nang Posted August 23, 2014 Posted August 23, 2014 Checking bits and pieces to see why O/d not working.Solenoid clicks but I took it out to have a look anyway.How much travel should the pushrod have ? Connected to a battery but movement seems minimal.ThanksTony. Quote
Nick Jones Posted August 23, 2014 Posted August 23, 2014 It's actually a hydraulic pilot valve and not a mechanical actuator like the A & D type ones. That's why it has the two O-rings on it. These O-rings matter btw as if they don't seal then the oil goes the wrong way and the OD doesn't work.Nick Quote
nang Posted August 24, 2014 Author Posted August 24, 2014 Thanks for the replies. Dug out the spare gearbox from the back of the shed. Removed solenoid and checked it. About the same amount of travel so I guess they're both ok.Will check wiring when I have the S mobile.Tony. Quote
Richard B Posted August 26, 2014 Posted August 26, 2014 Nick_Jones wrote:These O-rings matter btw as if they don't seal then the oil goes the wrong way and the OD doesn't work.Thanks Nick, makes me wonder if that is what is wrong with my Stag J Type O/D?It was fine but then cut out after 40 miles, now it wil cut in when cold but immediately cut out and then wont work until the car has been left standing for a while. Quote
Pete Lewis Posted September 1, 2014 Posted September 1, 2014 while its out its easy to strip it out for a cleanremove the small 10mm circlip in the end, then it will need a few good taps on the bench to get the partly seized inner piston/valve to move out enought to carefully grip it and pull the piston and seals out,give it a good clean and refit , if you operate it without the circlip get ready to catch it as it fires out the barrel. when its freeyou will see the piston and feel the thing move quite positively. dont be tempted to use the solenoid body to screw it back in , a thin 1"af spanner is needed. its easy to wreck the body pete Quote
nang Posted September 3, 2014 Author Posted September 3, 2014 Got the circlip out and the brass piece with O ring and spring. Should the steel piece also come out ?Thanks. Quote
Pete Lewis Posted September 4, 2014 Posted September 4, 2014 best way is look at the brilliant clues on the Buckeye sitehttp://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/jod/JOD1/JOD1.htmhttp://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/jod/JOD1/Theory13B.jpgyes it all needs to come out,, can be a tad tight if its all stuck up.Pete Quote
nang Posted September 5, 2014 Author Posted September 5, 2014 Thanks Pete, I'll have a try to get the whole thing apart and clean and replace O rings tomorrow .Tony. Quote
nang Posted September 5, 2014 Author Posted September 5, 2014 Got the solenoid apart with squirts of WD40 and a bit of persuasion !Next trick is to find some imperial O rings, everything today seems to be metric.For those contemplating O ring replacement you need:-2x 5/8" x 1/2 x 1/162x 9/32 x 5/32 x 1/161x 3/8 x1/4/ x 1/16.Tony. Quote
molten Posted September 21, 2014 Posted September 21, 2014 Very interested as I have exactly the same problem on my refurbished box.. Did the strip & clean sort the problem?Or was the problem with the O rings?I can hear the solenoid working on mine wondered if it was not quite operating far enough.I understand that the solenoid activates the o/d under oil pressure so should have correct pressure as oil is at max.Maybe the o-rings are a tad to small perhaps.Interested to lnow how you get yours fixed as mine will likely be same.ThanksScott Quote
nang Posted September 21, 2014 Author Posted September 21, 2014 Got mine apart and cleaned everything. The O rings were very brittle so replaced them all. Be careful when putting the shuttle back in, my solenoid body had quite a sharp edge where the large bore joined the small one, which can tear bits off the O rings. I used a drill (about 3/8") to lightly chamfer the edge and some grease. After I got the front end back together went for a short drive around the block and o/d worked although I have my suspicions about the switch. O/d didn't work previously. I've also changed the gearbox oil, removed and cleaned o/d filter etc. so not positive solenoid was the problem but think so.Tony. Quote
Pete Lewis Posted September 21, 2014 Posted September 21, 2014 mine was just having a mind of its own depending where the shuttle jammed itself, luckiy the o rings were all fine so a gentle clean with some brake cleaner removed the old lacquered oil deposits and returned the operation from a poor click and a slight nudge to firing the piston in a more aggressive click clack. guess the problem was due to being unsed for too many years then being forced into life, what you dont want is the shuttle holding open then going for reverse can be costly. Pete Quote
molten Posted September 21, 2014 Posted September 21, 2014 peterhlewis wrote: guess the problem was due to being unsed for too many years then being forced into life, Wondering if this is the problem with mine. Not been used for year or two but was rebuilt. Everything looks clean but just wondering if imperial o-rings were used on rebuild. Might just change them and see if it makes any difference. Quote
Pete Lewis Posted September 22, 2014 Posted September 22, 2014 the clues given on piston O rings is good, most OD parts suppliers dont list the J type O rings for the Piston only the ones that seal solenoid to case.dont think they expect you to delve a bit further than £95 for a solenoid ... often not needed Pete. Quote
molten Posted September 28, 2014 Posted September 28, 2014 Changes I rings and although solenoid is operating, the od still does not select. Beginning to suspect that something missing on od😩 Quote
nang Posted October 10, 2014 Author Posted October 10, 2014 Thanks everyone for the input, my O/D is now working perfectly. Just got to finish the rest of the car now. ;DTony. Quote
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