahead in the dark. (One caveat for TR7 owners is that the headlamp flash system has to be modified to accept LED headlights) Howard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DVD3500 Posted May 18, 2021 Share Posted May 18, 2021 My company's firewall is blocking the site. Old certificate or something.... Might want to let him know... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martins Stag Posted May 18, 2021 Author Share Posted May 18, 2021 Howard Yes I have seen Better car lighting but they are £140. I am sure they are very good but is there something that is any good for a bit less than that? Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappy Posted May 18, 2021 Share Posted May 18, 2021 I am told putting relays close to the headlamps makes a huge difference to standard lighting. Not got round to doing my 2000 yet. Alf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted May 18, 2021 Share Posted May 18, 2021 I've got Nighteye bulbs in the van and Herald. The van ones have a fan and the ones in the Herald are passive. They required the back of the bowls cutting to make room for the heatsink. Do a bit if research into the COB and CSP chips before you purchase. Both sets of headlights have plastic lenses and also have reflectors so don't rely on the glass to provide the beam pattern. This can make a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batch Posted May 18, 2021 Share Posted May 18, 2021 Hi You could also have a look at https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/. I've used them and Gil Keane at Better car lighting in the past with equal success. I do find the classic car leds website much easier to use though and they do complete sets of led bulbs for many Triumphs Dave 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McJim Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 I was considering LED lights to replace my halogens in the Spitfire. However, can someone answer this, do I need to cut the cowling at the back of the headlight to allow cooling? And do they require a relay fitted as my lights only go through the switch? Jim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 18 minutes ago, McJim said: I was considering LED lights to replace my halogens in the Spitfire. However, can someone answer this, do I need to cut the cowling at the back of the headlight to allow cooling? And do they require a relay fitted as my lights only go through the switch? Jim. No relay required, as current draw is about 1/5th that of halogens. And LEDs often have a wide range of operating voltage, so a small voltage drop due to age etc won't matter. I have not fitted LEDs, but the ones without a cooling fan (which sounds a problem longer term) have heatsinks fitted behind, so either cutting the back off the bowl, or "backless" bowls are available. Of course, removing the back of the bowl makes liek rater easier for bulb changing as you don't have to remove the whole assembly. My biggest issue (apart from beam shape issues with some LEDs) is that they are all the very "white" colour, I would prefer the warmer, yellowish tinge as a bit more relaxing on the eyes. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McJim Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 Thanks Clive. Jim. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batch Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 Hi I've fitted LEDs to both my TRs and the 2.5 when I had it, and the only thing I had to do to the bowls was to open up the existing hole for the lead to pass through. The LED units have a water proof connector on the lead from the bulb which is too big to pass through the existing hole and join with the lead from the control box. Both of the companies mentioned earlier in the string have a 'warm white' option for the LEDs as well as the original 'white' white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martins Stag Posted May 19, 2021 Author Share Posted May 19, 2021 Dave and Batch just looked at https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/ and the H4 pair of bulbs in warm white are £61.25for a pair so more in my price range... Many thanks Martin P.S. Clive warm white specially to protect your eyes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McJim Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 I was looking at those ones too. Just concerned about them overheating in the bowls behind the headlight unit. How big a hole to allow sufficient cooling? Don't want them failing in the dark of Wales on the RBRR. Jim. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hunt Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 I was impressed by the Nighteye LED headlights on Allan Chatterton's car on the 2018 RBRR and invested in an H4 pair for the 4A immediately afterwards. The beauty of LEDs is that they are far more efficient at converting electrical energy into light rather than heat when compared with incandescent filament bulbs. The pair cost under £20 two years ago and I was impressed with the packaging, fitting instructions and construction. No fans are involved, the bulbs having ribbed aluminium heat sinks and since the light sources are very small they can be positioned to exactly mimic the position of the filaments in a halogen bulb so the beam pattern is unaltered. There is a sharp asymmetric cut off on dip with excellent spread and good reach on main beam. No oncoming drivers ever flash me and I had no problems on MoT test even before the guidelines were changed officially allowing the retro fitment of LED headlight bulbs in our cars. The rear of the bulbs sit out a bit further in the headlight bowl and the associated wiring is a bit more bulky but they fitted in the existing bowls on my car with no problem. Big plus for me is the much reduced power consumption since I am still running with a dynamo. Strongly recommend. