Bloody Brakes!

[Tom2000]

Being the sensible type I decided given it was reasonable weather to skip lectures this morning and replace the front brakes (discs & pads). Now I've not done this on a Spitfire before but figured it can't be that hard so stripped all the necerssary bits off so I could remove the hub to then remove the bolts and replace the disc.. BUT.. I can't shift the bloody thing!

There are absolutely no bolts/nuts holding it in place, just the brake bearing (i think) where it attaches to the bottom wishbone seems to be well and truely wedged in place.. any ideas? Photo:

[99176]

Not the way I normally remove a disc.
Surely easier to work from the outside / in ??

[Richard B]

99176 wrote:

Not the way I normally remove a disc.
Surely easier to work from the outside / in ??

Agreed, thats a taper fit on the stub axle, a real sod to get off.

Take outer dust shield off, remove split pin, undo hub nut, pull hub a disc off of car, avoid dropping bearings in the shit.  :B

[Tom2000]

I was told that you need to take the entire hub off, if I remove the calipers and the dust shield I have enough access to remove the four bolts holding the hub on one at a time problem is they are very tight and the disc just spins meaning I can't get the bolts off to take the disc off.. ?

[Richard B]

You normally do this in a vise.

Alternatively if you have a helper return the hub and caliper to the stub axle and have someone apply the brakes to lock the disc so you can loosen the bolts.

[heraldcoupe]

You need a workshop manual.
The hub is held on by a single nut on the outside face of the hub, under the grease cap. Undo this and the hub will come off easily, but be careful not to drop or contaminate the bearing races which may drop out as it comes apart. Sounds like you're trying to undo all sorts of wrong bits.......
Cheers,
Bill.

[James]

Even a Rimmers Catalogue would be useful!

[Steve Cureton]

And do NOT overtighten the wheel bearing nut - do as these guys say and get yourself a manual.

[James]

Or even...!

http://www.canleyclassics.com/catalogue.asp?id=herald1360_frontsuspension&scale=large

[Tom2000]

I went got myself one today *sigh* about time eh?

[Bob Bowling]

I do find it worrying that people try to do safety critical work on things like brakes without really knowing what they are doing. Please for your own sake get the manual and understand your limitations before you start the job. By al means have a go at something, but if you aren't certain, get some advice first and have the work checked before you venture out on the road.

[monty69]

06228 wrote:

I do find it worrying that people try to do safety critical work on things like brakes without really knowing what they are doing. Please for your own sake get the manual and understand your limitations before you start the job. By al means have a go at something, but if you aren't certain, get some advice first and have the work checked before you venture out on the road.

Most definitely, I am not going knock anyone having ago. But get it checked out.

And always make sure you have an axle stand under the car and don't rely on a sissors jack

[junkuser]

Agree with you Bob, but how do you make someone aware that they do not have sufficient knowledge to do the job so that they"aren't certain"?
When young we are long on confidence and short on experience and when old we are long on experience and short on confidence as we have learned so much more of what really can happen.
The more you know the more you realise you don't know.

[Tom2000]

The car is off the road anyway and by the time I get to tax it the car will need an MOT as well, appreciate the unintended patronising comments of care though!

[Deleted User]

Tom2000 wrote:

The car is off the road anyway and by the time I get to tax it the car will need an MOT as well, appreciate the unintended patronising comments of care though!

Tom, my comment below is not aimed specifically at you, but the spirit applies.

You should NEVER rely on the MOT to check the quality of your work, especially work on safety critical items.  

If you are not confident in your ability to perform the repair, then pay a professional to do it for you.

If a negligently repaired item fails in service and causes a serious accident, the ensuing Police investigation could result in criminal charges being laid against the person who performed negligent repair.  The insurance company may also invalidate your insurance.

[Scottie55]

Hi Tom,

Good on you for making a brave attempt to fix your brakes. I would suggest you do the following, with the help of your new manual;

- refit the stub axle nut and make sure its torqued correctly. No need to remove the sub axle.
- remove the bearing hub split pin & nut  
- remove the hub assy from the stub axle and change your brake disc
- reassemble per the manual

Your only about an hour away from finishing the job.

Best of luck, Roy

[Slimboyfat]

How about prizing it off with that claw hammer?

[Velocita Rosso]

....and whilst its all in bits you may as well check the wheel bearings. If not been changed since it arrived from a galaxy far far away, then change them for the sake of a few quid (£10.00)

[Richard B]

Tom I don't think anyone meant to be patronising. But having seen an insecure car fall whilst being worked on, I'm paranoid about it as I'm sure others are.

If you have not got a pair of axle stands then please invest in a pair. From the photo it looks like the scissor jack is supporting the car.

Lifes a learning curve, you should see some of the monumental cock-ups I've done working on cars.  :B

Well done for starting this job, that disc does look shagged!

[heraldcoupe]

Richard_B wrote:

Tom I don't think anyone meant to be patronising. But having seen an insecure car fall whilst being worked on, I'm paranoid about it as I'm sure others are.

A few months ago I was at A&E with my son after a tumble from his scooter. One of the more serious injuries that went ahead of us was a guy who's car had come off a jack on top of him......
Cheers,
Bill.

[James]

I've been next to a Jag Mk2 when it fell off a 2 post lift - that was scary :)

But yeah - lots of axle stands... as much support as possible...

Also - have you got a torque wrench? You'll need one to know how tight to do up some of the nuts - the stub axle one is quite tight :)

[Richard B]

and following on from Kevin's H&S post. If you remove old nylock nuts they should be replaced be new nylock nuts as the nylon takes a set and will not grip as well a second time.

[PeterBoltryk]

Tom, just to add to Richard's comments - replacing nylocs with new - best place for to stock up on UNF fasteners in Southampton (well, from what I've found over the last few years) is Lawsons HIS, near the main train station.  Kingstons motor factors (opposite Waitrose / the Gordon Arms do a little, but their range is limited).  Let me know if you need a hand with anything, although 'er indoors won't be too impressed that I'm neglecting my own GT6  :).  Also, I've got a torque wrench if you need to borrow one - you know where to find me now! Peter

[PeterBoltryk]

oh, and axle stands.  Fairly certain I've got two spare at the moment...

[Andromeda]

Hi Tom, this is my first item to be hopefully posted. I really think that you should get someone in to help you with this job. It's brakes we are talking about here. There must be someone who will do or show you the proper procedure to do this relatively simple but IMPORTANT job! You appear to have undone totally the wrong nuts. A manual, possibly Haynes would help you no end but another experienced person is a real good substitute. I ran my own Triumph business (in a small way) for 11 years and still do a bit and some of the things I saw as a 'first attempt' would make your blood run cold. Also, get some stands, when they fall they fall quickly and painfully! John.  :)  (Northants)