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Worn spindle, or carb body?


TR7th Heaven

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Me again,
My right hand carb (CD150) is letting in air on the right hand side which is causing uneven tickover and leaner running on that side. There's no question about where the air is getting in. However, my father and I disagree as to whether it's the spindle that's worn or the hole in the carb body that the spindle sits in.
I think it's the spindle, Dad's sure it's the body and therefore wants to replace the carb for a good secondhand one as just replacing the spindle won't work in his opinion.
Is this possible? I've done a search and can find plenty of posts about worn spindles and how much better cars run (esp. improved tickover) when replaced but can't find anything that mentions the hole in the carb body wearing and letting in air.
Also, is there another method of blocking the air hole such as fitting a bush?
Any help would be appreciated (again!)
Rich  ;)

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Hi Rich

I bought an SU HS4 kit complete with butterflies, spindles and bushes. The SU spindles run in bushes not directly in the body of the carb so would assume stromberg's would be the same. Problem is the bushes are a real job to get out, and I damaged the body trying. I would leave it to an engineer to ream them out as they need to be fitted perfectly so the spindle and butterfly run true.

Blue

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Good post! How bad is the tickover? I only ask as I may have a similar problem and had a bit of a job balancing my carbs. Its running relatively ok now, but once the engone is warmed up there is a little fluctuation now and again, but I thought this maybe something else?

Whats the best way for checking if I may have air getting in on the spindle?

Be interested to hear the outcome on this post!

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93 wrote:
Hi Rich

I bought an SU HS4 kit complete with butterflies, spindles and bushes. The SU spindles run in bushes not directly in the body of the carb so would assume stromberg's would be the same. Problem is the bushes are a real job to get out, and I damaged the body trying. I would leave it to an engineer to ream them out as they need to be fitted perfectly so the spindle and butterfly run true.

Blue


I've removed the spindles on mine and there were no bushes

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No, no bushes on mine either.
The car won't idle at less than 900rpm and is happiest about 1100rpm. Too fast for a tickover. It smoothes out after that and returned good mpg last summer but seems worse this year. I can physically see the gap between the spindle end and the hole it sits it. I can wiggle it about and when I put my carb balancer on to the carbs the right hand carb was clearly taking in a lot more air than the left which isn't nearly as worn.
Rich  ;)

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So, it stalls at less than 900rpm. Mine will idle around 600-650rpm ok, but does fluctuate every 4-5 secs.

I didn't have too much success with my carb balancer and went for the hose pipe in the ear trick for balancing. Found one of the carbs was slightly louder than the other, but adjusted both for correct pitch. Wondering if the loudness of one over the other means extra air??

Even though the car is running ok now (totally new electrics n electronic ignition), your post has tempted me think about my spindles too.....whilst idle is ok, it's still not perfect (but then mayeb I'm being too much of a perfectionist) the car is after all 47 years old.....

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Probably wear in both body and spindle, The best solution would be machine the body, fit bushes and fit new spindle,Then you know it's ok. Buy a s/h carby and you're probably no further ahead.
Do it right once and forget about it  ;D

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I spoke to ne of the well known carb rebuilders about this. He recommended replacing the carb with good SH if the body was bad. Reason being it is VERY difficult to get the machining done well enough. It cannot be done with a black and decker at home, a lathe and skilled operator is needed.
Saying that, new spindles usually get rid of the vast majority of he wear. If you can whip the spindle out, and test the actual carb body, you may find that is the case

What I find odd is that the carb balancer is registering the air. If it was via the spindle, the air wouldn't pass the gauge??
Try sealing the spindles with a good dollop of heavy grease, see if that helps. In fact years ago heard somebody do a temp fix with silicone sealant to make an o-ring. It is just possible that the butterfly is not sitting correctly, or has been fitted back to front, causing the same symptoms.

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The wear is due to abrasive particles which tend to imbed in the softer metal (the diecast body in this case) and abrade the harder metal ( the brass spindle in this case).
So good chance the majority of the wear is in the spindle.

Boring and fitting bearings is not easy as has been said.  Trying to bore on original centre is difficult in an off-centre/oval hole when there is nothing to centre up on but the design is fairly forgiving as the throttle plate can be moved around a bit in the spindle.

Probably replacing spindles will be good enough but measure the wear on the spindles to see what you are dealing with.  In old cars the spindles may well have been replaced already at some stage and the wear in the 'bearings" may be significant.

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http://www.carbex.demon.co.uk/

will profeesionally rebore and bush your old body,, quite cheaply, think we paid about £8

based in Leighton Buzzard  small Co that repairs everything from your strom to a combine harvester or a 1912  daimler

check the open hours  and give them a call  


Pete

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