Replacing the GT6 fuse box with modern

[Paudman]

Hi y'all - this is a job I'm interested in doing to my Mk1, since the old fuse box keeps falling out of the rectangular slot it's meant to sit in.
I'd like to try a modern blade-fuse setup and am curious to know what other owners have used, in particular the size of blade fuses used per circuit. I'm averse to letting the smoke out of electrical units so basic advice would be most welcome.

[Velocita Rosso]

Do a search on the spitfire thread as there have been loads of articles and pictures on this same topic...............even in the latest CT mag

[John Bonnett]

490 wrote:

Hi y'all - this is a job I'm interested in doing to my Mk1, since the old fuse box keeps falling out of the rectangular slot it's meant to sit in.
I'd like to try a modern blade-fuse setup and am curious to know what other owners have used, in particular the size of blade fuses used per circuit. I'm averse to letting the smoke out of electrical units so basic advice would be most welcome.

I think it is a really good idea to replace the old fuse box and get rid of all the problems associated with it and the inevitable corroded contacts. At this stage it might be worth considering splitting up the feeds and doubling the number of fuses. This has many advantages the greatest of all being that you will avoid the risk of an electrical fire in the event of a major short. Fault finding is easier and if one fuse blows it is only one circuit down rather than almost everything.

Everything you need to do a really professional job is available from Autosparks and Vehicle Wiring Products.

[WIMPUS]

I've done this also ! also because i was putting some extra stuff in and didn't want to have fuses everywhere  :)

I done it like this ..

I've just put the wires from the old to the new fuse box , you could also wire them up in more fuses .. but i've kept the 3

Then all the rest is straight from the battery.
I will look for a photo of my fuse box  ;)

[Paudman]

3141 wrote:

At this stage it might be worth considering splitting up the feeds and doubling the number of fuses. This has many advantages the greatest of all being that you will avoid the risk of an electrical fire in the event of a major short. Fault finding is easier and if one fuse blows it is only one circuit down rather than almost everything.

Everything you need to do a really professional job is available from Autosparks and Vehicle Wiring Products.

Yes - that's something I had definitely thought of, so if you could let me know what went where and how you did it I'd be very grateful. No problem getting the parts I need, once I work out what I actually do need... and thanks wimpus, a photo would be excellent.

[WIMPUS]

I've put 2 4blade fuse boxes in and made a metal plate to surround it.

Now it's already full :-/ . So i bought a bigger one , just need to install it one day  :)

It's not so a clear picture, but you see it  :)

On a LHD car there is room , i think on a RHD car the extra bit at the battery box is next to it ..

[Paudman]

Some good posts on this, however 'putting all the switched through one box and all the unswitched through another' is a bit lean on info for me... most of them show the front of the box, and very swish it is too, without clearly showing what wires are placed where on the rear.... now while I have no fear of wiring, having replaced many a loom, I'm averse to closing my eyes and connecting the battery terminal with my fingers crossed, having already had one fire in the electrics due to a short and melting part of the loom a few years back. So: bear with me, but can any kind soul tell me, using a moderate number of fuses and not something that an RAF mechanic would scratch his head over - connect brown wire on one side to *** wire on the other and use a *** amp fuse, connect another brown wire on one side.... you get the idea! Be gentle with me! ;D

[John Bonnett]

490 wrote:

Some good posts on this, however 'putting all the switched through one box and all the unswitched through another' is a bit lean on info for me... most of them show the front of the box, and very swish it is too, without clearly showing what wires are placed where on the rear.... now while I have no fear of wiring, having replaced many a loom, I'm averse to closing my eyes and connecting the battery terminal with my fingers crossed, having already had one fire in the electrics due to a short and melting part of the loom a few years back. So: bear with me, but can any kind soul tell me, using a moderate number of fuses and not something that an RAF mechanic would scratch his head over - connect brown wire on one side to *** wire on the other and use a *** amp fuse, connect another brown wire on one side.... you get the idea! Be gentle with me! ;D

PM sent

[Nick Moore]

I used a fusebox from Bussman, bought on eBay. The bulkhead hole needed enlarging, but now it's in, it looks like it belongs there. It has 24 blade fuses, 12 on each bus. One bus is permanently live, for things like central locking, headlights, horn, and the other is live when the key is in the ignition. That's stuff like indicators, fuel pump, brake lights, fan, heater and the Megasquirt module. I split up a lot of circuits that were originally sharing fuses.

Hope that helps,
Nick