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McJim Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 (edited) Tim, Be careful flashing your lights in remote country settings. You may attract the kind of attention you don't want. Jim. Edited May 19, 2021 by McJim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hunt Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 😀😀😀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ferny Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Batch Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 H1 Jim, I don't have any holes for cooling in the headlight bowl on the TR6, and they've never let me down even in darkest Wales on the RBRR. Mine do have a large metal (aluminium alloy?) heatsink fitted to the them, similar to https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/12-volt-collection/products/latest-led-headlights-h4-philips-z-es-hi-lo-beam-conversion-9-32v. If I had put cooling holes in the head light bowl it would mean that road crud would be getting into the headlight bowl as they are exposed to the front wheels. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 I used Duncan at https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs/Headlight-Bulbs-&-Adapters he's a great help and the mot guy has never complained about the bulbs, I fitted mine way back in 2016, and since I have upgraded all our cars and my bike, they are a vast improvement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 On 18/05/2021 at 13:07, Howard said: Martin I can recommend Better Car Lighting - Gil Keane. Web site Better Car Lighting H4 headlight bulbs I have these on my TR7 & one of the reasons was to reduce the electrical load. They are bright and really light the road ahead in the dark. (One caveat for TR7 owners is that the headlamp flash system has to be modified to accept LED headlights) Howard I use led on my 7 but the headlight flash still works. I got mine from classic car leds. I didn't fancy cheap Chinese stuff. The light pattern is excellent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 7 hours ago, McJim said: I was looking at those ones too. Just concerned about them overheating in the bowls behind the headlight unit. How big a hole to allow sufficient cooling? Don't want them failing in the dark of Wales on the RBRR. Jim. Jim the H4 bulbs i got for my 7 have a screw on heatsink, they can go on either way with my 7 bowls i turned the around to more fit the contour of the bowl. I had to enlarge the wiring hole marginally to fit through a round plug which goes to a supply box. The headlight wiring plug connects to this. I used some electrical prongs to remove the plastic on the wiring to take the original plug back through the bowl. Wish i had taken some pics now! The light is much better I am pleased i paid more for a decent LED as there are some poor ones out there with awful light patterns. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hunt Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 I must admit I was not expecting much from the Nighteyes for the price but, as I said, I had been very impressed by their performance on another car on the last RBRR and so far no complaints on mine - a very well controlled beam pattern with sharp cut off and certainly no falling off in performance to date. I reckon the issue of heat dissipation is a bit of a non issue. I have felt the (metal) headlamp bowls on my car after a long night drive and they remain cool to the touch. I also recall Alan Chatterton telling me that he had noticed falling snow building up on a headlamp lens with an LED bulb fitted whereas a halogen bulb would keep the snow melted. This is another indication of the much lower heat generation from an LED. I am not bothered by this potential disadvantage since the likelihood of me ever driving the TR in falling snow is vanishingly small. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted May 19, 2021 Share Posted May 19, 2021 Heaven forbid driving in the snow, if there is a cloud in the sky the GT6 stays in the garage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Howard Posted May 20, 2021 Share Posted May 20, 2021 (edited) 12 hours ago, Matt306 said: I use led on my 7 but the headlight flash still works. I got mine from classic car leds. I didn't fancy cheap Chinese stuff. The light pattern is excellent. Matt, The TR7 pektron flash unit earths through the bulb filament & when the conventional bulbs are changed to LED's the resistance is increased and the flash circuit no longer works properly. This could be resolved by modifying the internal circuit in the Pektron, but the simplest way around this is to fit a 6.5 Ohm 50W resistor in the power circuit to a dipped bulb - see attached photo. Without this the flash function should not work, unless your car has another path to earth for the pektron, so would be interested to find out. I strongly support with your comment about cheap Chinese stuff when safety is concerned. Cheers Howard Edited May 20, 2021 by Howard clarification of comment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted May 20, 2021 Share Posted May 20, 2021 (edited) 4 hours ago, Howard said: Matt, The TR7 pektron flash unit earths through the bulb filament & when the conventional bulbs are changed to LED's the resistance is increased and the flash circuit no longer works properly. This could be resolved by modifying the internal circuit in the Pektron, but the simplest way around this is to fit a 6.5 Ohm 50W resistor in the power circuit to a dipped bulb - see attached photo. Without this the flash function should not work, unless your car has another path to earth for the pektron, so would be interested to find out. I strongly support with your comment about cheap Chinese stuff when safety is concerned. Cheers Howard Howard not done any more to my wiring than fit the LEDs and supply unit. I have previously fitting relays for headlights though, although probably dont need them now with LEDs. Here is the product i used https://www.classiccarleds.co.uk/collections/headlight-led-bulbs/products/latest-led-headlights-h4-philips-z-es-hi-lo-beam-conversion-9-32v Edited May 20, 2021 by Matt306 forgot product link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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