rotoflex Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 My vertical link actually. It's a used item that's been beadblasted & wire wheeled.Pitting is present above the threaded section for the trunnion.The fellow at the machine shop who bead blasted them said he got them on the magnafluxer the best he he could, which was not optimum because of their shape, & they seemed OK.Should these be OK?
junkuser Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 Well I would not trust them Bill.The pits give localised stress points in an area that already localises the stress due to the change in diameter and sharpness of the thread cut.The pits could also be deeper than you realise.Just my opinion though, Mal.
Pom Down Under Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 Anybody got examples of broken ones? Without ever having seen one before I'd put quids on them actually breaking at the first thread and not in the area immediately above - even if pitted. (think)That having been said, is that a fracture forming in the pitted area (1st picture)?
mpbarrett Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 The threads look worn at the top so the trunnions are going to be a loose fit.Mike
aar0sc Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 I've taken a good look at your trunnions...Then I came online and you've put up a photo of your uprights!? Confused, me :P
uksnatcher Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 1379 wrote:Anybody got examples of broken ones? Without ever having seen one before I'd put quids on them actually breaking at the first thread and not in the area immediately above - even if pitted. Spot on Pom....they break at the 1st thread that has fatigued from years of trapped moisture around the rubber seal.
Paudman Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 Two more. I wouldn't risk using anything I thought was doubtful, it's scary at 60 mph wondering if your front wheels are going to come off... and it may be more prevalent at low speed, but even so it's not nice when it happens. New ones if possible - for peace of mind if nothing else!
Mr Elsie Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 Go me worried now... Do I check mine or continue to be blissfully unaware. Any checks that can be made without taking the suspension to bits...also what type of driving would normally equate to failure as I tend to be more a less a "driving miss daisy" style opposed to the "how sideways will it go"
rotoflex Posted July 27, 2012 Author Posted July 27, 2012 Thank you all for your opinions & examples. I am now in the process of ordering a couple from Canley's.Do you suppose corrosion in this area could be forestalled by a different type of seal?Also, I wonder if uprights with this corrosion could be conserved by some process. There is a company which builds up crankshafts that have worn too far through a process that involves welding them underwater & then grinding them down, & if that would work for this problem. The stresses are different, of course.
John Bonnett Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 My new vertical links arrived today. Like Mr Elsie, I've been worried for some time that one or the other is going to break and I feel that the only sure way to avoid it is to buy new. Fit and forget, I hope!
Velocita Rosso Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 uksnatcher wrote:Spot on Pom....they break at the 1st thread that has fatigued from years of trapped moisture around the rubber seal....or because they have not been lubricated regularly and the threads seize together, turn the wheel/link and then they shear as they are not turning on the threads
Docman Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 Hard to put a price on piece of mind. I had my uprights apart fairly recently and installed new trunnions along with shocks and springs. There was some pitting on the threads - I showed them to a mate at work who has MANY toy cars including an Elite and Moodini that he races and he told me I was overly concerned and paranoid.Years back I actually had an upright break on a TR4 at 70 mph on a motorway; I had to make a panic stop with the wheels turned to avoid rear ending the car in front of me, but that was my 1st (in)experience with Triumph front end lubrication coupled with excessive lateral loading. The car gave me a vibrational warning before it broke; too bad I didn't know how to interpret the warning.If and when I decide to replace my GT6 uprights, I will probably go trunnionless 1) for the piece of mind and 2) each of my repairs usually involve an upgrade. This may be either the next time I need brake pads or when I replace my bushings (unless the uprights break, first). I don't drive my car very hard or far, but you can never predict events like panic stops, either.My Europa had original uprights, but front end weight was minimal when compared to a GT6.
Doug Paterson Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 AnotherAlso broke at the thread.The new one is an ex-california upright.
rotoflex Posted July 27, 2012 Author Posted July 27, 2012 It will be interesting when I get the present uprights off the car to examine them.I wonder if an accordion-type seal that goes up higher on the unthreaded part of the post would keep the corrosion away.
junkuser Posted July 27, 2012 Posted July 27, 2012 The seal is poor in design Bill as it does act as a water reservoir encouraging corrosion in the region of the upper threads but difficult to design a better one for the shapes involved and that movement.A parallel section above the thread and a lip seal secured to the trunnion would have been better. The original seal was a cost effective design at the time, but its effectiveness decreases as it looses its elasticity and compliance. I wonder how old the seals were on the uprights that have failed.
uksnatcher Posted July 28, 2012 Posted July 28, 2012 The one i had snap could (and probably) was original and looked well maintained so good chance it was 40 yrs old, gave it a bit of a shock fitting 15" wheels and sticky tyres.I assume a new upright with a standard seal, with regular oiling would be good for many years and could outlive the car its fitted to.
Velocita Rosso Posted July 28, 2012 Posted July 28, 2012 rotoflex wrote:I wonder if an accordion-type seal that goes up higher on the unthreaded part of the post would keep the corrosion away......but the old fashioned way of slapping grease all around the top end and underneath the seal will.These DIY programmes like `A Car is Born` are the worst things to be shown for instruction into car maintenance /assembly,as when you watch the programme you never see a pot of grease anywhere near what they assemble!
JimGT6 Posted July 29, 2012 Posted July 29, 2012 Most of us have obtained our cars as the second third or fourth owner. P.M. was probably not high on the P.O.'s list.I was the third owner when I got my 72 GT6 in 1977 and basically rescued the car from the second owner. When you install the new vertical links, I am sure you will keep them "properly" lubed. I don't think corrosion will be a problem going forward.Jim
Doug Paterson Posted July 29, 2012 Posted July 29, 2012 3273 wrote:Most of us have obtained our cars as the second third or fourth owner. In my case - 10th owner :-/
Paudman Posted July 29, 2012 Posted July 29, 2012 13 owners in 23 years.... I had to replace slightly more than the vertical links.... ;D
WIMPUS Posted July 29, 2012 Posted July 29, 2012 490 wrote:13 owners in 23 years.... I had to replace slightly more than the vertical links.... ;DI'm 3rd owner from 1987 till now of my spit :) how many there where from 1978 till 1987 .. i don't know :-/
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