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overdrive help (urgent)

Davemate

By Davemate
in Drivetrain

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Davemate Mentor

Davemate

Posted
Posted

j type overdrive
i have droped the sump,removed the filter and removed the pressure relief thing
the bits ringed in red have not come out
how do i get them out
they needs to come out so i can change the o rings on it

Davemate Mentor

Davemate

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796 wrote:
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/jod/JOD1/JOD1.htm

good luck, easy really,
rgds Marcus


i cant see any thing about how to remove things(this is the info i have been looking at)

it just says "remove valve" it does not say how ,unless i missed it

as i need the car for work tomorrow  i have had to reasemble the overdrive without changing the o rings on the bit i could not get out, all the other o rings have been changed so when the car is off the axel stands in the morning i will find out if it works or not

the filter was quite clogged and the bit of the preasure valve i did get out was fairly dirty so fingers crossed

GT6 M Veteran

GT6 M

Posted
Posted

try a  valve sucky sucky lapping tool,
the suction cup bit will maybe pull it doon,
its only the resistance o the O rings that is holding it in place

Davemate Mentor

Davemate

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I did try a Bent hook pushed up the centre and I managed to get the hook locked,
and I did pull it quite hard !
If it does not work tomorrow I will think about pulling the box out
and do the job on a bench instead of crawling under the car
If that is the case it will have to wait a couple of weeks

piman Mentor

piman

Posted
Posted

Hello Dave,

hopefully it will work without removing it, as it is tight the 'O' rings are probably OK?
As you have managed to get a good grip with the bent wire, I can't think of anything else that will grip better.

Alec

Davemate Mentor

Davemate

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did not work  :(,
its tying to engage but it only stayes engaged for about 1 second,and thats when when i flick the switch to out
so its made no diference
flick on ---nothing
flick off ---engages for about 1 second
after a couple of miles --- flick on nothing---flick off nothing
looks i might need to have a proper look ---or send it somewhere for someone eles(who knows what to do) to have a look at

??????? !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

other jobs done yesterday on the herald,
spit anti roll bar fitted ---seems to handle a bit better (swing spring fitted months ago)
exhaust no blowing  :)

Pete Lewis Mentor

Pete Lewis

Posted
Posted

that sounds more electrical than hydaulic  , have you tested the basic circuitry
add a bulb in the sol feed to show its actually powered up when you think it is
just a thought   pete

Davemate Mentor

Davemate

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I made the loom myself, so I know it's an ignition feed, going to the inhibitor then
onto the switch then to the solenoid.
When the engine is off with third or forth selected
when the switch is flicked you can hear the solenoid clicking
whether it is working properly or not I have no idea
One would presume not !
at about �80 it's an expensive "let's see" if there turns out to be nothing wrong with it
Or is there something else I can try first
I will chuck a bulb in the loop just to check though

Simoneg Contributor

Simoneg

Posted
Posted

Are you sure the switch is OK?  I once had a gearstick mounted OD switch that appeared to click on, but actually made contact briefly only when switched off again.  Something to do with the internal toggle sticking.  Try by-passing the switch with a temporary alternative.  If it is faulty then a squirt electrical switch cleaner may help (Electrolube or similar).  

Simon

Davemate Mentor

Davemate

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I have given up using the gearknob switch as the wiring is a pain,even with one of bill's
gearstick looms as soon as I pushed the cap home the wires are rubbing on the centre hole
on the gear stick and caused a short,so I am useing a dash mounted switch at the moment.

I think I'll be giving overdrive spares at Coventry a ring tomorrow
as he is a very helpful chap !

JohnD Veteran

JohnD

Posted
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Keep the O/d control near you fingertips, by putting a switch and indicator light on the steering wheel.
Connect it with a length of 'curly-whirly' cable to avoid tangling.
Works for me!

See pic, left hand spoke of steering wheel.
Ignore the timer on the right hand spoke!
John

piman Mentor

piman

Posted
Posted

Hello Dave,

is it possible with a 'J' type to physically see if the solenoid is moving the actuator. I'm used to 'A' types and this is easily checked? If you can determin that it is physically moving then you need a gauge to check oil pressure?

Alec

Davemate Mentor

Davemate

Posted
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piman wrote:
Hello Dave,

is it possible with a 'J' type to physically see if the solenoid is moving the actuator. I'm used to 'A' types and this is easily checked? If you can determin that it is physically moving then you need a gauge to check oil pressure?

Alec


Whist the solenoid was out I did replace the o rings and when connected to the battery
the inner rod was moving.I need to check with a meter to see if it is pulling two amps
if not I believe it means it's knackered.
I am not good with electrickery but one of the things I have read is
the solenoid needs a 12v feed but it must also draw 2amps,not sure what that means
but I will check with a multi meter set to amps !

Davemate Mentor

Davemate

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john
I may well do something like a dash mounted switch for the occasional road use,then a plug in
extension to the steering wheel for track days and things
I was thinking of a two pin socket on the dash,with a bridging peice which could
be removed and a curly wire plugged in with a switch on the wheel
With the socket bridged the switch would work normally
Then plug the extension in, set the dash switch on then use the wheel switch to engage the overdrive
Hope I am makeing sence !

But first I need the damn thing to work !
Ps
  Any chance you can pm me a pic of your full dash

piman Mentor

piman

Posted
Posted

Hello Dave,

I really meant does the solenoid actually move the arm that operates the hydraulic circuit, i.e the solenoid is doing something inside the overdrive.
I don't know what current a 'J' type draws only that it doesn't need a relay as an 'A' type. What happens is that when initially energised the current is high and as long as the armature pulls fully home then it drops quickly to a running current. So with an ammeter you should see the surge then the reading should drop down to the say 2 amp you quote? If it doesn't it means the solenoid is not fully in so the mechanism inside the overdrive needs looking at/ adjusting?

Alec

Davemate Mentor

Davemate

Posted
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The solenoid seems to be two tubes the outer has some holes in it
the inner tube also has holes in it
The inner tube was moving,but wether it was enough I don't know

JohnD Veteran

JohnD

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Here's what Sb's dash looked like early on:
Toggle switch on wheel was an early experiment.  It was a bit flimsy, and the push-on, push-off switch is better, IMHO.  Needs an indicator lamp next to it, unless you can find a self-illuminated one.

Panel with the FIA cut-out includes ignition, fuel pumps and starter button.
Panel below was lights etc.
Panel to right was wipers, screen wash and brake cooling (water spray, never implemented).
Pod on top was rev limiter
Large orange side indicator was oil pressure warning repeater
Grey bracket on dash top was camera mount, also an early experiment, unacceptable to MSA scrutineers.
The boxing-in on the far side of the passenger footwell was to cover the water pipes to the rear radiator.
John

StagNL Rising Star

StagNL

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Two things I've experinced:
Gear lever switches can be faulty after short usage,
All the stuff you've taken off such as filters and pressure valves must be very clean.  Any small bit of foreign matter can cause unit to not engage.

Julian

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