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Brakes - Are they just for show?


Wheelman

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Posted

The brakes on my Herald 13/60 do not really contribute much to slowing the vehicle down, and I have to resort to leaving a really big gap between me and the car in front, and using engine braking.  I don't remember the brakes on my original 13/60 which I had in the seventies being so poor, or is it that I am just used to modern car brakes?  There is plenty of meat on the front pads, and the calipers are free as they seem to do something when the car is on axial stands.  I have replace the rear shoes, but as they don't contribute much to the braking performance anyway, there was no change.  

Any ideas?

Posted

can you lock the wheels up with them if you really give the pedal some wellie? if not then somethings wrong, spongy pedal? padsa re naff, discs glazed?the rears dont do much, yes they arnt quote as potent as moderns and ou have push harder but they should still stop the car ok!

Posted

Have you adjusted the rear properly so they don't give you lots of slack when using the brakes?
When was the fluid last changed?
Does the pedal pump at all?
Are you sure there are no leaks?
How old are the tyres and are they good ones?
What brand of pads are you using?

Standard brakes should be able to throw you through the windscreen.

Posted

I am pushing hard and they are not spongy. I think the brake pedal would bend double before the front wheels locked.  How can I tell if the discs are glazed?  If they are, can they be recovered, or do they have to be replaced?

Posted

I'm sure Mintex pads are great but they are expensive. Your Herald should be able to lock the wheels with (good quality) standard pads. If not you have another problem.

Posted

I have to admit that I don't know the origin of the pads that are fitted, as they were on the car when I bought it (with new MoT!). What do you mean by expensive?  An axial set for my modern family hatch are £90, but they do really work.

Posted

I have very recently fitted some 1144s to my Vitesse after trying several other types over the last year or so.

At last I can lock the front wheels without bending the pedal - I'm a believer now!  Many current pads appear to use the same composition as 'modern' cars (which have servos) and require far too much pedal pressure.

Next best I have tried were EBC 'black stuff' (green stuff were v poor) and some old stock asbestos ones.

It is of course worth checking the condition of your braking system - especially that caliper pistons and cylinders are not seized.  Having the wrong size master cylinder fitted (too large bore) will also give a very hard pedal.

Good luck

Nick

Posted

Dave we are talking about a 13/60 here, aren't we?

Get the standard system up to scratch before you start souping it up.

Go through Fernys check list

Is the pedal solid? Are the rears adjusted? Is the fluid fresh? (air or water in system)
Are the hoses ok? (ballooning or collapsed)
Seized pistons?
Glazed disks

Maybe take it to a friendly MOT place and just get the brakes tested see if they are up to par?

Posted

Richard_B wrote:
Dave we are talking about a 13/60 here, aren't we?


Maybe take it to a friendly MOT place and just get the brakes tested see if they are up to par?


The MoT places have been passing the Vitesse for years even though the brakes were dreadful.  How he managed to lock the wheels I just don't know!

I went right through and replaced slave cyls and overhauled calipers etc - still crap.  Just insufficient friction between pad and disc.  Was seriously considering a servo! But I knew that my old Herald with Vitesse brakes (and decent old stock lockheed asbestos pads) had excellent brakes without servo!

with 1144 all servo thoughts abandoned!  Totally agree with Dave - modern pad compositions are unsuitable for cars without servos

Nick

Posted

i am very fond of some of the ferodo pads,  i fitted ferodo shoes (rear) in my 'modern' car and with cheapo 15quid pads on the fron the handbrake was more effective than the fronts after a little deceleration,   slowing down routine used to be downshift, brake... wait for fade and then pull on the handbrake.  NEVER skimp on friction materials, ie brakes and tyres, I think fitting chapo stuff is far more irresposnsible (and downright dangerous) than speeding

Posted

davesideways wrote:
Read the thread mate!

I gave a long list and links to type14 caliper pads!


i read the endless list of years and car makes, asuming thats a list of same shape pads, but doesent the brake pad company just have a code/number for the corect shape pad? or am i limited to going to the parts counter asking for pads for all the diferent cars?    

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